BAirTH 

SCIENCES 

ItBRARV 


55th  Congress,  |  SENATE.  (  Document 

Sd  Session.       J  (No.  172. 


DEPARTMENT  OF  THE   INTERIOR 

UNITED  STATES  GEOLOGICAL  SURVEY 

CHARLES    D.   WALCOTT,   DIRECTOR 


MAPS  AND  DESCRIPTIONS 


OF  ROUTES  OF 


EXPLORATION   IN   ALASKA 


IN  1898 


WITH  GENERAL  INFORMATION  CONCERNING  THE  TERRITORY 


(ten  maps  in  accompanying  envelope) 


Prkpabkd  in  accordance  with  Pubuc  Resolution  No.  25  of  the  Fifty-fifth  Congress 
Third  Session,  approved  March  1,  1899 


PRINTED  IN  THE   ENQRAVING   AND  PRINTING   DIVISION   OF  THE 

UNITED  STATES  GEOLOGICAL  SURVEY 

WASHINGTON,  D.  C. 
1899 


rARTH 
UDilARlf 


Q-EQGRAPHY  BEPT . 


CONTENTS. 


Page. 

Summary  of  Plans  and  Results,  by  The  Director 11 

Part  I. — Special  Reports  of  Expeditions. 

Report  of  the  Sushitna  expedition,  by  Gr.  H.   Eldridge  and   Robert 

Muldrow 15 

General  topographic  features  of  the  route 15 

Geology 19 

rormations 19 

Granite 19 

Sushitna  slate  series 20 

Cantwell  conglomerate 20 

Kenai  series 20 

Recent  deposits 21 

Eruptives 21 

Structure 21 

Mineral  resources 23 

Gold 22 

Coal '.  22 

Possibilities  of  agriculture 24 

Clinaate 24 

Temperature  and  weather  observations  in  1898 25 

Weather  conditions  in  1897 25 

Routes  to  the  interior 26 

Magnetic  variations,  Sushitna  River,  1898 27 

Report  of  the  Kuskokwim  exjoedition,  by  J.  E.  Spurr  and  W.  S.  Post. .  28 

Itinerary 28 

Topography 29 

Cook  Inlet. 29 

Skwentna  region 30 

Kuskokwim  region 30 

Kanektok  region 31 

Togiak  region 31 

Nushagak  region 31 

Naknek  region 31 

Population 31 

Climate 32 

Vegetation  and  birds 33 

Game  and  fish 34 

Geology 34 

R6sum6 36 

Mineral  resources 36 

Land  and  water  routes 37 

( 
991165 


4  CONTKNTS. 

Page. 

Tablf  of  (listjincos  iiloii};  route  from  Tyoiiek  to  Kutinai 38 

Mn;;ii(>tic  variations,  soutliwcstcrn  Alaska.  IHllH 39 

Report    on    tlu"    rcjfion    Itctwccn    Hesurrcction    Hay  and    the   Tanana 

Kiver.  l>y  W.  ( '.  Mendenliall 40 

Int  rod  net  ion 40 

(itH);rniphy  and  topojcraphy 41 

('(K)k  Inlet  and  I'rince  William  JSound 41 

(leneral  toi)o;j:ra|)hy 41 

Routes 43 

Met liods  of  t  ravel 44 

Ueneral  j^eolo^fv 45 

Sunrise  series 45 

Atre 45 

Matanuska  series 46 

Age 46 

Greenstone  series 46 

Tanana  series 46 

Known  {jold  districts 47 

Tnrnajj:ain  Arm 47 

Matanuska  Valley 47 

(General  gravel  sheet 47 

Coal \ 48 

Timber  and  j^rass 48 

Game 49 

Climate 49 

Aprrieulture 50 

Inhabitants 50 

Report  on  Prinee  William  Sound  and  the  Copper  River  refjion,  by 

F.  C.  Schrader 51 

Itinerary 51 

Geography '. 53 

Pojiulation 52 

I'rince  William  Sound  natives 52 

Prince  William  Sound  whites 52 

( 'opper  River  natives 52 

Prospectors  and  explorers 53 

Climate 53 

Prince  William  Sound 53 

Valdez  sununit 54 

Copper  River  district 54 

Animal  life 54 

Kish 54 

(Quadrupeds 54 

Birds 54 

I  nsects 55 

Vegetation 55 

Prince  William  Sound 55 

Copper  River  district 55 

Topography 55 

Geology 57 

Orca  series 57 

Valdez  series 57 

Age  of  the  Valdez  and  Orca  series 57 


CONTENTS.  5 

Page. 

Copper  Mouiituiu  greenstone  or  aniphibolite-sehist 57 

Klutena  series 58 

Igneous  rocks 58 

Copper  River  silts 58 

Mineral  resources 59 

Copper 59 

Copjjer  Mountain  mine 59 

(jrladhaugh  Bay  mine 59 

Latouclie  and  Knights  islands 59 

Gold-bearing  quartz 60 

Placers 60 

Coal 61 

Routes  and  trails 61 

Table  of  approximate  distances  by  Gr lacier  trail 63 

Report  of  the  White  River-Tanana  expedition,  by  W.  J.  Peters  and 

Alfred  H.  Brooks 64 

Narrative 64 

Previous  explorations 65 

Geography 65 

Geology 67 

Nasina  series 67 

Basal  gneissoid  series 68 

Tanana  schists '. .  68 

Wellesley  formation 68 

Nilkoka  formation 68 

Younger  sedimentary  rocks 68 

Igneous  rocks 69 

Summary  of  the  bed  rock  geology 69 

Glacial  phenomena ; . . .  69 

Silts  and  gravels 69 

Volcanic  ash 69 

Mineral  resources 70 

Gold 70 

Copper 71 

Coal : 71 

Timber 71 

Game 71 

Climate 72 

Agriculture 73 

Routes  and  means  of  transportation 73 

White  River 72 

Trails  to  White  River 73 

Tanana  River 73 

Trails  to  the  Tanana 73 

Railway  routes 74 

Inhabitants 74 

Whites 74 

Indians 74 

Marks  and  monuments  along  the  route  of  travel 74 

Table  of  approximate  distances 75 

Magnetic  declinations 75 

Report  of  the  Fortymile  expedition,  by  E.  C.  Barnard 76 

Itinerary 76 


6  CONTENTS. 

Pack. 

Metlnxls  <»f  work 78 

Topojjnipliy 78 

Koiitivs 79 

Mt'tlioiis  of  travel 80 

I'opiilatioii 80 

Milling  ju'tivity 80 

(4ol(l 80 

Coal 81 

Soda  springs 81 

(Climate 81 

Timber 82 

Food  resources 82 

Part  II.— Gkxkral  Information  Concerning  the  Territory; 
BY  Geographical  Provinces. 

The  Yukon  di.strict,  by  Alfred  H.  Brooks 85 

Geography 85 

Limits  of  the  Yukon  drainage  basin 85 

Yukon  plateau 86 

Rivers  of  tlie  Y'ukon  Basin 86 

The  nuun  Yukon  River 87 

Koyukuk  River 87 

Tanana  River 88 

Porcupine  River 88 

Wliite  River 89 

Pelly  and  Lewes  rivers 89 

Geology 89 

Rock  formations 89 

Glaciation 91 

Recent  volcanic  activity 91 

Mineral  resources 91 

Gold 91 

Gold  Mountain 92 

Mynook  district 92 

Birch  Creek  district 92 

Seventymile  district    93 

Mission  Creek  district 93 

Fortymile  district  93 

Sixtymile  district 93 

Koyukuk  district 93 

Porcupine  River 94 

Klondike  di.strict 94 

Other  gold  di.stricts  of  British  Northwest  Territory 95 

Atiin  Lake  <listrict 95 

Dalton  trail  region 95 

Coal 95 

Timber 95 

Game 96 

Climate 96 

Routes  and  means  of  transportation 96 

Chilkoot  and  White  Pass  routes 97 

St.  Michael  route 97 


CONTENTS.  7 

Page. 

Daltou  trail 98 

Taku,  Stikine,  Edmonton,  and  Copper  River  routes 98 

Winter  travel 98 

Population 99 

Table  of  approximate  distances,  Lewes  and  Yukon  rivers 100 

The  extreme  southeastern  coast,  by  G.  H.  Eldridge 101 

The  coast  from  Lynn  Canal  to  Prince  WilHam  Sound,  by  G.  H.  Eldridge .  10:J 

Lituya  Bay 103 

Yakutat 10;j 

Chilkat  coal  held 103 

Kayak  and  Little  Kayak  islands 104 

Middleton  Island 104 

The  Prince  William  Sound  and  Copper  River  country,  by  F.  C.  Schrader.  105 

Topography 105 

Routes 105 

Explorations 106 

Native  population 107 

Prospectors  and  adventurers '. 107 

Resources 107 

Climate  and  vegetation : 108 

The  Kenai  Peninsula,  by  W.  C.  Mendenhall 109 

Topography 109 

Inhabitants 109 

Geology 110 

Gold 110 

Coal 110 

The  Sushitna  drainage  area,  by  G.  H.  Eldridge Ill 

Topography  and  general  features Ill 

Geology Ill 

Mineral  resources Ill 

Agriculture 112 

Routes 113 

The  Kadiak  Islands,  by  W.  C.  Mendenhall 113 

General  description 113 

Geology  and  mineral  resources 113 

The  Alaska  Peninsula  and  the  Aleutian  Islands,  by  W.  C.  Mendenhall . .  115 

Geography 115 

Geology 115 

Gold 116 

Coal 116 

Routes  across  the  peninsula 117 

Inhabitants  and  industries 117 

Villages 117 

Lakes  Iliamna  and  Clark,  by  J.  E.  Spurr 118 

The  Nushagak  River,  by  J.  E.  Spurr 119 

The  coast  from  Bristol  Bay  to  the  Yukon,  by  J.  E.  Spurr 130 

Topography 130 

Population 130 

Settlements 130 

Pribilof  Islands 131 

The  Kuskokwim  drainage  area,  by  J.  E.  Spurr 133 

Topography 123 

Routes 133 


8  CONTENTS. 

l'A(iE. 

Kxplorntions 122 

l'(>]>iilati(>ii 123 

Kosourci's 123 

From  tlio  Yukon  Mouth  to  Point  Barrow,  by  J.  E.  Spurr 124 

Topojrraphy 124 

Kxplorntions 124 

Norton  Sound 125 

St,  Lawrence  Island 125 

Cape  I'rince  of  Wales  and  vicinity 125 

Kot/.ebue  Sound 125 

Pt)int  Hope  to  Point  Barrow 126 

The  Kowak  River,  by  J.  K.  Spurr 127 

The  Noatak  River,  by  J.  E.  Spurr 129 

The  coast  from  Point  Harrow  to  the  Mackenzie,  by  Alfred  H.  Brooks.  130 

*  Part  III— Tabulated  Information. 

Meteorolotrical  tables 133 

Mean  temperature 133 

Extremes  of  temperature,  maximum 134 

Extremes  of  tenjperature,  minimum 134 

Precipitation 135 

Periods  ilurinjj:  which  certain  Alaskan  rivers  are  free  from  ice 136 

Report  of  Postal  Service  in  operation  in  Alaska,  March,  1S99 136 

Postal  routes 136 

Post-offices  established 137 

United  States  land  offices 138 

Gold  production  of  Alaska,  by  districts 138 

Ration  list  adopted  by  J.  E.  Spurr 138 


LIST   OF   MAPS. 


(J?i  separate  envelope.) 

1.  General  chart  of  Alaska.  * 

3.  Siishitna  River  and  adjacent  territory. 

3.  Head  waters  of  Skwentna  and  Kuskokwiin  rivers. 

4.  Middle  Kuskokwini  River,  south  to  Bristol  Bay  and  Togiak  River. 

5.  Lower  Kuskokwini  River  and  Kanektok  River. 

6.  Knik  Arm  to  Tanana  River  via  Matanuska  and  Delta  rivers.  ^ 

7.  Copper  River  and  Klutena  Lake.  ^ 

8.  Prince  William  Sound. 

9.  Tanana  and  White  rivers. 
10.  Fortymile  quadrangle. 

'Through  the  courtesy  of  Hon.  G.  D.  Meiklejohn,  Assistant  Secretary  of  War,  the  maps  pre- 
pared in  connection  with  the  expeditions  to  Alaska  under  Captains  Glenn  and  Abercrombie  are 
published  herewith. 


MAPS  im  DESCRIPTIONS  OF  ALASKA. 


SUMMAEY   OF  PLAINS  AND   RESULTS. 


By  The  Director. 


In  January,  1898,  Congress  provided  $20,000  for  surveys  in  Alaska 
by  the  United  States  Geological  Survey.  In  pursuance  of  this  legisla- 
tion several  expeditions  of  geologists  and  topographers  were  organized. 
The  parties  were  outfitted  in  Seattle,  Washington,  under  the  direction 
of  Mr.  G.  H.  Eldridge,  geologist,  and  sailed  northward  on  the  United 
States  gunboat  Wheeling  on  April  5,  The  officers  assigned  to  the 
expedition  were  Messrs.  G.  H.  Eldridge,  J.  E.  Spurr,  and  Alfred  H. 
Brooks,  geologists,  and  E.  C.  Barnard,  W.  J.  Peters,  W.  S.  Post,  and 
Eobert  Muldrow,  topographers. 

In  addition  to  these  assiguments,  Messrs.  W.  C.  Mendenhall  and 
F.  C.  Schrader,  geologists,  were,  upon  request  of  the  War  Depart- 
ment, detailed  to  the  military  parties  under  Captains  Glenn  and 
Abercrombie,  respectively. 

Upon  reaching  Skagway  two  parties  were  detached,  one  in  charge 
of  Mr.  Barnard  and  the  other  in  charge  of  Mr.  Peters.  These  parties, 
organized  under  the  general  direction  of  Mr.  Barnard,  successfully 
crossed  the  White  Pass.  They  were  to  descend  the  Yukon  and 
remain  together  until  the  mouth  of  the  White  River  was  reached,  at 
which  point  the  Peters  party,  with  Mr.  Alfred  H.  Brooks  as  geologist, 
was  to  euter  upon  a  special  field  of  work  —  the  exploration  of  the 
White  and  Tanana  river  systems.  The  Barnard  party  was  to  proceed 
to  the  Klondike  region  for  the  purpose  of  making  a  topographic  sur- 
vey of  the  district  adjacent  to  the  eastern  boundary  of  Alaska,  the 
one  hundred  and  forty- first  meridian.  It  was  planned  to  extend  the 
surveys  westward  from  the  Yukon  between  the  sixty- fourth  and 
sixty  fifth  parallels  of  latitude  and  to  include  the  Fortymile  district. 
The  map  to  be  made  by  Mr.  Barnard's  party  was  designed  to  serve  as 
a  basis  for  a  careful  geologic  investigation  of  the  region.  The  topo- 
graphic work  in  this  locality  was  to  be  on  the  scale  of  about  4  miles 


^'2  MAPS    AND    DESCKIPTIONS    OF    ALASKA. 

to  the  iuch,  ami,  in  addition,  it  was  proposed  to  map  on  the  scale  of  1 
mile  to  the  inch  a  small  area  inclndin*''  and  adjacent  to  the  new  mili- 
tary post  on,  the  Yilcon.   . 

Messrs.  iln  Id  row-  aud-Fost  were  attached  to  parties  under  the 
direction  of  Mi>ssit-r.  ^'ildridfce'  and  Spnrr,  ffcolo^ists,  respectively. 
After  paitinj;  froln  tire  Barnard  and  Peters  parties  at  tSkagway, 
Messi-s.  Hldridp:e  and  Spnrr  with  their  Jissociates  continned  in  the 
WhecVnifi  to  Cook  Inlet,  from  which  point  they  were  to  proceed  up 
the  Snshitna  to  abont  latitnde  iV.\°  40',  where  several  forks  of  the  river 
combine.  At  tliis  point  the  Kldridge  parly,  with  ^Ir.  INIuldrow  as 
topt>j;ra])hcr,  was  to  commence  the  exploration  of  the  northeast  por- 
tion of  the  Snshitna  drainage  basin,  and,  if  possible,  to  close  on  Mr. 
Peters's  snrvey  down  the  Tanaua.  The  other  part}',  under  Mr.  Spurr, 
with  ]\rr.  I'ost  as  topographer,  was  to  proceed  westward  across  the 
divide  between  the  Sushitna  and  the  Kuskokvvim  for  the  purpose  of 
surveying  the  head  waters  of  the  Kuskokwim  and  of  determining  the 
uavigabilitj'  of  that  stream  by  descending  to  the  usual  portage  to  the 
Lower  Yukon. 

All  the  parties  expected  to  rende/vons  at  St.  Michael  l)y  September 
15,  but  the  contingencies  of  exploration  in  remote  regions  could  not 
be  accurately  foreseen  and  the  chiefs  of  parties  were  at  liberty  to  pur- 
sue such  homeward  routes  as  might  seem  most  favorable  under  the 
conditions  existing  in  the  autumn.  The  Barnard  and  Peters  parties 
descended  the  Yukon  and  returned  from  St.  Michael;  the  Eldridge 
party  was  forced  to  return  to  Cook  Inlet  and  thence  to  Seattle;  and 
the  Spurr  party,  on  arriving  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kuskokwim,  found 
opportunity  for  more  extended  exploration,  and  returned  along  the 
coast  to  Katmai,  where  it  was  picked  up  by  the  Alaska  Commercial 
Company's  steamer  Dora. 

The  energj'  with  which  these  parties  pursued  the  explorations  and 
surveys  assigned  them  has  been  characteristic  of  American  explorers, 
but  is  none  the  less  creditable  to  these  men.  The  methods  with 
which  they  determined  the  positions  and  topography  of  their  routes 
of  travel,  and  the  accuracy  with  which  they  observed  the  geologic 
and  natnral-history  featnres  of  the  country  traversed,  combine  to 
render  the  results  far  more  valuable  than  has  usually  been  the  case 
under  similar  circumstances.  The  reports  which  follow  set  forth 
brietiy  the  principal  results  of  their  observations,  giving  in  untechnical 
language  useful  information  with  reference  to  the  geography,  geology, 
mineral  resources,  animals,  vegetation,  climate,  and  population  of  the 
districts  explored.     All  statements  have  been  condensed. 

To  supplement  the  original  information  comprised  in  these  several 
reports  a  compilation  of  all  available  authentic  data  has  been  made 
and  is  included  in  the  second  part  of  this  publication.  This  second 
part  relates  to  the  whole  of  Alaska,  which  is  divided  into  geographic 


SUMMARY    OF    PLANS    AND    RESULTS.  18 

proviuces,  and  each  proviuce  is  described  separately.  Finally,  a  series 
of  condensed  tables  of  important  information  has  been  added. 

The  work  of  1898  increased  much  the  definite  knowledge  of 
Alaska  which  had  been  obtained  by  explorations  scattered  over  the 
preceding  years.  The  map  of  that  portion  of  Alaska  lying  south 
of  the  Yukon  has  been  almost  completely  reconstructed.  Rivers  pre- 
viously known  have  been  for  the  first  time  accurately  surveyed,  and 
many  new  lakes  and  rivers  have  been  discovered.  The  movmtain 
systems  have  been  traced  out,  and  magnificent  ranges  12,000  to 
20,000  feet  in  altitude  have  been  found  where  previously  the  maps 
presented  blanks.  The  source  of  the  Kuskokwim  has  been  found 
far  distant  from  where  it  was  supposed  to  be,  in  high  mountains, 
where  a  swampy  plain  had  previously  been  believed  to  exist.  The 
phj'siography  of  southern  Alaska  has  been  independently  studied  and 
worked  out  by  each  party,  and  there  is  substantial  agreement  in  all 
the  principal  incidents  of  interpretation.  The  important  question  of 
general  glaciation  has  received  special  attention.  The  geologic  for- 
mations and  the  distribution  of  coal-bearing  and  known  gold-bearing- 
rocks  are  broadly  determined.  Much  valuable  information  has  been 
accuinulated  in  regard  to  the  distribution  of  timber  and  game,  with 
possibilities  of  agriculture  or  of  stock  raising,  and  in  regard  to  feasible 
routes  for  pack  trails,  wagon  roads,  or  railways,  by  which  the  country 
may  be  traversed  or  the  interior  reached. 

The  present  report  has  been  prepared  in  accordance  with  the  special 
act  of  Congress,  to  accompany  the  maps  of  the  several  routes  of  explor- 
ation and  the  revised  general  map  of  Alaska.  It  has  been  written  by 
the  several  geologists  and  topographers  of  the  expeditions,  and  the 
whole  has  been  edited  by  Mr.  Spurr.  Fuller  discussion  of  the  geology 
and  physical  geography  of  the  regions  visited  by  the  different  parties, 
with  details  of  scientific  and  economic  interest,  will  be  presented  in 
the  Twentieth  Annual  Report  of  the  Survey. 


PART   I.— SPECIAL   REPORTS   OF    EXPEDITIONS. 
REPORT  OF  THE  SUSHITNA   EXPEDITION/ 


By  G.  H.  Eldridgk  and  Robert  Muldrow. 


GENERAL  TOPOGRAPHIC  FEATURES  OF  THE  ROUTE. 

Cook  Inlet  is  a  structural  basin  of  vast  size,  open  to  the  North 
Pacific  at  its  southern  end.  At  present  the  sea  occupies  about  half 
the  total  area,  the  remaining  portion  having  been  gradually  filled 
and  elevated  until  it  now  forms  a  broad  valley  75  to  100  miles  wide 
by  150  to  175  miles  long.  The  inclosing  mountain  ranges  have  an 
intricate  and  rugged  topography  and  an  approximate  average  height 
of  8,000  to  10,000  feet,  but  they  are  sharply  saw-toothed  and  relieved 
by  numerous  peaks  12,000  to  20,000  feet  in  altitude.  The  loftiest 
and  most  rugged  mountains  are  those  constituting  the  Sushitna-Tanana 
divide;  they  include  the  highest  peak  on  the  North  American  conti- 
nent—  Mount  McKiuley,  20,464  feet  in  elevation  —  and  may  be  called 
the  Alaskan  Mountains.  West  of  Mount  McKinley,  in  the  same 
range,  are  two  peaks  closely  approximating  16,000  feet.  The  ranges 
which  lie  west  of  Cook  Inlet  and  the  Sushitna  Valley  resemble  the 
Alaskan  Mountains  in  ruggedness,  and  include  a  number  of  lofty 
peaks,  of  which  the  volcanoes  Redoubt  and  Iliamna,  11,000  and  12,068 
feet  high  respectively,  are  the  most  interesting.  East  of  the  Sushitna 
Valley  and  Cook  Inlet,  also,  the  mountain  ranges  have  great  rugged- 
ness, and  there  are  many  points  but  little  lower  than  those  in  the 
Alaskan  Mountains.  To  the  range  north  of  the  Kenai  Peninsula  the 
name  Talkeetna  may  be  applied.  In  all  these  ranges  the  crest  line  is 
saw-toothed,  while  the  slopes  are  cut  by  gorges  4,000  to  10,000  feet 
deep,  with  precipitous  walls,  and  their  upper  courses  glacier- filled. 
At  the  head  of  Cook  Inlet  and  west  of  the  mouth  of  the  Sushitna 
River  lies  Mount  Sushitna.  This  peak  is  4,280  feet  high,  forming  the 
southern  extremity  of  a  low  ridge  that  is  cut  by  the  Yeutna,  the  chief 
western  tributary  of  the  Sushitna,  a  short  distance  above  its  mouth. 

The  vast  watershed  inclosed  by  all  these  mountains  is  drained  by 
the  Sushitna  river  system.  What  is  locally  regarded  as  the  main 
branch  of  this  stream  rises  far  in  the  interior,  in  the  comparatively 
low  country  between  the  mountains  of  the  St.  Elias  and  Alaskan  sys- 
tems, and  has  a  course  very  irregular  but  in  the  main  southwest. 
About  SO  miles  from  the  inlet  it  receives  the  Chulitna,  and  from  this 
point  the  river  has  an  almost  due  south  course.     The  Chulitna  has 

'  See  map  No.  2,  in  accompanying  envelope. 
2-Alaska.  15 


16  MAPS    AND    DESCRIPTIONS    OF    ALASKA. 

iiiaiiN  forks  risiuf;  in  the  Alaskan  Mountains,  some  of  them  originating 
in  the  canyons  of  Mounl  iMcKinley  itself.  Both  the  main  river  and 
the  dnililna  carry  heavy  volumes  of  water,  each  stream  averaging 
perhaps  one-fourth  mile  in  widlh.  A  mile  below  the  Chulitna  the 
Sushitna  receives  from  the  northeast  the  Talkeetna,  a  tributary  of 
secondary  size  rising  in  the  Talkeetna  Mountains,  and  '20  miles  above 
the  mouth  of  the  Sushitna  the  Yentna  enters  from  the  northwest.  The 
last-named  stream  rises  in  the  mountains  forming  the  divide  between 
the  Sushitna  and  the  Kuskokwim,  and  is  approximately  150  miles 
long.  Data  relating  to  the  region  drained  by  the  Yentna  may  be 
found  in  the  accompanying  report  by  Messrs.  Spurr  and  Post  (p.  28) 
All  three  of  the  great  tributaries  of  the  Sushitna  carry  vast  amounts 
of  sediment,  derived  from  glaciers  and  from  the  banks,  which  are  con- 
stantly wearing  away.  Their  currents  are  between  4  and  5  miles  an 
hour,  and  their  main  channels  are  deep. 

The  valley  of  the  main  Sushitna  below  its  continence  with  the  Chu- 
litna merges  with  that  of  the  Yentna  and  forms  a  gently  undulating 
tract  of  country,  100  to  125  miles  broad,  which  rises  gradually  from 
4  or  5  feet  above  high  tide  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  to  300  to  400  feet 
at  the  border  of  the  foothills.  From  the  summit  of  Mount  Sushitna 
the  vallej'  appears  to  be  well  timbered  with  poplar,  spruce,  and  birch, 
the  latter  on  ridges  and  other  elevated  portions.  Meadow  and  swamp 
land  is  freely  interspersed  with  the  timbered  areas,  and  lakes  form  a 
conspicuous  feature.  At  the  periphery  of  the  valley  the  country  is 
generally  high  and  rolling,  in  some  localities  forming  foothills  to  the 
adjacent  ranges,  while  here  and  there  the  general  valley  itself  is  cut 
by  low  yet  conspicuous  ridges,  some  of  igneous  rock,  some  of  specially 
heavy  gravel  deposits,  and,  rarely,  some  of  sedimentary  rocks. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  Sushitna  is  a  large  delta  that  is  traversed  by 
three  or  four  channels  of  considerable  size,  of  which  the  westernmost  is 
used  by  Indians  and  traders  for  access  to  the  river,  since  it  is  deeper 
and  shorter  and  safer  of  approach  than  are  the  others.  The  delta 
above  the  general  tide  level  is  a  vast  body  of  marsh  land,  relieved 
along  the  channels  by  fringes  of  alder  and  poplar  and  in  the  upper 
portion  by  spruce.  As  the  distance  up  the  river  increases,  the  tim- 
ber, especially  spruce,  grows  thicker.  Between  the  delta  and  the 
mouth  of  the  Chulitna  the  Sushitna  maintains  a  width  of  one-half  to 
2  miles,  and  is  for  the  greater  portion  of  the  distance  studded  with 
islands,  though  there  are  occasional  stretches  where  the  stream  flows 
through  a  single  broad  and  deep  channel.  The  stage  of  the  water 
causes  marked  variation  in  the  relative  proportion  of  islands  and  bars, 
thus  seriously  affecting  the  ease  with  which  the  river  is  ascended, 
since,  on  account  of  the  current,  the  greater  portion  of  the  distance  has 
to  be  made  by  towing,  either  in  the  stream  or  along  the  main  shores. 
Minor  channels,  however,  frequently  enable  one  to  avoid  the  swifter 


REPORT    OF   THE    SUSHITNA    EXPEDITION.  17 

currents.  The  main  channel  is  generally  well  defined  and  of  consid- 
erable depth,  sufficient,  it  is  believed,  for  the  passage  at  all  times  of 
light-draft  stern- wheel  steamers.  The  banks  of  the  river  in  the  delta 
region  are  of  sand,  and  rise  but  5  or  6  feet  above  ordinary  water  level. 
With  an  occasional  exception  it  is  not  until  a  point  a  mile  or  two 
above  the  Yentna  is  reached  that  the  gravel  banks,  so  common  along 
the  river  above,  become  a  pronounced  feature.  From  this  point,  how- 
ever, these  banks  continue  quite  to  the  foothills,  varying  in  height 
from  25  to  200  feet.  There  are  usually  no  bottom  lands,  in  the  sense 
in  which  the  term  is  accepted  in  the  United  States,  along  either  the 
main  river  or  its  tributaries. 

From  5  to  10  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Chulitna  the  character 
of  the  main  Sushitna  Valley  changes;  it  now  lies  in  the  foothills,  and 
a  little  farther  up  is  inclosed  between  ridges  3,000  to  4,000  feet  high, 
which  separate  it  on  the  southeast  from  the  Talkeetna  and  on  the 
northwest  from  the  Chulitna.  The  stream  itself  runs  in  a  picturesque 
gorge  400  to  500  feet  deep,  which  has  been  cut  in  the  bottom  of  an 
earlier  valley.  Forty-five  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Chulitna, 
falls  and  rapids  are  reported  in  the  main  river,  which  prevent  boating 
both  upstream  and  downstream.  However,  for  a  distance  of  about 
25  miles  a  portage  may  be  made  over  the  highlands  on  the  northwest 
side  of  the  river,  and  boats  may  then  be  again  utilized  for  transporta- 
tion of  supplies  nearly  to  the  great  glaciers  at  the  head  of  the  stream. 
The  current  in  the  upper  river  is  much  swifter  than  in  the  lower. 

The  ancient  valley  of  the  Sushitna,  referred  to  above,  is  nearly 
closed  at  its  lower  end,  10  miles  above  the  Chulitna;  it  broadens  to  6 
or  8  miles  in  the  vicinity  of  Indian  Creek,  25  miles  farther  up,  and 
maintains  this  width  in  a  general  way  as  far  as  the  great  bend  in  the 
river  50  miles  above  the  Chulitna.  Beyond  this  it  is  said  to  further 
broaden  and  to  take  the  character  of  an  open  highland  country,  with 
mountains  here  and  there  about  its  periphery.  Although  this  early 
valley  of  the  Sushitna  shows  evidence  of  having  once  been  well  worn 
down,  nearly  to  base-level,  it  has  since  been  deeply  cut  by  mountain 
torrents  and  its  floor  has  been  rendered  uneven  by  erosion  of  the 
underlying  highly  folded  slates,  so  that  the  region  is  one  of  hills  and 
dales  beautified  by  growths  of  spruce  and  birch  and  interspersed  with 
open  grassy  or  moss-covered  parks  and  lakes  of  great  picturesqueness. 
The  timber  line  in  these  mountain  valleys  reaches  as  high  as  3,000 
feet  above  sea  level;  above  this  the  alder  growth  extends  for  500  or 
600  feet,  and  is  succeeded  finally  by  moss-covered  slopes  or  bare  rocks. 

The  general  valley  of  the  Chulitna  was  observed  from  the  range 
separating  it  from  the  Sushitna  Elver  at  a  point  opposite  the  mouth 
of  Indian  Creek,  the  distance  between  the  streams  here  being  about 
^5  miles.  The  course  of  the  main  Chulitna  is  a  little  west  of  south. 
It  receives  numerous  large  tributaries,  glacial  and  otherwise,  from  the 


18  MAPS    AND    DESCRIPTIONS    OK    ALASKA. 

iiKumtaiiis  to  tlif  wi'st.  while  I'nmi  the  east  there  enter  two  impor- 
tant hniiiclu's,  led  by  t<»rreiits  that  flow  from  icy  amphitheaters 
hij^h  in  the  mountains  on  this  side.  The  main  valley  lies  directly  at 
the  base  of  Mount  McKinley  and  the  peaks  northeast  of  it.  It  is  well 
timlKMed  and  watered,  and  there  appear  to  be  hundreds  of  acres  of 
meadow  and  ^ra.ss  laiuls  similar  to  those  in  the  upper  portion  of  the 
Sushitna.  At  the  head  the  Chulitna  has  several  prominent  forks, 
which  rise  far  back  in  the  raufje,  some  leading  to  passes  less  than 
4,000  feet  in  altitude.  Two  of  these  forks  were  ascended  last  season, 
and  the  passes  at  their  heads  crossed,  by  independent  parties  from  the 
Geological  Survey  and  the  Army.  The  Survey  party  czossed  at  the 
head  of  the  easternmost  fork,  finding  there  two  passes  to  the  waters  of 
the  Tanana,  about  a  mile  and  a  half  apart,  one  about  3,700  feet  in  alti- 
tude, the  other  4,200  feet.  The  lower  pass  lies  east  of  the  other,  with 
an  approach  of  gentle  grade  on  both  sides.  In  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  these  are  two  other  passes,  one  leading  from  what  is  probably  an 
upper  fork  of  the  Sushitna,  the  other  from  a  tributary  of  the  Chulitna 
next  west  of  that  ascended  by  the  Survey  party.  The  latter  pass  is  the 
lowest  of  the  four  aud  bears  a  small  lake  on  its  summit;  it  is  probably 
about  l>,?)(H)  feet  in  elevation  and  of  easy  approach.  The  Army  party, 
taken  from  a  detachment  of  the  Fourteenth  Infantry,  under  Captain 
Glenn,  aud  consisting  of  Sergeant  Yanert  and  a  private,  under  the 
pilotage  of  an  Indian  took  what  is  possibly  the  main  tributary  of  the 
Chulitna  and  crossed  the  range  at  a  point  perhaps  10  miles  west  of  the 
Survey  party's  route  by  a  pass  estimated  at  but  2,700  feet  elevation 
and  more  direct.  This  pass,  or  the  valley  lea<ling  north  from  it,  the 
Survey  party  saw  on  its  journey  toward  the  Tanana.  It  is  probable 
that  there  are  other  passes  to  the  east  of  the  foregoing,  and  probable 
also  to  the  west. 

The  tributary  of  the  Tanana  descended  by  the  Survey  party  is  prob- 
ably the  Cant  well  River.  Although  the  stream  was  not  followed  to 
the  mouth,  it  is  known  to  lie  considerably  to  the  west  of  that  descended 
by  the  main  Army  party,  which  was  identified  as  the  Delta  River. 
It  is  important  in  respect  to  size,  recei\  ing  within  the  range  many 
large  tribuUiries,  glacial  and  other.  For  a  distance  of  20  to  2.5  miles 
from  its  source  the  particular  branch  descended  by  the  Survey  party  is 
confined  to  a  narrow  and  tortuous  gorge,  when,  after  passing  through 
a  short  box-canyon,  it  enters  an  enormous  XE.-SW.  valley,  broad, 
well  timbered,  and  dotted  with  lakes.  This  valley  is  drained  by  two 
great  streams  from  opposite  directions,  which  in  their  forks  have  left 
a  high  triangular-shaped  mountain  mass,  each  stream  having  carved 
for  itself  a  deep  canyon  through  the  inclosing  ridge  on  the  northwest. 
Into  the  western  of  these  streams  Hows  the  tributary  descended  by 
the  Survey  part}'.  It  is  this  western  stream  also  which  was  descended, 
by  Sergeant  Yanert,  of  the  Glenn  party,  the  pass  at  the  head  being 


REPORT    OF   THE    SUSHITNA    EXPEDITION.  19 

reported  low  and  etisy,  with  a  distance  between  timber  of  but  3  or  4 
miles.  Both  the  east  and  the  west  forks  carry  heavy  sediments, 
derived  from  glaciers. 

About  40  miles  below  the  continence  of  the  two  forks  just  described, 
for  most  of  which  distance  the  stream  flows  through  a  gorge  with  lofty 
mountains  on  either  side,  there  enters  another  great  tributary  from 
the  east,  occupying  a  broad  open  valley  not  less  than  50  miles  in 
length  and  of  the  same  general  appearance  as  the  valleys  of  the  forks 
above.  This  lower  fork  is  also  a  glacier-fed  stream,  and  in  size  is  about 
equal  to  that  descended  by  the  Survey  party.  About  15  miles  below 
the  latter  confluence  the  river  passes  out  of  the  mountain  valley 
through  a  sharp  canj^on,  apparently  8  or  10  miles  in  length,  through 
which  it  was  believed  the  open  valley  of  the  Tanana  could  be  seen. 

GEOLOGY. 
FORMATIONS 

The  region  traversed  by  the  Survey  party  presents  for  examination 
a  half-dozen  formations  and  a  structure  broadly  simple  j'et  complex 
in  detail.  The  formations  include  granite,  which  is  perhaps  in  part 
basal;  schists  and  slates,  chloritic  and  other  varieties;  a  series  of  con- 
glomerates, coarse  sandstones,  and  shales,  with  coal  seams,  belonging 
to  the  Keuai  series;  and  glacial  drift — gravels,  sands,  and  clays  or 
muds.  The  ages  of  the  formations  are  undetermined,  except  the 
Kenai,  which  has  been  found  to  be  Eocene  or  Oligocene. 

Granite. — This  is  apparently  of  the  same  nature  as  that  found  else- 
where in  Alaska.  It  is  bright  gray,  moderately  coarse  in  texture, 
and  is  either  massive  or  of  a  heavy  gneissic  structure.  Its  chief  com- 
ponents are  feldspar,  quartz,  and  biotite,  with  occasional  hornblende. 

The  gi  eatest  body  encountered  was  that  of  Mount  Sushitna,  whose 
entire  mass  above  an  altitude  of  1,200  feet  is  of  this  rock;  below 
this  altitude  no  outcrops  were  seen.  From  the  peak  granite  appears 
to  form  the  core  of  a  ridge  which  extends  northwestward.  A  second 
locality  is  a  small  faulted  area  on  the  south  side  of  the  main  fork  of 
the  Sushitna,  about  18  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Chulitna.  The 
granite  here  has  a  prominent  gneissoid  structure.  A  fault  trending 
Nl/V.-SE.,  and  with  a  throw  of  possibly  1,000  feet,  has  uplifted  the 
granite  on  the  northeast  and  brought  it  against  slates  on  the  south- 
west. To  the  northeast  the  granite  rapidly  passes  beneath  the  slates 
which  constitute  the  succeeding  formation.  A  third  granite  mass  is 
exposed  a  short  distance  above  the  last  locality,  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  river,  forming  the  core  of  the  ridge  between  the  Chulitna  and 
the  Sushitna  and  extending,  with  occasional  interruptions,  nearly  to 
the  head  of  Indian  Creek.  At  the  base  of  the  ridge,  on  the  south- 
eastern side,  it  is  fringed  by  the  quartzites  and  slates  of  the  period 
next  younger  in  the  field  explored.     Small  remnants  of  the  latter 


20  MAPS    AND    DESCRIPTIONS    OF    ALASKA. 

rocks  are  also  to  be  found  at  several  points  along  the  crest  of  this 
ridf^o,  and  locally  the  s(Mies  may  extend  (juite  over  the  summit. 
Gnmile  also  oecurs  on  some  of  the  tributai-ies  of  the  Chulitna,  but  in 
comparatively  small  bodies;  it  was  also  found  in  isolated  patches  north 
of  the  divide. 

Sitsliittia  shite  series. — Slates  constitute  one  of  the  most  important 
of  the  formations  encountered.  They  are  quartzitic  in  nature,  vary- 
ing in  the  coarseness  of  their  material  from  fine  to  granular.  The 
entire  series  has  been  extremely  sheared  and  the  sand  grains  have 
been  crushed,  producing  thus  the  schistose  or  slaty  structure.  Mr. 
Whitman  Cross,  of  the  Geological  Survey,  examined  the  rock  micro- 
scopically and  found  no  grains  referable  to  igneous  rock,  in  spite  of  the 
impression  from  megascopic  examination  that  the  rocks  were  sheared 
eruptives.  A  feature  of  the  formation  in  localities  where  great  crum- 
pling of  the  strata  has  taken  place  is  the  presence  of  quartz  seams  in 
large  numbers,  from  a  half  inch  to  2  feet  thick,  reticulating  the 
exposed  surfaces  with  considerable  intricacy.  Such  seams  often  show 
mineralization  with  sulphides  of  iron,  and  it  is  believed  that  they 
constitute  the  source  of  much  of  the  gold  found  in  the  bars  of  the 
Sushitna  and  elsewhere  where  the  slate  series  is  present.  The  thick- 
ness of  these  slates  it  was  impossible  to  estimate,  but  it  is  believed  to 
be  several  thousand  feet.  The  series  constitutes  the  main  formation 
of  the  Alaskan  Mountains,  where  these  w^ere  examined.  The  first 
outcrop  in  ascending  the  main  Sushitna  occurs  about  15  miles  above 
the  mouth  of  the  Chulitna,  and  from  this  point  the  formation  extends 
in  an  unbroken  belt  to  a  little  above  the  falls,  55  miles  beyond.  The 
general  trend  of  the  series  of  slates  east  of  the  Sushitna  River  is  par- 
allel with  that  of  the  mountain  range  on  that  side  —  i.  e.,  NNW.-SSE. 
West  of  the  Sushitna  its  trend  is  like  that  of  the  Alaskan  Mountains, 
changing  to  nearly  E.-W.  The  general  dip  in  both  instances  is  away 
from  the  range  axis. 

North  of  the  Sushitna-Tanana  divide  the  slates  are  quite  as  fully 
developed  as  on  the  south,  and  again  their  prevailing  dip  is  away 
from  the  mountains.  They  maintain  the  same  features  of  composition, 
Bchistosity,  cleavage,  and  quartz  veinings,  more  or  less  mineralized, 
as  south  of  the  range.  The  total  width  of  exposure  of  this  terrane  on 
both  sides  of  the  divide  must  be  nearly  80  miles. 

Cantwell  conglovierate. — This  is  a  series  of  conglomerates  and  coarse 
sandstones  which  was  encountered  in  the  banks  of  the  Cantwell  River 
10  or  15  miles  above  the  lower  fork.  The  matrix  in  the  conglomerate 
is  quartz;  the  pebbles  are  dark  slate.  The  relations  of  these  beds  to 
the  formations  of  adjacent  regions  were  not  discovered. 

Kenai  series. — This  embraces  a  succession  of  soft,  light-gray  sand- 
stones and  mud  shales  with  interlaid  coal  seams  and,  according  to 
reports  of  other  observers,  conglomerates.      The  age  of  the  Kenai 


REPORT    OF   THE    SUSIIITNA    EXPEDITION.  21 

series  has  been  determined  to  be  upper  Eocene.  From  the  existence 
of  this  formation  along  the  eastern  shore  of  Cook  Inlet,  its  presence 
from  a  point  several  miles  southwest  of  Tyonek  to  the  vicinity  of  Mount 
Sushi tua,  its  recurrence  on  the  Sushitna  River,  first  about  20  miles 
from  the  mouth  and  again  about  87  miles  up,  and  still  again  on  the 
Talkeetna,  it  seems  possible  that  much  of  the  Cook  Inlet  Basin,  both 
above  and  below  water,  is  underlain  by  the  formation,  its  periphery 
being  defined  by  the  base  of  the  surrounding  ranges.  Each  of  the 
above  localities  shows  coal  seams,  and  may  therefore  be  of  some 
importance  in  the  future.  The  beds  of  the  formation  are  rarely  hori- 
zontal; in  some  localities  they  are  inclined  at  as  high  an  angle  as  45°, 
but  as  a  rule  their  undulations  are  more  gentle. 

Recent  deposits. — The  recent  deposits  of  the  Sushitna  Valley  and 
adjacent  shores  of  the  inlet  are  gravels,  sands,  and  clays,  laid  down 
in  two  distinct  periods.  Belonging  to  the  earlier  is  a  blue-gray  clay 
locally  rich  in  small  bowlders  of  materials  derived  from  the  encircling 
ranges — granite,  slate,  and  the  various  eruptives — together  with 
coal  derived  from  the  Kenai  formation.  In  the  later  period  were 
laid  down,  unconformably  upon  the  foregoing,  coarse,  loosely  cemented 
gravels  having  a  sand  matrix  which  in  some  instances  so  prevailed 
that  the  deposit  became  a  pure  but  soft  and  friable  sandstone.  This 
latter  series  of  gravels  shows  a  varying  thickness  up  to  200  or  300 
feet;  the  average  thickness  of  the  lower  blue  clay  formation  could 
not,  however,  be  determined,  as  its  base  usually  lay  below  the  water 
level,  bi;it  30  to  40  feet  have  been  observed  in  some  localities. 

Eruptives. — Rocks  of  this  class  occur  at  various  points  in  the  Sushitna 
and  Cantwell  valleys  and  their  adjoining  mountain  ranges. 

STRUCTURE. 

The  structural  features  of  the  Sushitna  Valley  and  its  inclosing 
ranges  could  be  gathered  only  so  far  as  the  route  of  travel  and  the 
allotted  time  permitted.  In  general,  however,  the  valley  appeared  to 
be  a  syncline  and  the  adjoining  mountains  anticlines,  modified  by 
local  folds  of  secondary  nature.  The  Talkeetna  and  Tordrillo  ranges 
were  not  visited  and  may  possibly  be  far  more  complex  than  this. 
The  Alaskan  Mountains,  where  crossed,  are  unquestionably  of  this 
structure;  here  the  slates  which  enter  so  largely  into  its  composition 
are  thrown  into  a  lofty  anticline,  the  steeper  side  to  the  south,  the 
axis  ENE.-WSW.  In  the  transverse  section  of  the  range  many  minor 
secondary  folds  were  encountered,  affecting  seriously  the  local  strikes 
and  dips  of  beds. 

As  an  instance  of  secondary  folding,  the  ridge  between  the  Sushitna 
and  the  Chulitna  may  be  taken.  It  is  distinctly  anticlinal  in  struc- 
ture, with  a  trend  IsTNE.-SSW.,  the  granite  core  being  fringed  with 
slates.     To  the  south  it  rises  gradually  from  the  general  valley  of  the 


22  MAPS    AND    DESCRII»TIONS    OF    ALASKA. 

Sushitna,  and  to  the  north  it  sinks  beneiith  the  Upper  Chulitua  Val- 
ley. North  of  the  divide  secondary  folding;  wsia  again  a  feature  at 
several  points,  notably  in  the  vicinity  of  the  continence  of  the  upper 
forks. 

MIM;U.\I,    KIOSOIKCKS. 

The  nuneral  resources  of  the  region  traversed,  as  at  present  known, 
are  gold  and  coal. 

Gold. — The  gold  thus  far  found  is  all  in  placers.  The  bars  of  the 
Sushitna  Kiver  alfordcd  a  few  fine  colors  wherever  a  pan  was  taken, 
but  in  no  instance  was  the  quantity  of  economic  importance.  A  still 
smaller  amount  of  gold  was  found  in  the  younger  gravels  in  the  banks 
of  the  Sushitna,  and  again  in  the  same  beds  along  the  shores  of  Cook 
Inlet.  In  the  latter  locality  attempts  have  been  made  to  wash  the 
gravels,  but  apparently  without  success.  In  the  torrential  streams 
which  feed  the  I'pper  Sushitna  coarser  gold  was  found  in  promising 
(juautity,  especially  at  one  or  two  prospects  in  a  run  entering  the  river 
from  the  east  a  few  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Indian  Creek.  The  gold 
thus  found  is  evidently  derived  from  the  <juartz  seams  which  so  intri- 
cately reticulate  the  schist  series  in  the  localities  where  special  crum- 
pling of  the  strata  has  taken  place.  The  seams  are  in  many  instances 
charged  with  pyrite,  some  of  which,  on  assay,  has  been  found  slightly 
auriferous,  yet  none  of  the  quartz  panned  showed  gold. 

Gold  was  found  again  in  placers  on  the  Chinaldna,  a  tributary  of 
the  Talkeetna,  in  the  same  belt  of  schists  from  which  it  was  probably 
derived  on  the  Sushitna.  It  is  reported  that  the  slates  of  the  Upper 
Sushitna  resemble  those  in  the  vicinity  of  Turnagain  Arm,  in  the 
streams  cutting  which  very  profitable  placers  have  been  worked. 

North  of  the  Sushitna-Tanana  divide  prospecting  was  not  attempted, 
but  the  presence  of  the  slates,  together  with  the  mineralized  quartz 
seams,  argues  in  favor  of  the  presence  of  gold. 

Coal. — The  coal  of  Cook  Inlet  and  the  Sushitna  drainage  system 
occurs  in  the  Kenai  formation.  On  the  route  of  the  Survey  party 
three  areas  of  outcrop  were  encountered:  one  at  Tyonek,  on  the  west 
shore  of  Cook  Inlet;  a  second  bordering  the  Sushitna  2<>  miles  above 
its  mouth,  and  a  third  on  the  main  fork  of  the  Sushitna  87  miles 
above  its  mouth .  The  Tyonek  field  is  the  easiest  of  access,  and  its 
outcrops  have  for  some  time  afforded  coal  for  use  in  a  small  local 
steamer  and  for  domestic  purposes  at  the  agency  of  the  Alaska  Com- 
mercial Company  at  this  point.  The  area  of  this  field  was  not  inves- 
tigated, but  from  in<lependent  accounts  by  prospectors  and  Indians  it 
is  inferred  that  it  extends  for  several  miles  inland  and  at  least  as  far 
north  as  the  Theodore  River;  outcrops  are  reported  on  this  stream  and 
on  the  Beluga  and  the  Chulitna  to  the  south  of  it.  This  would  make  a 
length  for  the  field  on  the  strike  of  approximately  30  miles,  with 
a  width  as  shown  at  the  beach  of  about  4  miles.    The  strata  of  this 


REPORT    OF   THE    SUSHITNA    EXPEDITION. 


23 


field,  as  exposed  along  the  shores  of  the  inlet,  dip  about  ^^5°  SE.  The 
seams  vary  in  thickness  from  a  few  inches  to  16  feet,  interrupted, 
however,  in  their  solidity  by  frec^ueut  clay  partings  and  layers  of  coal 
of  lower  grade  than  the  average. 

The  outcrop  of  the  coal  measures  of  the  Kenai,  20  miles  up  the 
Sushitua,  lies  along  the  east  bank  of  the  stream  just  below  the  Yentua, 
Only  one  or  two  narrow  seams  of  coal  were  found,  however,  hardly 
more  than  indicating  the  presence  of  the  measures.  What  the  held 
might  develop  could  be  determined  only  by  boring  or  other  deep 
prospecting. 

The  third  field  of  coal  extends  along  the  main  river  from  a  point  5 
or  6  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Chulitna  to  one  8  or  10  miles  above. 
The  strata  of  the  Kenai  here  form  bluffs  100  to  300  feet  high,  A 
number  of  coal  seams  appear  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  but  none  over 
6  feet  thick  were  observed. 

Xorth  of  the  divide,  on  the  lowest  tributary  of  the  Cantwell 
reached  —  that  from  which  the  partj"  retraced  their  steps  —  there  is 
an  area  of  strata  which  resemble  the  Kenai  formation  and  which  carry 
a  few  very  thin  coal  seams.  The  extent  of  the  area  was  not  deter- 
mined, but  from  outcrops  at  a  distance  it  seemed  moderately  large. 

The  coal  of  the  foregoiug  fields  is  all  of  the  same  nature,  a  very  low- 
grade  lignite.  In  appearance  it  is  often  hardly  more  than  a  com- 
pressed mass  of  carbonized  wood,  in  which  it  is  sometimes  possible  to 
pull  from  a  long  stem  slivers  like  those  split  from  a  natural  tree-trunk. 
Stumps  are  frequently  found  in  the  beds,  standing  vertical  to  the 
layers.  The  color  of  the  coal  is  black  to  brown,  with  a  brown  streak. 
Among  the  first  impressions  one  gains  on  seeing  these  coal  beds  is  a 
sense  of  their  youth,  and  it  is  questionable  if  a  younger  example  of 
the  mineral  can  be  found  anywhere  except  in  peat  bogs  in  transition 
to  coal.    The  following  analyses  illustrate  the  character  of  the  coal: 

Analyses  of  coal  from  the  vicinity  of  Tyonek. 


;          No.  1. 

No.  2. 

No.  3. 

No.  4. 

1 

Moisture 

5.41 

9.07 

9.47 

9.44 

Volatile  matter 

65.13 

49.41 

58.53 

48.75 

Fixed  carbon 

37.60 

30.84 

31.66 

33.56 

Ash 

Total 

1.86 

10.68 

5.34 

8.25 

100.00 
.26 

100.00 
41 

100.00 
.36 

100.00 
.49 

Sulphur 

Coke 

none 

none 

none 

none 

No.  1.  Portion  of  a  vein  crossing:  beach  4  miles  west  of  Tyonek.    Wood  coal.    Selected. 
No.  2.  Portion  of  a  vein  crossing  beach  3J  miles  west  of  Tyonek.    Coal.    From  best  portions  of 
three  or  four  different  veins. 


24 


MAPS    AND    DESCRIPTIONS    OF    ALASKA. 


No.  3.     Portion  of  a  vein  crowiiiff  beach  aj  iiiilcs  west  of  Tyonek,  tla-  (li-st  west  of  tlie  village. 

Coal.    RopiYwiitiiiK  a  layer  1}  feet  thick  in  a  12-foot  vein. 
No.  -J.  Portion  of  a  vein  fi  miles  west  of  Tyonek,  but  from  a  pile  at  Tyonek  stored  for  use  on  the 

snuill  steamer  Perry,  plyinK  on  the  waters  of  Cook  Inlet. 

For  comparison  there  are  added  two  analyses  of  the  coal  at  Kache- 
mak  Bay,  which  is  of  the  same  formation  as  the  coals  herein  discussed. 

Analyses  of  coal  from  Kachemdk  Bay. 


Per  cent. 

Per  cent. 

Moisture 

12.64 
43.36 

37.14 
6.86 

11.72 

46.50 

34.64 

7.14 

100.00 

Volatile  matter  not  moisture 

Coke 

Ash 

Total 

100.00 

POSSIBILITIES  OF  AGRICULTURE . 

Besides  the  mineral  resources  of  the  region  under  discussion,  there 
are  possibilities  for  extensive  agricultural  interests.  In  the  Sushitna 
Valley,  which  from  its  position  near  the  coast  would  be  more  adapted 
climatically  for  agricultural  pursuits  than  the  interior,  native 
grasses — the  blue-stem  of  the  northern  United  States  and  others — 
grow  profusely  in  many  localities.  There  are  rich  meadows  for 
native  hay,  and  among  the  heavier  plants  the  lupines  are  conspicuous. 
At  Tyonek  rye  and  oats  have  grown  to  full  heads  the  last  season,  the 
grains  having  been  dropped  along  the  gravelly  beach  by  prospectors 
early  in  May;  here  also,  and  at  the  Sushitna  Station,  the  agents  of  the 
Alaska  Commercial  Company  and  the  Indians  raise  annually  excellent 
Irish  potatoes,  peas,  turnips,  beets,  lettuce,  and  radishes.  In  the 
wilds  of  the  valleys  and  mountain  sides  berries  abound,  including 
cranberries  (high  and  low  bush),  the  salmonberry  (a  berry  resembling 
a  dewberry  in  size  and  shape),  blueberries,  mossberries,  bearberries, 
and  currants,  almost  all  of  delicious  flavor.  The  soils  of  the  valleys 
are  rich  in  loam  and  decayed  vegetable  matter,  extending  to  depths  of 
4  to  10  feet.  Marshes  and  swamps  are  susceptible  to  drainage,  while 
the  higher  timbered  areas  are  dry.  Although  the  season  as  a  whole 
is  limited  in  length,  it  is  to  be  borne  in  mind  that  by  reason  of  the 
high  altitude  the  summer  days  are  very  long  and  the  rapidity  of 
growth  is  marvelous. 

CLIMATE. 

The  following  tables  will  indicate  the  climatic  conditions  of  the 
region  traversed. 


REPORT    OF   THE    SUSHITNA    EXPEDITION.  25 

Temperature  and  weather  observations  in  the  Sushitna  Basin  in  1898. 


Date. 


May  11-14 

May  15-21 

May         23-28 
May  28-June  1 


June 
June 
June 
June 
June 
July 
July 

July 


2-3 

4-9 

10-16 

17-23 

24-ao 

1-7 
8-16 

17-22 


July  23-25 

July  26- Aug.  3 

August      4-13 

August    13-17 

August    18-27 

Aug.  28-Sep.  5 
Sept.  6-15 

Sept.         16-24 


Place. 


Mouth  Sushitna  River 

Do 

Mouth  Yentna  River 

45  miles  N.  of  Cook  Inlet. . 


57  miles  N.  of  Cook  Inlet. . . 
65  miles  N.  of  Cook  Inlet. . . 
75  miles  N.  of  Cook  Inlet. . . 
90  miles  N.  of  Cook  Inlet. . . 
110  miles  N.  of  Cook  Inlet. . 
'Sushitna  River,  mouth  of 

Indian  Creek 
«7  miles  NE.  of  mouth  of 
Indian  Creek 


=10  miles  NE.  of  mouth  of 

Indian  Creek 
*15  miles  NE.  of  mouth  of 

Indian  Creek 
«18  miles  NE.  of  mouth  of 

Indian  Creek 
En    route:    Indian    Creek 
nearly  to  Tanana 

Return  to  Tyonek 

Tyonek 

Do 


45.5 
46.3 
51.0 
52.0 


56.5 
67.0 
59.0 
59.3 
56.2 
63.6 

58.7 


53.7 

55.4 

50.2 

49.2 

49.5 
50.3 
49.0 


Remarks  on  weather,  by  days. 


*2  cloudy,  1  fair,  1  light  rain. 

3  cloudy,  4  clear. 

2  clear,  4  cloudy,  1  rain. 

1  rain,  4  clear. 

2  clear. 

1  clear,  5  cloudy. 

6  clear,  1  rain. 

2  showery,  2  clear,  3  cloudy. 

1  rain,  5  cloudy,  1  clear. 

2  rain,  2  cloudy,  3  clear. 

3  ram,  2  cloudy,  4  clear. 

4  rain,  2  cloudy. 

1  smoky,  1  rain,  1  cloudy. 
8  rain,  1  cloudy. 

4   rain,  5   cloudy   and   partly 
cloudy. 

4  rain,  1  cloudy. 

2  rain,  5  cloudy,  3  clear. 

7  rain,  2  clear. 

5  rain,  5  clear. 

1  rain,  7  clear,  1  cloudy. 


^Elevation  700  feet.     "Elevation  1,900  feet.     ^Elevation  2,000  feet.    "Elevation  2,100  feet.     =Eleva- 
tlon  2,500  feet.    *0n  cloudy  days  the  mists  rarely  rose  much  above  the  foothills. 

The  precipitation  in  1898,  May  to  September,  is  said  to  have  been 
by  far  the  greatest  within  the  memory  of  the  oldest  Indian.  In  1897, 
the  data  for  which  have  been  furnished  by  Mr.  W.  G.  Jack,  a  pros- 
pector, the  precipitation  is  regarded  as  more  nearly  the  average. 

Weather  conditions  in  the  Sushitna  Basin  in  1897 . 


Date. 


April  2 
April  3 
April  4 
April  5 
April  6 
April  7-9 
April  10 
April  11 
April  12-13 
April  14 
April  15 
April  16 
April  17 
April  18 
April  19 
April  20-23 
April  24-25 
April  26-30 
May  1 

May  2-6 
May     7-11 

May  12 
May  13 
May  14-17 
May  18 
May        19 


Place. 


Tyonek 

En  route  up  Sushitna  River , 

12  miles  N.  of  Cook  Inlet 

En  route  up  river 

Sushitna  Station,  20  miles  up  river . . 

En  route  up  river 

Do 

-  97  miles  up  river 

-  En  route  up  river 

Sushitna  River,  mouth  Indian  Creek 
Portage  Creek 


■  Portage  Creek  to  Devil  Creek;  portage. 


Devil  Creek  and  vicinity,  on  Sushitna 
River 


Do 


Vicinity  of  Devil  Creek.    River  starts 
breaking  up. 


Weather. 


Clear. 

Do. 

Do. 

Do. 

Cloudy. 

Do. 
Rain  a.  m. 

I  Snow  and  rain  all  day. 
'  Do. 

'Cloudy. 
Rain. 

Snow;  clear. 
.Cloudy;  cold. 
Clear. 

Do. 
'Clear. 
Showers. 
Clear. 

Rain  and  snow. 
[Clear. 

Do. 
r  Snow,  3  inches. 
Rain. 
I  Clear. 
[Cloudy;  rain. 

Clear  and  cold,  J  inch  ice. 


MAPS    AND    DESCRII»TIONS    OK    ALASKA. 
Weather  conditions  in  the  Sns/iiind  lUi.sin  in  ISIH — ('outinued. 


Dat. 


Mnv  dV-r. 

Mav  ill 

Mav  er  "JS 

Mav  -nt-Sii 

May  81 


June 
June 
June 


June  4-5 

June  (5 

June  7 

June  ^^) 


Jiilv  \-i 

Julv  :{ 

July  4 

July  5 

July  6 

Julv  7 

July  8 

Julv  i>-10 

July  11-12 

July  13 

July  14 

July  15 

July  1() 

July  17-20 


Julv 
July 

July 
July 
July 
Aug. 
Aug. 


31 
l-o 
6 
Aug.  7-10 
Aug.  11 
Aug.  12 
Aug.  13-15 
Aug.        16 

Aug.  17-18 
Aug.        19 

Aug.     ao 

Aug.       21 


Wetither. 


Vicinity  of  Devil  Creek 


Startfil  up  river  in  boats. 


I 

!-  En  route. 


Independence  Creek. . 


•En  route. 


Mouth  Lake  Fork 

Head  of  boating  on  26th. 


Reached  head  of  river,  4  miles  above 

boating.    This  below  glaciers 

Start  back  down  river 

Clepser  Creek 

Lake  Fork 

Devil  Creek 

'-  Devil  Creek  to  Portage  Creek;  portage. . 

Sushitna  River,  mouth  Portage  Creek. . . 
(  Vicinity  of  Portape  Creek.  On  loth 
)"     started  tlown  river 

Sushitna  Station,  20  miles  N.  of  Cook 
Inlet 

On  18th  mouth  of  river 

En  route  southward 

Ladds  Station 

Tyonek 


(■  Clear. 

Shower ;  clear. 
I  Clear. 

;  Shower ;  clear. 
;  Hain. 
I  Cloudy. 
(^  Showers. 

Clear. 
:  Clear. 
I  Shower ;  clear. 

Cloudy. 
I  Clear,  with  occasional  lijjht  showers. 
I    Lightning  on  14th  at  Buckley  Creek. 
I  Clear. 
I  Rain. 

Clear. 

Cloudy:  warm. 

Rain. ' 

Cloudy. 
'  Rain. 

(Jlear  and  cool.. 
,  Rain. 
!  Clear. 
I  Cloudy. 

Cloudy  and  shower. 

Clear. 

Clear,  with  occasional  showers  each 
day. 

Rain. 

Clear. 
Do. 
Do. 
Do. 
Clear,  with  occasional  showers. 
>  Rain. 

I  Clear,  with  occasional  showers. 
Clear, 
t         Do. 
I  Cloudy. 

Do. 
Clear. 

Do. 

Do. 
Cloudy;  rain. 


KOUTES   TO   THE    INTERIOR. 

There  are  several  routes  from  Cook  Inlet  to  the  interior  of  Alaska; 
one  from  the  head  of  the  Matannska,  by  way  of  the  Delta  Eiver,  to 
the  Tanaua,  explored  by  Captain  Glenn  and  detail,  United  States 
Army;  a  second  from  the  Sushitna  Valley  by  way  of  the  Yentna  and 
Kuskokwim  into  the  western  interior,  followed  by  Mr.  Spuir,  of  the 
Geological  Survey;  and  a  third,  explored  by  the  party  of  the  Survey 
under  the  writer,  by  way  of  the  Sushitna  and  Cantwell  rivers  to  the 
Tanana.  in  the  vicinity  of  the  latter  route  are  several  passes  by  which 
the  Alaskan  Mountains  may  be  crossed,  one  of  which  was  taken  by  a 
detail  from  the  Glenn  party  —  Sergeant  Yanert  and  a  private,  accom- 
panied by  one  or  two  Indians.  The  route  followed  by  the  writer  lay 
along  the  western  shore  of  Cook  Inlet  from  Tyonek  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Sushitna  Eiver,  thence  up  the  river  to  the  mouth  of  Indian 
Creek — thus  far,  1.jO  miles,  by  canoe.  From  here  an  old  and  very 
obscure  Indian  trail  was  taken  across  the  uplands  east  of  Indian 


REPORT    OF   THE    SUSHITNA    EXPEDITION. 


27 


Creek  to  the  head  of  this  stream,  distant  from  the  mouth  about  20 
miles.  A  pass  of  .'5,700  feet  elevation  leads  hence  to  the  valley  of  the 
Upper  Chulitna,  the  route  first  passing  through  a  cove  in  the  range 
and  thence  to  the  easternmost  of  the  upper  and  larger  forks  of  the 
stream;  this  fork,  about  10  miles  from  the  head,  further  divides  into 
two,  a  conspicuous  conical  point  marking  the  confluence.  The  west- 
ern of  the  forks  leads  to  the  desired  pass,  although  the  trail  first  leads 
to  the  east  of  the  point  mentioned,  passing  over  a  high  ridge  and 
thence  into  the  upper  valley.  In  this  portion  of  the  valley  there  is  a 
steady  but  gentle  ascent  to  the  eastern  of  the  two  passes.  From  the 
pass  the  route  lay  directly  downstream  for  about  65  miles,  nearly  to 
the  open  valley  of  the  Tanana. 

In  reference  to  the  desirability  of  a  portion  of  the  foregoing  route, 
it  is  quite  possible  that  it  would  have  been  preferable  to  have  ascended 
the  Chulitna  in  canoes,  for  from  our  later  observations  the  belief  was 
acquired  that  it  was  feasible,  notwithstanding  information  from  Indians 
to  the  contrary.  In  any  event  the  latter  route  is  worth  attempting, 
since  there  could  be  little  loss  of  time  even  should  it  be  necessary 
to  turn  back,  and  if  that  were  not  necessary,  greater  and  easier 
progress  would  be  made  than  by  the  route  which  was  followed  across 
country,  for  in  the  latter  instance  all  supplies  must  be  packed  on  the 
back.  Moreover,  with  the  canoes  at  the  head  of  the  Chulitna  it 
would  not  be  a  very  difficult  task  to  pack  them  across  the  com- 
paratively short  interval  (10  miles)  to  the  waters  of  the  Cautwell.  It 
is  also  possible  that  the  tributary  ascended  by  Sergeant  Yanert  will 
prove  the  natural  and  more  direct  route  to  the  waters  of  the  Cantwell 
and  so  to  the  Tanana.  Moreover,  there  may  be  other  advantages  by 
this  route,  such  as  the  constant  timber  supply  which  exists  on  both 
sides  of  the  mountains  to  within  a  very  few  miles  of  the  divide.  Con- 
ditions in  this  particular  could  not  be  worse  than  on  the  route  followed 
by  the  Surve}^  party,  where  with  the  exception  of  a  single  locality  no 
timber  occurs  for  a  distance  of  60  to  70  miles,  even  alder  being  scarce 
for  long  distances. 


Magnetic  variations,  Sa-'^hltna  Ricer,  189S. 


Lat.  OH.) 

Loug.  (W.) 

Place. 

Date. 

Variation 

(E.) 

61  19 

150  38 

Mouth  Sushitna  River. 

:\ray  12-15 

27  15 

61  35 

150  27 

Mouth  Yeiitna  River. 

May  26,  9 :45  a  m. 

27  20 

61  54 

150  07 

Sushitna  River 

June  3,  4 :30  p.  m. 

2?  50 

63  20 

150  10 

Forks  Sushitna  River. 

June  20,  4:30  p.m. 

29  80 

62  49 

149  39 

Sushitua   River  mouth 
of  Iiulian  Creek. 

July  5,  4:33  p.m. 

29  30 

REPORT  OF   THE   KUSKOKWIM   EXPEDITION/ 


liv  J.  E.  Spubr  and  W.  S.  Post. 


ITINERARY. 


The  Kuskokwim  expedition,  as  landed  at  Tyonek,  consisted  of  J,  E. 
Spurr,  geologist  and  chief;  W.  S.  Post,  topographer;  and  A.  E.  Har- 
rell,  Oscar  Rohn,  George  Hartman,  and  F.  C.  Hinckley,  camp  hands. 
The  purpose  of  the  expedition  was  to  ascend  the  west  branch  of  the 
Sushitna  River  and  to  cross  over  from  its  head  waters  to  those  of  the 
Kuskokwim,  then  if  possible  to  descend  the  Kuskokwim  as  far  as  the 
water  route  to  the  Yukon,  then  by  way  of  this  water  route  and  the 
Lower  Yukon  to  reach  St.  Michael,  where  steamboats  could  be  found 
to  transport  the  party  back  to  Seattle  or  San  Francisco.     Since  nearly 
all  of  this  region  was  entirely  unknown,  we  hardly  knew  what  prepa- 
rations to  make,  but  all  our  supplies  were  taken  with  a  view  of  meet- 
ing 80  far  as  possible  any  condition  which  might  be  encountered.    We 
started  out  with  three  light  cedar  canoes,  specially  built  in  Peterboro, 
Ontario,  and  these  proved  excellent   for  all-round  purposes.      We 
arrived  at  Cook  Inlet  on  the  26th  of  April — a  rather  unfortunate 
time,  since  it  was  too  late  for  ice  and  snow  traveling  and  too  early  for 
water  travel,  the  rivers  being  not  yet  broken;   moreover,  we  were 
delayed  several  days  by  heavy  gales.     On  the  4th  of  May,  the  gales 
having  abated,  two  canoes  proceeded  to  the  mouth  of  the  Sushitna, 
arriving  there  on  the  7th,  while  a  surveying  party  proceeded  along 
the  shore  to  the  same  place.     On  account  of  the  condition  of  the  ice, 
we  were  obliged  to  camp  on  an  island  in  the  delta  until  the  20th  of 
Maj",  when  we  started  upstream  in  our  boats,  paddling  or  pulling 
ourselves  up  by  the  bushes.     We  had  supposed  the  ice  to  be  already 
broken,  but  the  real  break-up  occurred  while  we  were  ascending  the 
river  to  Sushitna  Station,  and  we  had  exciting  times  dodging  the  ice 
jams.     At  Sushitna  Station  we  attempted  to  secure  Indians  as  guides, 
but  were  unable  to  do  so,  the  natives  claiming  that  the  river  we 
wished  to  ascend  was  too  rapid  and  dangerous  at  that  time  of  the 
year;  very  few  of  them,  indeed,  had  any  knowledge  of  the  route  at 
all.      We  accordinglj'  left  without  guides  and  entered  the  western 
branch  of  the  river,  known  to  the  natives  as  the  Katcheldat  or  Yentna. 
Although  the  Yentna  River  is  not  very  long,  it  proved  so  difficult 
of  ascent  that  it  was  the  3d  of  July  before  we  reached  the  spot  where 
we  began  our  portage  to  the  Kuskokwim.     In  the  meantime  we  had 

•  See  maps  Nos.  3,  4,  and  5,  in  accompanying  envelope. 
28 


REPORT  OF  THE  KUSKOKWIM  EXPEDITION.         29 

slowly  M^orked  our  way  through  a  series  of  snag  ilats  which  alternate 
with  short  narrow  canyons,  and  had  met  with  many  accidents.  Our 
journey  over  the  Tordrillo  Mountains,  which  we  found  to  form  the 
divide  between  tlie  Sushitna  and  the  Kuskokwim,  occupied  in  all 
nearly  two  weeks,  as  we  had  to  portage  around  canyons  on  the  smaller 
streams  and  climb  over  a  pass  about  4,400  feet  high.  However, 
we  finally  reached,  on  the  other  side  of  the  divide,  a  rapid  stream  of 
considerable  size,  which  we  afterwards  found  to  be  the  Kuskokwim. 
After  running  down  this  river  toward  the  north  a  hundred  miles  or 
so  we  saw  a  few  Indians,  for  the  first  time  in  nearly  two  months;  and 
on  the  1st  of  August  we  reached  the  old  trading  post  known  as 
Vinasale,  where,  however,  we  were  disappointed  in  finding  no  pro- 
visions. After  leaving  this  place  we  ran  down  to  the  trading  post 
Kolmakof,  but  finding  no  provisions  here  we  continued  to  near  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  where,  at  Bethel,  we  found  a  Moravian  mission 
and  a  trading  post.  Here  our  party  was  divided,  Messrs.  Hinckley, 
Madison,  and  Harrell  crossing  to  the  Yukon  by  the  water  route  and 
thence  to  St.  Michael,  from  which  point  they  proceeded  homeward; 
the  remaining  four  of  the  party  proceeded  down  Kuskokwim  Bay  and 
attempted  the  exploration  of  the  Kanektok,  a  river  hitherto  unknown. 
The  ascent  of  this  river  proved  difficult  and  occupied  us  nearly  two 
weeks,  after  which  we  were  obliged  to  portage  more  than  20  miles 
across  a  high  mountain  pass,  on  the  other  side  of  which  we  found  a 
large  lake  which  is  the  chief  source  of  the  Togiak  Eiver.  Eunning 
down  this  river,  in  a  few  days  we  reached  Nushagak,  by  the  route 
outlined  on  the  map.  At  Nushagak  we  hired  skin  bidarkies  and 
paddled  across  Bristol  Bay  to  the  Naknek  Eiver,  and  by  way  of  this 
river  and  the  lake  in  which  it  heads  reached  the  native  village  of 
Savonoski,  from  which  point  a  rapid  portage  of  60  miles  across  the 
high  and  bleak  Katmai  Pass  took  us  to  the  Aleut  village  of  Katmai. 
After  considerable  delay  at  this  point,  we  were  luckily  picked  up  by 
the  Alaska  Commercial  Company's  boat  Dora,  and  reached  Seattle 
on  the  11th  of  November. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

Cook  Inlet. — Cook  Inlet  passes  through  and  behind  the  barrier 
ranges  which  confront  the  navigator  in  a  nearly  continuous  line  from 
British  Columbia  to  Prince  William  Sound.  The  entrance  capes  are 
rugged,  while  farther  in  low  wooded  plains  slope  down  from  the  high 
flanking  ranges. 

The  characteristic  feature  of  Cook  Inlet  drainages  is  rapid  flow  from 
high  altitudes  to  the  sea  in  short  distances.  The  Sushitna  waters 
debouch  from  mountain  gorges  onto  a  sloping  plain  of  glacial  drift 
and  gravels,  which  extends  inland  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  100 
miles  northwest  and  north.     The  immediate  region  around  the  mouth 


30  MAPS    AND    DESCRIPTIONS    OF    ALASKA. 

is  low,  and  in  the  surroundinjj  panoninia  of  uiountains  the  only  near 
feature  is  the  isolated  Mount  Sushitna.  In  the  distance  rise  the  vol- 
canic peaks  of  the  C'higniit  Range;  then  farther  northward  the  Being 
Mountains,  the  Tordrillo  Range,  and  the  McKinley  or  Traleyka 
Range;  and  to  the  east  the  mountains  of  Turnagain  Arm  and  the 
Kenai  Peninsula. 

Skirrntua  rcf/ioii. — A  short  distance  up  the  Yentna  from  its  mouth  the 
low  banks  are  replaced  by  gravel  blulls  150  feet  high,  which  continue 
the  entire  distance  to  the  base  of  the  mountains,  the  Yentna  River 
roughly  maintaining  the  grade  of  the  plain.  The  junction  of  the 
Yentna  with  the  Skwentna  is  marked  by  the  isolated  Yenlo  Moun- 
tain. 

The  Skweiitna  is  varied  in  character  by  four  short  canyons,  which 
alternate  with  the  wider  valleys  confined  by  gravel  bluffs.  Eighty 
miles  from  Sushitna  Station  the  base  of  the  mountains  is  reached. 
Above  this  the  river  flows  in  a  valley  flanked  by  peaks  varying  from 
■i,UOO  to  7,000  feet  in  height,  while  torrential  streams,  some  of  which 
are  glacial,  enter  on  either  side.  The  mountain  slopes  are  rugged  and 
dirticnlt  of  ascent:  timber  disappears  at  an  altitude  of  L',r)00  feet,  and 
topography  like  that  of  the  higher  liocky  Mountains  appears  in  the 
heart  of  the  range.  Remnants  of  glaciers  lie  high  on  the  northern 
sides  of  the  mountains,  while  below  maj'  be  traced  ancient  marine 
teri'aces,  giving  more  rounded  contours  to  the  lower  slopes. 

In  its  extreme  upper  part  the  valley  of  the  Skwentna  bends  sharply 
to  the  south  and  has  its  source  in  lofty  mountain  msisses.  Some  dis- 
tance below  the  head,  however,  a  portage  of  20  miles  over  the  main 
divide  reaches  the  Kuskokwim  waters,  which  flow  northward  from 
the  same  mountains.  The  pass  traversed  by  us  is  4,400  feet  high  and 
is  surrounded  by  picturesiiue  mountain  peaks;  it  has  an  east  west 
course  and  crosses  the  range  at  right  angles,  and  although  not  the  low- 
est pass  it  is  the  most  practicable.  To  the  north,  curving  like  a  horse- 
shoe, lie  the  structural  valleys  of  Happy  Creek  and  Ptarmigan  Valley. 
These  valleys  are  topographically  continuous,  are  5  to  10  miles  in 
width,  and  are  about  ."),.")00  feet  in  altitude  where  they  meet. 

/w'vA-oAvr/m  rrf/io)!. — The  Kuskokwim  at  the  point  where  we  reached 
it  is  already  a  large  river,  o^cupying  a  deep  mountain  valley  with 
untimbered  peaks  on  either  side.  After  receiving  many  tributaries  it 
finally  leaves  the  mountains  and  enters  a  great  gravel  plain,  where  it 
splits  into  small  shallow  channels.  Sixty  miles  beyond  its  rapid  course 
is  arrested,  at  the  flats;  and,  soon  after,  meeting  the  eastern  fork,  it 
becomes  a  wide  and  sluggish  river. 

Farther  down  the  river  enters  mountains,  and  leaving  these  below 
Kolmakof,  flows  through  the  treeless  tundra.  Here  the  banks  are 
low,  though  they  often  run  back  to  hills  of  some  height.  After 
leaving  the   mountain  valley  below   Kolmakof,  the  mountains  near 


REPORT  OF  THE  KUSKOKWIM  EXPEDITION.         31 

Holy  Cross  Mission  on  the  north  side  of  the  Yukon  can  be  seen  in  the 
distance,  and  to  the  south  the  detached  Kilbuck  Mountains  and  the 
ranges  south  of  Kwinhagamut. 

Kanektok  region. — ^The  Kanektok  near  its  mouth  flows  through  the 
same  tundra  as  the  Lower  Kuskokwim,  but  30  miles  inland  it  again 
meets  the  mountain  front. 

The  ranges  here  are  extensive  but  are  separated  by  wide  valleys, 
and  the  rounded  summits  at  first  encountered  are  replaced  in  the 
heart  of  the  range  by  sharp  peaks.  At  the  head  of  the  Kanektok  we 
encountered  the  first  of  the  large  lakes  which  are  among  the  most 
noticeable  and  important  topographic  features  of  southwestern  Alaska. 
From  a  small  stream  running  into  this  lake  a  series  of  short  carries 
between  small  lakes  brings  one  to  the  main  portage,  which  leads  to 
Togiak  Lake.  The  pass  which  is  crossed  is  2,200  feet  high,  and  the 
mountains  around  are  from  3,000  to  6,000  feet  in  altitude. 

Togiak  region. — Togiak  Lake  is  bordered  by  imposing  mountains. 
Descending  the  Togiak' Eiver  we  found  the  valley  to  widen  to  a  plain, 
and  at  the  seacoast  the  mountains  are  mostly  distant.  The  coast  from 
Togiak  to  Jifushagak  is  usually  bordered  by  a  cliff,  while  in  all  the 
bays  there  are  flats  running  far  out  at  low  water. 

Nusliagak  region. — The  Nushagak  River  is  the  most  important  one 
draining  into  Bristol  Bay.  Its  chief  source  is  the  large  Tikchik  Lake, 
but  it  has  several  important  tributaries.  In  its  lower  course  it  runs 
through  the  same  low  land  which  stretches  toward  Iliamna  Lake  and 
southward  past  Naknek;  its  higher  parts  lie  in  a  mountainous  country. 
The  largest  lakes  in  Alaska — Iliamna,  Clark,  Naknek,  and  Becherof — 
all  lie  within  a  short  radius  of  the  I^^ushagak  district. 

Naknek  region. — In  proceeding  up  the  Naknek  Eiver  a  lowland  coun- 
try is  passed,  which  suddenly  gives  way  to  precipitous  mountains 
when  the  lake  is  reached.  These  mountains  are  frequently  isolated, 
although  the  central  mass  forms  continuous  chains  for  considerable 
distances.  Glaciers  are  more  numerous  here  than  in  the  regions  pre- 
viously described,  on  account  of  greater  precipitation  near  the  coast. 

POPULATION. 

The  native  of  the  Sushitna  is  Indian,  probably  belonging  to  the 
class  of  Athapaskans,  and  resembling  in  a  general  way  the  Copper 
Biver  natives  and  those  of  the  Tanana  and  Upper  Yukon.  These 
Indians  speak  a  language  which  is  very  limited  in  vocabulary  and 
Inflection;  they  are  of  medium  stature,  with  generally  intelligent  fea- 
tures, and  are  by  occupation  fishermen  and  hunters.  The  Sushitna 
Indians  have  a  village  at  Tyouek,  and  another  at  the  Sushitna  trading 
post,  but  on  the  Skwentna  they  have  no  permanent  habitations, 
although  they  ascend  this  river  in  the  spring  as  far  as  the  mountains 
for  the  sake  of  hunting.     l!^either  on  the  upper,  torrential  portion  of 

3-Alaska. 


32  MATS    AM)    DESCRIPTIONS    OF    ALASKA. 

the  Kuskokwim  are  there  any  permanent  habitations,  the  first  natives 
encoiinlorod  luMnf^a  hiuulred  miles  or  so  down  the  river;  these  belong 
to  the  same  j^eiieral  type  as  the  Sushitnas,  and  are  called  Kolchane  by 
the  other  inhabitants  of  the  Kuskokwim  district.  They  are  a  poor 
and  sealtere<l  people,  wandering  continually  from  place  to  place.  We 
saw  not  more  than  a  hundred  of  them  altogether.  From  Kolmanof 
down  to  Bering  Sea  is  found  a  comparatively  numerous  population  of 
Eskimos,  who  subsist  almost  entirely  on  the  fish,  especially  salmon, 
which  annually  Jisceud  the  river.  The  entire  number  of  these  people 
is  several  thousand,  and  they  have  many  small  villages.  From  the 
Kuskokwim  to  Katmai  the  people  also  belong  to  the  Eskimo  stock 
and  speak  the  same  language,  although  in  dillerent  (lialects.  Their 
number  is  not  large,  but  one  often  meets  with  permanent  villages. 

CLIMATE. 

The  climate  in  the  vicinity  of  Cook  Inlet  is  extremely  local.  Heavy 
storms  often  hang  over  the  inlet  for  weeks,  while  the  mountains  around 
are  bathed  in  sunshine;  and  often  this  is  reversed.  From  the  end  of 
April  until  the  latter  part  of  May  the  ice  and  snow  were  too  soft  for 
traveling,  except  sometimes  at  night.  The  main  break-up  of  the  ice 
on  the  Sushitna  occurred  on  the  19th  and  20th  of  May.  From  that 
time  the  weather  grew  warm  with  surprising  rapidity.  The  rainfall 
from  early  spring  until  the  middle  of  July  was  very  moderate,  the 
weather  most  of  the  time  being  clear  and  pleasant.  The  rapidly  melt- 
ing snows  on  the  mountains,  however,  swelled  the  rivers  and  caused 
frequent  floods.  By  the  middle  of  July  we  were  at  a  point  on  the 
Kuskokwim  about  100  miles  below  the  portage,  and  from  this  time 
until  the  latter  part  of  August  we  experienced  a  very  rainy  season, 
showers  falling  nearly  every  day  and  continuous  rains  being  frequent. 
During  this  period  the  days,  when  clear,  were  warm  and  pleasant  and 
the  nights  just  cool  enough  to  be  agreeable.  About  the  middle  of 
August  the  increasing  length  of  the  nights  and  the  more  frequent 
frosts  began  to  diminish  notably  the  energy  of  the  mosquitoes.  By 
the  first  of  September  the  marked  increase  in  coolness  indicated  the 
beginning  of  the  autumn  season. 

During  the  ascent  of  the  Kanektok  River,  in  the  latter  part  of  August 
and  the  first  part  of  September,  we  experienced  tremendous  rains 
which  lasted  night  and  day.  After  the  middle  of  September,  how- 
ever, less  rainfall  was  encountered,  although  for  all  the  rest  of  the 
season  we  were  coutinuallj^  annoyed  by  very  violent  gales.  During 
the  latter  part  of  September  and  the  early  part  of  I^ovember  severe 
frosts  at  night  began  to  be  frequent,  although  we  were  proceeding 
southward.  The  middle  of  Js^ov ember  is  about  the  average  limit  of 
river  navigation  in  the  neighborhood  of  Nushagak, 


REPORT    OF   THE    KUSKOKWIM    EXPEDITION.  33. 

VEGETATION   AND   BIRDS. 

All  along  the  river  bottoms  of  the  Skwentna  there  is  an  abundant 
growth  of  dwarf  timber,  consisting  in  the  lower  flats  of  poplar 
and  willow,  while  the  drier  land  has  abundant  spruce  and  birch. 
Beneath  the  trees,  and  also  on  broad  flats  which  are  treeless,  are 
abundant  shrubs,  grasses,  and  flowering  plants.  The  alder  grows 
everywhere,  even  on  the  sides  of  the  steep  hills.  In  the  early  part 
of  July,  on  the  high  ground  on  the  upper  part  of  the  Skwentna,  broad 
open  glades  were  found  where  the  grass  grew  very  thickly  and  as  high 
as  the  waist.  Berries  of  various  kinds,  ferns,  and  flowering  plants 
were  abundant,  the  vetch,  Eocky  Mountain  bluebell,  Eocky  Mountain 
sunflower,  white  buttercup,  fireweed,  violet,  and  many  other  blossoms 
being  found.  Moss  is  everywhere  abundant,  but  is  not  so  thick  as  in 
more  humid  regions  on  the  coast  farther  south.  The  higher  part  of 
the  pass,  between  the  Skwentna  and  the  Kuskokwim,  was  above 
timber  line  and  was  bare,  save  for  moss  and  stunted  bushes. 

On  the  Upper  Kuskokwim  the  vegetation  is  much  like  that  of  the 
Skwentna,  the  species  of  trees  noticed  being  the  birch,  the  spruce,  the 
balm  of  Gilead,  the  small-leafed  poplar,  the  larch,  the  willow,  and 
the  alder.  Below  Kolmakof  the  timber  disappears,  save  for  a  slight 
growth  of  small  balm  of  Gilead  and  willow  close  to  the  river.  On  the 
tundra,  which  reaches  from  here  to  the  coast,  only  thick  moss  and 
stunted  bushes  grow,  with  various  marsh  plants,  and  sometimes  mush- 
rooms. From  the  Kuskokwim  to  Katmai  the  country  has  in  general 
no  timber,  the  only  growths  of  spruce  met  with  being  found  on  the 
small  Egoushik  Eiver,  which  lies  to  the  southwest  of  Nushagak. 

The  migratory  birds  return  very  early  to  Cook  Inlet.  The  sparrows, 
the  robins,  the  warblers,  the  swallows,  and  the  thrushes  were  seen 
here  during  the  early  part  of  the  month  of  May.  By  the  end  of  May 
the  birds  had  commenced  nesting,  and  we  frequently  disturbed  the 
wild  geese,  the  Arctic  tern,  the  ducks,  and  the  gulls  as  we  passed  by. 
Along  the  Skwentna  Eiver  we  found  sandpipers  and  other  shore  birds 
in  plenty,  with  gulls  and  terns;  redpolls  were  very  common,  and 
several  species  of  grouse  were  constantly  met  with.  From  the  alders 
on  the  river  bank  the  startling  ^^Whoo-pee"  of  the  fly-catcher  was 
constantly  sounded.  On  the  portage  at  the  head  of  the  Skwentna  we 
saw  a  number  of  warblers,  including  the  common  yellow  warbler,  and 
two  species  of  three-toed  woodpeckers,  which  are  common  in  all  north- 
ern countries.  The  hawk  owl  and  the  goshawk  were  occasionally  met 
with  in  the  woods.  On  the  very  summit  of  the  pass,  which  is  about 
4,400  feet  high,  we  found  very  few  birds;  here,  besides  the  ubiquitous 
redpoll,  we  occasionally  came  across  a  brood  of  ptarmigan,  and  once 
we  saw  two  pretty  Arctic  finches  living  among  the  high  rocks.  As 
we  approached  the  summit  we  heard  the  scream  of  a  golden  eagle, 


34  MAPS    AND    DESCRIPTIONS    OF    ALASKA. 

which  had  its  aerie  in  a  crag  neiir  by.  The  general  bird  life  of  the 
Kuskokwini  is  very  nearly  like  that  which  has  been  noted  for  the 
Skwentna. 

GAME    AND    FISH. 

The  Skwentna  and  the  Kuskokwim  both  flow  through  what  is  in 
general  a  remarkably  poor  game  country.  During  our  whole  trip 
along  these  rivers  we  saw  only  two  moose  and  one  bear;  and,  more- 
over, there  were  no  signs  of  any  great  number.  Small  game  was 
very  scarce,  for  although  grouse  and  ptarmigan  were  occasionally 
met  with  in  the  woods  they  could  not  be  depended  upon;  and 
rabbits  were  almost  absent,  only  one  small  individual  being  seen. 
The  extremely  scanty  population  of  Indians  on  the  Skwentna  and 
Upper  Kuskokwim  shows  how  small  the  game  supply  must  be.  In 
an  abandoned  Indian  camp  at  the  head  of  the  Kuskokwim,  however, 
we  found  splendid  horns  of  the  mountain  sheep,  showing  the  presence 
of  this  animal  in  that  region. 

The  mountains  lying  between  the  Kuskokwim  and  the  Togiak  form 
apparently  better  hunting  grounds  than  the  Tordrillo  Eange,  the  signs 
of  bear  being  especially  abundant.  Near  Cape  Etolin,  between 
Nushagak  Bay  and  Bristol  Bay,  our  natives  killed  two  caribou,  which 
were  the  only  large  game  we  saw  between  the  Kuskokwim  and  the 
Kaknek  Eiver.  The  Alaska  Peninsula  has  apparently  comparatively 
good  hunting  grounds,  the  bear  in  the  vicinity  of  Katmai  being 
very  numerous;  we  also  saw  two  moose  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Katmai  Pass.  On  the  whole,  however,  the  entire  population  of  the 
country  we  traversed  subsists  essentially  upon  fish,  which  are  usually 
plentiful,  especially  salmon,  which  ascend  all  the  rivers  in  large 
numbers  annually.  In  some  of  the  streams  also,  especially  the 
Sushitna,  the  small  greasy  candlefish  forms  an  important  article  in 
the  diet  of  the  natives. 

GEOLOGY. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Tyonek  were  found  partially  consolidated  gravels 
and  clays  which  are  of  Tertiary  age;  they  contain  beds  of  lignite. 
Above  this  series  lie  thick  stratified  gravels,  with  occasional  bowlders, 
and  these  gravels  form  for  the  most  part  the  bluffs  along  the  shore, 
covering  over  a  broad  area  most  of  the  underlying  rock,  which  shows 
only  in  occasional  ridges  cut  by  the  streams  or  protruding  above  the 
surface  of  the  gravel  plateau.  Above  the  station  on  the  Sushitna  is 
found  a  volcanic  rock,  basalt.  A  short  distance  above  the  mouth  of 
the  Yentna  this  river  cuts  through  granite,  which  is  probably  the 
extension  of  Sushitna  Mountain;  and  Yenlo  Mountain,  farther  up,  at 
the  junction  of  the  Yentna  and  the  Skwentna,  is  probably  a  recently 
extinct  volcano,  since  volcanic  pumice  is  found  near  its  base.     The 


REPORT    OF   THE    KUSKOKWIM    EXPEDITION.  35 

Shell  Hills,  as  shown  by  the  rocks  in  the  first  canyon  of  the  Skwentna, 
are  of  ancient  basalt;  and  from  these  hills  to  near  the  portage  across 
the  Tordrillo  Mountains  the  rocks  ordinarily  are  old  volcanics,  the 
lavas  alternating  with  tuffs,  which  are  simply  the  consolidated  coarse 
sand  and  mud  once  worn  away  from  the  volcanic  rocks  and  afterwards 
hardened.  On  account  of  their  age  these  volcanic  rocks  are  altered 
in  appearance,  being  of  a  greenish  color,  often  black,  sometimes  sug- 
gesting limestones  and  sometimes  sandstones.  As  a  whole  they  are 
cut  by  occasional  diorite  and  granite  dikes.  On  both  sides  of  the 
crest  of  the  Tordrillo  Mountains  for  several  miles  there  are  heavy 
black  shales  with  indistinct  plant  remains,  and  these  are  cut  by  a 
broad  dike  of  granite,  which  forms  the  axis  of  the  range  and  sends  out 
many  smaller  intrusions.  On  the  Kuskokwim  side  of  the  mountains 
is  found  the  same  stratified  gravel  deposit  as  on  the  Sushitna  side; 
this  is  generally  level,  but  slopes  gently  away  from  the  mountains  and 
covers  up  most  of  the  solid  rocks  beneath.  A  hundred  miles  or  so 
from  the  mountains  the  river  enters  broad  flats  which  are  covered 
with  a  thick  deposit  of  silt.  These  flats,  like  those  of  the  Yukon  and 
other  Alaskan  streams,  are  evidently  the  bottoms  of  ancient  shallow 
lakes  which  have  recently  been  drained.  Proceeding  from  here  down 
the  Kuskokwim,  one  finds  sedimentary  rocks  nearly  continuously  for 
hundreds  of  miles,  as  far  as  the  Yukon  portage.  These  consist  of 
impure  shales,  limestones,  sandstones,  and  occasionally  conglomerates, 
all  intimately  interbedded.  On  the  upper  river,  near  the  camp  of 
July  29  (see  map  JSTo.  3),  Devoaian  fossils  were  found,  and  below  Kol- 
makof  probable  Cretaceous  fossils;  but  between  these  horizons  there  is 
evidently  a  gap.  Through  all  these  sedimentary  rocks  there  are  dikes 
of  general  granitic  nature.  In  the  region  of  Kolmakof  and  below 
there  is  an  increase  in  the  number  of  granitic  dikes,  and  some  schistose 
rocks  are  found,  together  with  occasional  volcanics.  From  this  point 
down  to  the  coast  there  is  a  continuous  deposit  of  clay  overlain  by 
peat,  which  forms  the  foundation  of  the  tundra.  The  mountains 
which  lie  between  the  Kanektok  and  the  Togiak  rivers  contain  the 
same  sedimentary  rocks  as  are  found  on  the  Kuskokwim  in  some 
places,  together  with  many  large  intrusive  bodies  of  syenite,  granite, 
diorite,  and  some  ancient  lavas.  From  Togiak  Lake  to  ^N^ushagak 
there  is  found  mostly  the  volcanic  rock,  basalt,  and  tuffs  which  have 
evidently  been  derived  from  the  same  rock.  The  hills  in  this  region 
have  the  appearance  of  being  ancient  volcanoes.  From  Nushagak  to 
Bristol  Bay  the  high  bluffs  are  entirely  of  gravel,  but  two  separate 
gravel  formations  are  distinguishable,  the  upper  one  level  and  the 
lower  one  slightly  folded;  both  contain  pebbles  scratched  by  ice. 
These  gravels  reach  to  Naknek  Lake,  where  volcanic  rocks  (andesite- 
basalt)  are  found,  with  dikes  of  syenite  and  granite.  On  the  upper 
part  of  the  lake  a  series  of  sedimentary  rocks  consisting  of  sandstones, 


36  MAPS    AND    DESCUIPTIONS    OK    ALASKA. 

shales,  etc.,  occurs,  and  these  rocks  extend,  with  interruptions,  as  far 
as  Katnuii  Point,  and  at  several  phices  they  contain  fossils  which 
show  their  age  to  be  Upper  Jurassic.  Along  the  axis  of  the  range 
the  Junissic  rocks  are  cut  by  a  chain  of  volcanoes  whose  lava  is  an 
andesite- basalt.  These  volcanoes  have  probably  been  active  in  com- 
paratively recent  times,  and  hot  springs  and  earthquakes  are  among 
the  present  phenomena. 

liesumc. — The  region  from  the  mouth  of  the  Skwentna  to  near  the 
axis  of  the  Tordrillo  Mountains,  also  the  whole  region  from  the  Togiak- 
Kanektok  divide  to  Katmai,  and  the  region  between  Kolmakofand 
the  Yukon  portage,  arc  chiefly  covered  with  volcanic  rocks  or  with 
sedimentary  rocks  evidently  derived  from  the  volcanics  (tuffs).  The 
lavas,  however,  belong  to  different  ages,  only  the  line  along  the  Alaska 
Peninsula  (Aleutian  Mountains),  which  probably  extends  as  far  as  the 
Skwentna  (Yenlo  Mountain),  appearing  to  have  been  recently  active, 
although  along  this  line  there  are  other  more  ancient  lavas.  The 
region  from  Togiak  to  Nushagak  shows  no  active  volcanoes,  but  the 
old  volcanic  cones  are  very  likely  Tertiary  in  age. 

Apart  from  the  volcanic  areas  the  district  from  the  Tordrillo  Moun- 
tains down  the  Kuskokwim  to  the  Yukon  portage  consists  of  little- 
disturbed  sedimentary  rocks  corresponding  in  general  to  the  similar 
Paleozoic  and  Mesozoic  rocks  on  the  Yukon.  The  older  schistose 
rocks  of  the  Y'ukon,  such  as  the  Fortymile  series  and  the  Birch  Creek 
series,  do  not  appear  anywhere  in  the  region. 

MINEKAL  RESOURCES. 

Xear  Tyonek  are  found  frequent  seams  of  brown  lignite,  which 
has  been  sometimes  used  for  steaming,  but  which  in  general  is  of  a 
very  low  grade.  On  the  Skwentoa  River  below  the  junction  of  the 
Hayes  River  similar  liguitic  seams  were  found.  Coaly  seams,  and 
even  impure  coal,  occur  on  the  Kuskokwim  in  the  sedimentary  rocks, 
especially  in  the  vicinity  of  Kolmakof;  but  so  far  nothing  of  value  is 
known.  Heavy  seams  of  liguitic  coal  are  found  on  Nunivak  Island 
and  the  adjacent  mainland,  these  localities  lying  between  the  mouth 
of  the  Kuskokwim  and  that  of  the  Yukon.  Coal  and  oil  have  been 
reported  on  the  coast  northeast  from  Katmai. 

On  the  Skwentna  River  the  gravels  almost  always  contain  small 
quantities  of  gold,  usually  fine,  although  sometimes  coarse  grains  are 
found,  especially  near  the  mountains.  In  a  canyon  on  the  Skwentna 
below  the  mouth  of  Happy  Creek  granitic  dikes  cut  the  basalts  and 
tuffs  and  bring  about  some  mineralization,  shown  by  the  presence  of 
pyrite,  copper  pyrite,  and  galena  near  the  dikes.  Random  samples 
show  that  this  rock  is  sometimes  a  low-grade  ore,  the  highest  assay 
taken  showing  one-tenth  ounce  of  gold  and  one-fourth  ounce  of  silver, 
making  a  value  of  something  over  $2  to  the  ton.     On  the  Kuskokwim 


IIEPOKT    OF   THE    KUSKOKWnr    EXPEDITION.  37 

drainage  gold  is  found  in  gravels  in  the  streams  near  the  Tor- 
drillo  Mountains.  Elsewhere  on  the  Kuskokwim,  however,  the 
gravels  derived  from  the  purely  sedimentary  rocks  are  generally 
entirely  barren  of  gold.  In  the  region  about  Kolmakof,  where  there 
are  more  intrusive  rocks  and  more  folding,  there  is  a  little  more 
mineralization  also;  and  gold  in  small  quantities,  as  well  as  cinnabar, 
the  ore  of  mercury,  has  been  reported.  In  the  southern  extension  of 
these  Kuskokwim  Mountains  a  specimen  of  realgar  and  stibnite,  the 
ores  of  arsenic  and  antimony,  has  been  seen  from  the  Kwiklimut 
Elver,  From  the  Lower  Kuskokwim  to  Katmai,  also,  the  gravels  in 
general  contain  no  trace  of  gold,  the  volcanic  region  being  apparently 
without  much  mineralization.  On  the  whole,  therefore,  the  country 
traversed  does  not  show  signs  of  great  mineral  wealth.  The  most 
favorable  region  is  undoubtedly  the  Tordrillo  range  of  mountains, 
which  is  very  difficult  of  access.  Possibly  the  best  way  of  reaching 
these  mountains  is  by  Lake  Clark. 

LAND    AND   WATER   ROUTES. 

At  Cook  Inlet  the  harbors  open  throughout  the  year  are  Saldovia, 
Kachemak  (Homer  post-office),  Kamishak,  and  Snug  Harbor.  From 
April  to  October  Tyonek  is  open  for  specially  piloted  vessels  of 
medium  draft. 

The  mouth  of  the  Sushitna  is  impassable  for  anything  except  flat- 
bottomed  craft.  From  its  mouth  to  its  junction  with  the  Yentna  it  is 
navigable  for  small  boats,  as  is  the  Yentna  for  40  miles  to  its  junction 
with  the  Skwentna.  The  current  is  from  4  to  7  miles  an  hour.  Shortly 
above  the  junction  the  Skwentna  is  torrential  and  can  hardly  be 
said  to  be  navigable  even  for  canoes.  On  the  west  side  of  the  moun- 
tains the  Kuskokwim  is  likewise  torrential  and  entirely  unnavigable 
as  far  as  the  Indian  village  shown  on  the  maps.  Below  this  village 
there  is  good  steamboat  navigation  600  miles  to  the  sea.  The  current 
does  not  exceed  7  miles  an  hour  at  any  point  below  this,  and  will 
average  about  4  miles. 

The  Sushitna  natives  follow  the  Beluga  River  from  the  coast  and 
then  northward  to  the  junction  of  the  Yentna  and  the  Skwentna  across 
the  gravel  plateau.  This  route  could  be  extended  and  the  Tordrillo 
Mountains  crossed  at  one  of  the  low  gaps  to  the  gravel  plateau  on  the 
west  side,  from  which  point  a  route  could  be  laid  out  to  the  Tanana 
and  thence  to  the  Yukon.  This  route  from  Cook  Inlet  to  the  Yukon 
would  be  excellent  for  a  wagon  road  or  railway,  there  being  no  ob- 
stacles to  overcome  by  engineering,  nor  any  high  mountains  to  cross. 

A  route  long  known  and  occasionally  traveled,  especially  by  natives, 
leads  from  the  Kuskokwim  above  Kolmakof  to  Xushagak  by  way  of 
the  Holiknuk  and  the  Nushagak  rivers.  The  Holiknuk  is  said  to 
have  an  extraordinarily  crooked  course  in  its  lower  part. 


38  MAPS    AND    DESCRIPTIONS    OF    ALASKA. 

The  so-called  portage  to  the  Yukon  from  the  Kuskokwim  is  in  reality 
a  water  route  which  leaves  the  Kuskokwim  at  the  native  village  of 
Kalihaganiut.  'i'he  total  length  of  the  route  is  (iG  miles,  although 
the  air- line  distance  between  the  rivers  is  only  20  miles.  The  country 
is  all  clay  and  gravel,  and  the  highest  bank  crossed  on  the  portages  is 
40  feet.  The  relative  elevation  of  the  Kuskokwim  and  Yukon  rivers 
h;is  not  been  determined,  but  enough  has  been  seen  to  warrant  the 
possibility  of  opening  a  water  route.  The  current  of  the  Kuskokwim 
being  less  than  that  of  the  Yukon,  the  presumption  is  that,  if  diverted, 
the  Yukon  would  tlow  toward  the  Kuskokwim.  The  latter  river  is 
free  of  ice  nearly  two  weeks  earlier  than  the  Yukon,  and  the  lower 
Bering  Se;i  is  comparatively  open  while  St.  Michael  is  still  blocked. 
If,  therefore,  supplies  could  be  brought  in  by  way  of  the  Kuskokwim 
and  thence  across  by  the  water  route  to  the  Yukon,  there  would  be 
many  advantages.  The  following  table  gives  the  saving  in  distance 
of  the  new  route,  the  distances  being  taken  from  Unimak  Pass. 

Yukon  route:  Miles. 

Unimak  Pass  to  St.  Michael 720 

St  Michael  to  Talbigsak  River 250 

Total 970 

Kuskokwim  route: 

Unimak  Pass  to  Groodnews  Bay 360 

Goodnews  Bay  to  Kalchagamut 230 

Kalchagamut  to  Talbigsak  River 60 

Total 650 

Difference  in  favor  of  Kuskokwim  route 320 

The  Togiak  River  is  probably  navigable  for  steamboats,  and  the 
Nushagak  is  likewise  navigable  for  probably  90  miles.  The  Kvichak 
Eiver,  the  outlet  of  Lake  Iliamna,  is  not  navigable  for  steamboats, 
but  small  boats  can  be  towed  up  it.  From  Nushagak  to  Katmai 
two  routes  are  used:  one  by  way  of  Naknek  River  and  Lake,  and 
thence  across  the  mountains  to  Katmai;  the  other  by  way  of  Igagik 
Eiver  and  Becharof  Lake  to  Cold  Bay,  and  from  these  along  the  coast 
to  Katmai. 

Table  of  distances  taken  along  route  followed  by  the  expedition  from 
Tyonek  to  Katmai. 

Miles. 

Tyonek 0 

Mouth  of  Sushitna  River 35 

Sushitna  Station 53 

Junction  Yentna  and  Sushitna 56 

Junction  Skwentna  and  Yentna 99 

Junction  Portage  Creek  and  Skwentna 164 

Summit  of  pass 179 


REPORT    OF   THE    KUSKOKWIM    EXPEDITION, 


39 


Miles. 

Junction  Styx  River  and  Kuskokwim 189 

Junction  East  Fork  and  Kuskokwim 296 

Vinasale 393 

Junction  Chagavenapuk  River 463 

Junction  Holiknuk  River 508 

Koiuiakof  Trading  Station 637 

Kalchagamut '706 

Oknavigamut 716 

Bethel '!'87 

Warehouse 865 

Kwinhagamut 880 

Beginning  of  portage  from  Kanektok  to  Togiak 983 

Togiak  Lake 1,006 

Mouth  of  Togiak  River 1,061 

Togiak 1,067 

Head  of  Kululuk  Bay 1,108 

Mouth  of  Egoushik  River 1,203 

Nushagak 1,223 

Naknek 1,303 

Savonoski 1,376 

Katmai 1,425 

Magnetic  variations,  ^  southioestern  Alaska,  1898. 


Lat.  (NO   Long.  (W.) 


61  10 

61  58 

62  00 
61  59 

61  59 

62  00 
61  59 
61  81.5 
61  26 
61  17 
60  53.5 

60  47 

60  35 
60  09 
59  46 
59  53 
r.9  48 
59  07 
58  56 
58  48 
58  33.5 
58  04 


151  10 

152  40 
152  46 

152  57 

153  01 
153  04 

153  05 
160  42 
160  46 

160  45 

161  18 

161  52 

162  16 
162  15 
162  01 
160  15 
159  59.5 
159  28 
158  27 
156  35 
155  27 

154  53 


Place. 


Date. 


Tyonek 

On  Skwentna  River 
On  Portage  Creek. . 
On  Portage  Creek. . 
Near  pass 

Do 

Do 

Kuskokwim  River . 

Do  

Do 

Do 

Bethel 

Kuskokwim  Bay. . . 

Apokagamut 

Kwinhagamut 

Kagati  Lake 

On  portage 

Oallek  Lake 

Nushagak 

Naknek  Lake 

Savonoski 

Katmai 


May 

July 

July 

July 

July 

July 

July 

Aug. 

Aug. 

Aug. 

Aug. 

Aug 

Aug. 

Aug. 

Aug. 

Aug. 

Sept. 

Sept. 

Sept. 

Oct. 

Oct. 

Oct. 

Oct. 


1 

5.  9 

6,  1 
12,  8 
14 

15,  8 

16,  2 


t, 
7. 
8, 
9, 
10. 

10,  6 
30, 
22, 
24,  11 

8,    1 
12, 
22,    6 

3,  10 

11,  5 
13,  3 
33,  11 


a.  m. 
p.  m. 
p.  m. 

p.  m. 
p.  m. 
p  m. 
p.  m. 
p.  m. 
noon 
noon 
p.  m. 
noon 
noon 
a.  m. 
p.  m. 
noon 
p.m. 
a.  m. 
p.m. 
p.m. 
a.m. 


Variation. 

(E.) 


37  15 
27  20 
27  19 
26  58 
26  29 
25  58 
25  45 
23  51 
23  50 
25  37 

20  22 

21  14 
21  20 

20  44 

21  25 

20  38 

21  14 
23  01 
23  13 
25  03 
34  53 

33  56 

34  33 


'  Observed  with  a  transit  reading  to  1  .    Results  ±  5'  about. 


EEP(^HT  ON   THE   KEGION   BETWEEN   EESUREECTION 
BAY   AND  THE  TAN  AN  A   RIVER/ 


Bv  "W.  C.  Mendknhall. 


INTRODUCTION. 


As  f!:eolopst  attached  to  IMilitary  Expedition  No.  3,  commanded  by 
Capt.  E.  F.  Glenn,  I  had  opportunity  during  the  last  summer  to 
examine  geologically  the  shores  about  the  western  end  of  Prince 
William  Sound  and  a  belt  of  country  extending  from  Resurrection 
Bay,  on  the  eastern  side  of  Kenai  Peninsula,  to  the  Tanana  River  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Delta  River.  Incidentally  the  accompanying  maps, 
covering  a  route  which  lay  almost  wholly  within  hitherto  unexplored 
territory,  were  prepared. 

The  trip  across  Kenai  Peninsula  was  made  very  early  in  June, 
before  the  snow  had  entirely  disappeared,  and  that  from  Turnagain 
Arm  to  Knik  Arm  late  in  the  same  month.  Both  of  these  were  pack- 
ing trips,  each  member  of  the  party  carrying  his  provisions  and  bed- 
ding, and  gathering  such  scientific  data  as  circumstances  permitted. 

The  main  expedition  from  Knik  trading  post  to  the  Tanana  River 
was  begun  on  July  23,  and  the  party  returned  to  Knik  on  the  24th  of 
September,  having  traveled  about  675  miles  by  trail  in  two  months. 
This  trip,  although  hurried,  was  made  under  more  favorable  condi- 
tions for  scientific  work  than  the  earlier  shorter  ones,  since  the  pack 
train  relieved  the  explorer  of  the  embarrassing  necessity  of  carrying 
on  his  own  back  food,  blankets,  and  instruments. 

The  route  lay  up  the  Matanuska  Valley  nearly  to  its  head,  then 
north  up  Hicks  Creek,  across  the  head  of  Caribou,  and  out  into  the 
valley  of  Bubb  Creek,  one  of  the  upper  tributaries  of  Taxlina  River. 
Here  we  found  ourselves  north  of  the  coastal  mountains  and  at  the 
southern  edge  of  a  plateau  basin  with  a  level  floor  which  stretched  to 
the  Alaskan  Mountains,  100  miles  by  trail  to  the  north.  By  the  21st 
of  August  we  were  on  northward-flowing  waters,  which  later  proved 
to  belong  to  the  Delta  River.  This  stream  led  us  by  an  easy  route 
through  the  Alaskan  Range.  A  week  later,  when  within  the  Tanana 
Valley  and  about  10  miles  from  the  river  itself,  we  turned  back.  The 
return  journey  was  made  more  rapidly,  and  followed  in  the  main  the 
same  course  which  we  had  established  when  outbound,  until  Bubb 
Creek  was  reached.  Here  we  left  our  old  trail  to  the  west  and  entered 
Matanuska  Valley  at  its  head,  picking  up  the  old  line  again  at  the 
mouth  of  Hicks  Creek.  Seven  days  more  of  travel  and  we  were  back 
at  salt  water. 

*  See  map  No.  6,  in  accompanjring:  envelope. 
40 


BETWEEN    RESURRECTION    BAY    AND    TANANA    RIVER.  41 

GEOGRAPHY   AND   TOPOGRAPHY. 
COOK  INLET  AND  PRINCE  WILLIAM  SOUND. 

Prince  William  Sound,  formerly  called  Chugach  Gulf,  and  Cook 
Inlet  are  the  two  most  important  indentations  of  the  Alaskan  coast 
line  west  of  the  Alexander  Archipelago.  The  former  lies  between  the 
meridians  of  146°  and  149°  west  from  Greenwich.  It  has  a  very- 
irregular  shore  line,  insuring  excellent  harbors,  and  a  broad  sea  con- 
nection. Its  narrow  inland  extensions  are  fiord-like,  with  deep  water 
open  all  the  year  round,  and  safe  anchorages.  The  interior,  however, 
is  not  accessible  from  the  sound — except  at  its  eastern  and  western 
extremities,  Port  Valdez  and  Portage  Bay — because  of  a  high  moun- 
tain barrier  to  the  north . 

Cook  Inlet,  separated  from  Prince  William  Sound  by  Kenai  Penin- 
sula, is  about  200  miles  long  from  the  entrance  at  Cape  Elizabeth  to 
the  head  of  Knik  Arm,  and  contrasts  in  many  ways  with  the  more 
easterly  bay.  Its  tides  are  very  high  at  the  head,  the  flood  running 
in  with  a  bore  which  is  a  serious  menace  to  the  safety  of  small  craft. 
The  precipitation  along  its  shores  is  much  less  than  in  Prince  William 
Sound,  so  that  snow  is  never  so  deep  and  does  not  cover  the  ground 
so  late  in  the  spring;  and  because  of  the  lighter  snowfall,  timber  is 
more  abundant  and  the  timber  line  is  higher.  Several  large  streams 
enter  the  head  of  the  inlet,  whereas  none  of  any  consequence  flow  into 
the  sound;  and  these  streams  carry  quantities  of  sediment,  which 
transforms  the  head  of  the  inlet  into  a  series  of  deltas  and  mud  flats 
unfavorable  for  navigation.  But  the  valleys  of  these  rivers  offer  easy 
highways  to  the  interior.  Prince  William  Sound  is  open  to  naviga- 
tion throughout  the  year,  but  Cook  Inlet  is  closed  above  East  Foreland 
for  five  months  by  ice.  Its  climate,  however,  during  the  summer 
months  is  very  pleasant,  and  warm  enough  to  permit  of  the  growth  of 
many  hardy  vegetables  and  cereals.  Its  shores  present  more  favorable 
agricultural  conditions  than  most  other  parts  of  Alaska. 

GENERAL  TOPOGRAPHY. 

Kenai  Peninsula  is  a  rough  mountain  mass,  with  a  very  irregular 
coast  line  and  a  broad  lowland  on  one  side  only  —  the  northwest.  In 
other  directions  its  shores  rise  abruptly,  often  precipitously,  from  the 
ocean,  but  from  Kachemak  Bay  to  the  lower  part  of  Turnagain  Arm 
a  gravel- covered  platform  intervenes  between  the  mountain  backbone 
and  the  water  of  Cook  Inlet.  This  platform  varies  from  a  few  to  sev- 
eral hundred  feet  above  sea  level,  is  gently  rolling  or  flat-topped,  and 
heavily  timbered  and  moss-covered.  Across  it  from  the  interior  flow 
the  largest  rivers  of  the  peninsula — the  Kussilof,  which  drains  Lake 
Tustumena,  and  the  Kenai,  which  drains  Lakes  Sillokh  and  Kenai, 
and   heads  near  the  eastern  shore  of  the  peninsula,   northwest  of 


42  MAPS    AND    DESCRIPTIONS    OF    ALASKA. 

Kosiirrection  Ray.  Other  streams  of  importance  are  Chickaloon, 
Resurrection,  and  Sixmile  creeks,  flowing  into  Turnagain  Arm,  and 
that  other  Resnrre<'tion  Creek  which  empties  into  the  bay  of  the  same 
name  and  wliich  illustrates  so  well  the  confusion  often  resulting  from 
prospectors'  nomenclature. 

Kenai  Peninsula  is  connected  with  the  mainland  by  an  isthmus 
about  V2  miles  wide,  separating  the  waters  of  Portage  Bay  from  those 
of  Turnagain  Arm.  Five  miles  of  this  isthmus  is  covered  by  a  glacier, 
which  flows  down  from  the  high  summits  to  the  south;  the  remainder 
is  gravel  delta,  about  1  mile  on  the  east  and  0  miles  on  the  west  side. 

}s'orthward  on  the  mainland  the  mountains  of  the  peninsula  con- 
tinue, swinging  eastward  across  the  Copper  River  to  their  culmination 
in  the  St.  Elias  group.  The  Sushitna  River  empties  into  Cook  Inlet 
from  a  course  entirely  to  the  west  of  these  mountains,  while  the 
Matanuska  Valley  crosses  them  from  the  Copper  River  plateau,  sepa- 
rating a  minor  group  from  the  main  mass  to  the  east. 

The  northern  limit  of  the  St.  Elias  system  is  but  little  less  definite 
than  the  southern.  It  breaks  down  abruptly  at  the  head  of  the 
Matannska  River,  and  a  broad,  gently  rolling,  gravel  floored  plateau 
stretches  thence  75  miles  northward  to  the  foothills  of  the  Alaskan 
Mountains.  On  this  plateau,  which  is  covered  with  a  maze  of  lakes 
and  marshes,  the  eastern  tributaries  of  the  Sushitna  and  the  western 
branches  of  the  Copper  rise.  Eastward  the  plateau  basin  is  cut  by 
the  trench  of  the  Copper  River  and  limited  by  the  Mount  Wrangell 
group.  Westward  its  surface  becomes  more  diversified,  until  it 
merges  with  the  hill  country  of  the  Middle  Sushitna. 

Approaching  the  Alaskan  Mountains  from  the  south  across  this 
interior  plateau,  the  explorer  crosses  two  preliminary  groups  of  foot- 
hills before  reaching  the  main  range.  By  our  route  the  first  of  these 
was  encountered  just  after  leaving  Gakona  River.  It  lies  between  the 
head  waters  of  the  Gakona  and  Chistochina,  and  averages  only  1,000 
or  1,500  feet  higher  than  the  valleys  of  these  streams.  Separating 
these  hills  from  the  next  group  to  the  north  is  the  valley  of  the  upper 
Chistochina,  10  or  20  miles  in  width,  gravel -floored,  and  containing, 
like  the  greater  plateau  to  the  south,  a  large  number  of  small  lakes. 
Through  this  second  range  of  hills,  more  regular  and  continuous  than 
the  first,  broad  gaps  at  about  the  level  of  the  valleys  are  conspicuous. 

The  Delta  River  heads  to  the  south  of  these  hills  in  a  chain  of 
beautiful  winding  lakes,  flows  through  a  water  gap  east  of  Land  Mark 
Gap,  across  another  belt  of  open  country,  and  then  enters  the  Alaskan 
Mountains  proper. 

This  great  range  stretches,  with  interruptions,  from  the  St.  Elias 
Mountains  near  the  head  of  White  River  westward,  along  the  divide 
between  the  Tanana  on  the  north  and  the  Copper  and  Sushitna  rivers 
on  the  south,  to  the  Mount  McKinley  group,  west  of  the  latter 


BETWEEN    RESUERECTION    BAY    AND    TAN  ANA    RIVER.  43 

stream.  The  range  is  a  series  of  lofty,  isolated  mountain  masses 
rather  than  a  definite  and  continuous  chain.  It  is  characterized  by 
broad  pjisses  at  an  elevation  of  about  2,700  feet,  and  the  groups 
between  these  passes  reach  heights  of  10,000  to  1.5,000  feet.  By  the 
Delta  Eiver  route  the  width  of  the  range  north  and  south  is  about  35 
miles,  and  immediately  after  passing  through  it  the  traveler  enters 
the  broad  valley  of  the  Tanana  River,  which  separates  the  Alaskan 
Mountains  from  the  Ketchumstock  and  Tanana  hills,  farther  to  the 
north . 

ROUTES. 

An  investigation  in  early  April  revealed  the  fact  that  between 
Portage  Bay  and  Port  Valdez  there  is  no  practicable  route  northward 
from  Prince  William  Sound  to  the  interior,  that  body  of  water  being 
bounded  in  this  direction  by  an  extremely  rough  mountain  barrier 
without  passes  and  with  culminating  peaks  10,000  feet  high.  From 
Portage  Bay,  the  most  easterly  extension  of  Prince  William  Sound 
waters,  an  easy  winter  trail  exists  across  the  isthmus  to  the  head  of 
Cook  Inlet.  During  the  summer  this  route  is  not  used  because  at  that 
time  the  waters  of  Cook  Inlet  are  open  and  navigable  for  sea-going 
vessels. 

From  Resurrection  Bay  about  halfway  down  the  southeastern  shore 
of  Kenai  Peninsula — Resurrection  Bay  itself  being  a  harbor  that  is 
open  winter  as  well  as  summer — there  is  easy  access  to  the  interior 
of  the  peninsula.  A  trail  has  been  established  up  the  valley  of 
Salmon  Creek,  and  thence  across  a  low  divide  to  Snow  River,  which 
empties  into  Lake  Kenai.  From  Lake  Kenai  the  Sunrise  City  mining 
district  may  be  reached  either  by  going  up  Trail  Creek,  which  enters 
the  lake  near  its  eastern  end,  and  thence  crossing  to  the  head  of 
Bench  Creek,  a  tributaty  of  the  east  fork  of  Sixmile,  or  by  going  up 
the  valley  of  Quartz  Creek,  a  tributary  which  enters  Lake  Kenai  near 
its  lower  or  western  end,  and  crossing  to  the  head  of  Canyon  Creek. 
The  latter  of  these  routes  is  the  shorter  from  Lake  Kenai,  but  neither 
of  them  offers  serious  obstacles  to  the  construction  of  either  a  pack  trail 
or,  if  need  ever  should  arise,  a  railroad  line.  The  divides  in  both 
instances  are  low,  standing  at  an  elevation  of  something  less  than 
1,500  feet  above  sea  level,  and  very  broad  and  flat.  At  present  a 
part  of  this  route  from  Resurrection  Bay  to  Turnagain  Arm  is  by 
water,  there  being  no  trail  constructed  around  Lake  Kenai.  The 
building  of  a  trail  along  the  shores  of  this  lake  would  be  somewhat 
difficult,  since  the  shores  are  steep  and  are  subject  to  destructive 
snow-slides  in  spring.  After  reaching  the  head  of  the  Sixmile  drain- 
age by  either  of  these  routes,  the  traveler  finds  fair  trails  already 
established  by  the  miners  at  work  on  the  waters  of  this  stream. 

From  Juneau  Creek,  which  enters  Kenai  River  from  the  north,  just 


44  MAIJS    AND    DESCRIPTIONS    OF    ALASKA. 

below  the  outlet  of  the  lake,  a  route  is  reported  across  the  divide  to 
the  north  into  the  basin  of  Resurrection  Creek,  thence  down  this  creek 
to  Hope  rity  at  its  mouth.  Before  the  trail  down  tSixmile  Creek  was 
established,  pack  trains  with  supplies  for  the  miners  on  Canyon  Creek 
went  from  Ho]>e  City  up  Resurrection  Creek  to  Pass  Creek  near  its 
head,  and  then  climbed  through  the  low  divide  to  the  head  of  Summit 
Creek,  which  enters  Canyon  Creek  in  the  heart  of  the  mining  district. 

From  Turnagain  Arm  northwestward  to  Knik  Arm  at  least  two 
overland  routes  are  available  at  present.  One  of  these  is  by  way  of 
Indian  Creek  and  is  reported  to  be  very  short  and  to  offer  no  serious 
obstacles.  The  other,  which  appears  on  the  map  (N^o.  C>),  is  from  the 
head  of  Turnagain  Arm  by  way  of  the  valley  of  Glacier  Creek,  and 
leads  over  a  rather  high  divide — 3,750  feet  above  sea  level — to  the 
upper  waters  of  Yukla  Creek.  This  stream  enters  Knik  Arm  almost 
due  south  from  the  North  American  Trading  and  Transportation 
Company's  station. 

The  route  from  the  head  of  Cook  Inlet  to  the  Tanana,  which  was 
examined  last  summer,  while  probably  longer  than  the  one  by 
way  of  Valdez  Inlet  and  Copper  River,  is  perfectly  feasible  for  the 
establishment  of  a  trail  or  railroad,  which  would  pass  up  the  valley 
of  the  Matanuska  to  a  3, 000- foot  divide  at  its  head.  The  approach 
to  this  divide,  however,  is  at  least  100  miles  long,  and  gives  ample 
distance  for  overcoming  the  elevation.  After  passing  from  the  valley 
of  the  Matanuska  to  the  interior  plateau,  no  obstacles  of  importance 
are  encountered  until  the  foothills  of  the  Alaskan  Range,  75  miles  to 
the  north,  are  reached.  Here  a  short  climb  of  400  or  500  feet  out  of 
Gakona  River  Valley  must  be  made  in  order  to  reach  the  head  waters 
of  the  Tanana  drainage.  Probably  by  swinging  eastward  or  westward 
from  this  interior  plateau  other  routes  may  be  found  down  other 
branches  of  the  Tanana  which  will  possess  special  advantages,  depend- 
ing upon  the  point  at  which  it  is  desired  to  reach  the  latter  stream. 
Along  practically  the  entire  distance  from  Cook  Inlet  to  the  Tanana 
sufficient  timber  is  found  for  furnishing  ties  and  fuel,  and  the  open 
character  of  the  valleys  and  of  the  interior  plateau  reduces  the  danger 
of  earth-  or  snow-slides  to  a  minimum.  It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  add 
that  over  any  route  which  permits  the  establishment  of  a  railroad  a 
pack  trail  can  be  built  at  comparatively  small  cost. 

METHODS   OF   TRAVEL. 

The  Sunrise  mining  district  may  be  reached  previous  to  the  Ist  of 
May  by  the  Portage  Bay  route  within  a  distance  of  40  miles,  or  by 
the  Resurrection  Bay  route  within  a  distance  of  90  miles,  from  open 
water;  before  that  date  travel  is  wholly  by  sled  or  packing.  After 
May  1  steamers  reach  the  head  of  the  inlet  and  give  direct  access  to 
this  district.     The  interior  of  Kenai  Peninsula  is  also  reached  by  way 


BETWEEN    RESURRECTION    BAY    AND    TANANA    RIVER.  45 

of  Eesurrection  Bay  in  winter  by  sledding,  while  in  the  summer  sea- 
son it  can  be  approached  by  this  route  or  by  way  of  Sunrise  City, 
either  with  pack  animals  or  on  foot.  Small  boats  may  also  be  taken 
up  the  Kenai  or  Kussilof  rivers  by  tracking,  but  this  method  is  very 
laborious  and  slow. 

At  present  the  best  methods  of  reaching  the  interior  from  the  head 
of  Cook  Inlet  are  by  sledding  up  the  rivers  in  the  winter  months,  and 
by  the  use  of  pack  trains  in  the  summer  season.  Pack  animals  will 
be  able  to  live  off  the  native  grasses  during  June,  July,  August,  and 
a  part  of  September.  Often  all  of  the  latter  month  may  be  relied 
upon  on  the  coast  side  of  the  mountains,  but  north  of  this  range 
freezing  begins  in  August,  and  the  grasses  then  rapidly  lose  their 
nutritive  value.  The  Tanana  Eiver  at  the  mouth  of  the  Delta  can  be 
reached  from  Knik  in  a  month  of  rapid  traveling;  but  in  order  to 
insure  the  arrival  of  the  stock  in  good  condition  thirty- five  days  at 
least  should  be  estimated  for  the  trip.  Horses  seem  better  adapted 
for  this  work  than  mules,  because  of  considerable  areas  of  soft  ground 
which  must  be  crossed;  in  these  areas  and  in  the  mossy  tracts  the 
smaller  feet  of  the  mule  are  a  decided  disadvantage.  Pack  animals 
should  be  chosen  which  have  been  reared  on  the  range  and  are  accus- 
tomed to  depending  entirely  upon  grass  for  a  living. 

Heretofore  supplies  have  been  taken  short  distances  up  the  Matanuska 
Eiver  in  boats,  but  the  stream  is  so  full  of  shoals  and  so  swift  that 
tracking,  which  is  the  only  possible  way  of  making  progress  upstream, 
is  too  slow  and  is  attended  with  too  many  possibilities  of  loss  to  be 
regarded  as  practicable. 

GENERAL   GEOLOGY. 
SUNRISE  SERIES. 

About  the  western  end  of  Prince  William  Sound,  the  northern  part 
of  Kenai  Peninsula,  and  the  adjacent  mainland  the  rocks  are  dark 
slates  and  gray  tufaceous  sandstones  or  arkoses.  They  have  been 
altered  somewhat,  developing  a  cleavage  in  the  slates  and  a  joining 
in  the  more  massive  beds.  At  least  two  systems  of  quartz  veins  occur 
in  the  harder  rocks,  usually  very  thin,  and,  so  far  as  observed,  never 
persisting  across  the  boundary  into  the  slates.  Quartz  occurs  also  in 
pockets,  which  may  locally  reach  several  feet  in  thickness,  and  some- 
times at  least  are  mineralized.  The  rocks  contain  a  few  thin  diabase 
dikes  and  more  numerous  highly  altered  acid  dikes,  originally  prob- 
ably aplites.  These  latter  in  some  instances  carry  gold,  introduced 
probably  at  the  time  of  the  great  metasomatic  alteration  to  which  they 
have  been  subjected. 

Age. — ISTo  fossils  have  been  found  in  these  rocks,  but  from  their 
relations  to  the  Matanuska  series,  described  below,  it  seems  probable 
that  they  are  pre- Cretaceous. 


46  MAPS    AND    DESCRIPTIONS    OF    ALASKA. 

MATANUSKA  SKRIES. 

Throu«;hnut  the  ^ratanuska  and  the  upper  part  of  Taxlina  valleys 
the  rot'ks,  wherever  examined,  proved  to  be  unaltered  or  but  slightly 
altered  sediments;  shales — red,  black,  and  bufif — predominate,  but 
some  limestones,  sandstones,  and  conglomerates  occur.  Of  the  latter, 
that  forming  Castle  Mountain  is  by  far  the  most  imposing  bed, 
measuring  probably  1,000  feet  in  thickness.  Bedded  limestones  were 
noted  at  but  one  point,  and  that  the  most  northerly  reached,  on  the 
head  waters  of  Bubb  Creek;  here  a  shallow  syncline  brings  a  stratum 
of  gray  limestone  200  to  400  feet  in  thickness  down  to  the  hilltops. 
Beds  of  limestone  concretions  are  sometimes  found  in  the  shales. 

The  strike  of  the  series,  although  interrupted  by  many  minor 
structures,  is  generally  parallel  to  the  mountan  range  and  to  the  val- 
ley of  the  Matanuska  Eiver — i.  e.,  about  X.  70°  E.  Dips  vary 
greatly,  but  are  usually  away  from  the  coast,  and  steepest  as  the  latter 
is  approached.  Many  faults  of  unknown  but  probably  slight  throw, 
and  light  folds,  make  an  accurate  estimate  of  thickness  with  the  data 
in  hand  impossible,  but  (>,000  feet  is  probably  a  safe  minimum 
estimate.  The  slight  evidence  gathered  favors  the  theory  of  an  over- 
lap of  the  Matanuska  series  upon  the  older  Sunrise  series  to  the  south. 

Age. — A  few  fossils  collected  at  the  base  of  the  limestone  bed  men- 
tioned above  are  pronounced  by  Mr.  Stanton  to  be  Lower  Cretaceous. 
The  relation  of  this  bed  to  the  rest  of  the  Matanuska  series  indicates 
that  the  latter  can  not  well  be  younger. 

GREENSTONE  SERIES. 

Across  the  interior  basin,  in  the  first  line  of  foothills  of  the  Alaskan 
Eange,  a  series  of  green  schists,  diabases,  and  augite-diorites  is  found. 
The  schists  are  probably  derived  from  the  diabases  in  some  instances  at 
least,  but  are  now  highly  altered  and  contain  much  secondary  quartz, 
chiefly  in  veins.  There  is  at  present  no  evidence  available  as  to  their 
age,  and  so  far  as  known  they  have  no  economic  value. 

XANANA  SERIES. 

Along  the  lower  valley  of  the  Delta  Eiver,  through  the  heart  of  the 
Alaskan  Eange,  the  rocks  are  chiefly  quartz-schists.  Their  alteration 
is  so  complete  that  except  for  a  few  narrow  graphitic  bands  their 
original  character  would  be  in  doubt;  but  this  belt  indicates  their 
clastic  origin.  They  have  been  intruded  at  several  periods  by  both  acid 
and  basic  dikes;  they  have  highly  developed  schistosity,  and  carry 
two  or  more  series  of  quartz  veins.  The  older  series  has  been  much 
squeezed  and  broken,  while  the  younger  is  one  of  the  latest  phenomena. 
Accompanying  the  quartz  veins  is  a  high  degree  of  mineralization, 
sulphurets  in  variety  and  abundance  occurring.  Analyses  of  samples 
taken  from  these  mineralized  zones  failed  to  show  gold,  and  pannings 


BETWEEN    RESURRECTION    BAY    AND    1 ANANA    RIVER.  47 

of  side  tributaries  whose  gravels  were  derived  entirely  from  the  schists 
were  likewise  unproduclive  of  results,  although  as  much  as  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  sulphurets  was  caught  in  the  pan. 

Between  the  areas  occupied  by  the  greenstones  and  the  schists  is  a 
narrow  belt  of  rhyolites  and  derived  fragmentary  material. 

KNOWN    GOLD    DISTRICTS. 

Turnagain  Arm. — Of  the  formations  described  above,  the  only  ones 
known  to  carry  gold  are  the  Sunrise  and  the  Matanuska  series.  The 
productive  portion  of  the  former,  so  far  as  now  known,  occupies  a  small 
portion  of  the  northern  end  of  Kenai  Peninsula  and  a  limited  belt 
along  the  mainland  north  of  Turnagain  Arm.  So  far,  within  this 
district  only  placer  diggings  have  been  developed,  although  within  the 
last  season  a  few  quartz  claims  have  been  staked.  Whether  or  not 
they  will  prove  to  have  sufficient  value  to  justify  development  is  a 
question  that  only  the  future  can  answer. 

The  placer  values  within  the  district  are  not  high,  ranging  from  $2 
or  f  3  a  day  to  the  man  to  as  high  as  $120  in  exceptionally  rich  ground 
near  the  mouth  of  Mill  Creek,  one  of  the  upper  tributaries  of  Sixmile. 
So  far  the  work  has  been  confined  entirely  to  sluicing  and  wing- 
damming,  although  hydraulic  work  will  probably  be  done  in  the  near 
future. 

Matanuska  Valley. — The  rocks  of  the  Lower  Matanuska  Valley  are 
known  to  contain  gold,  but  the  region  has  not  been  systematically 
developed  and  no  definite  idea  has  been  gathered  as  to  the  quantity. 
A  quartz  vein  on  Lower  Chickaloon  Creek  is  reported  to  have  assayed 
|6  or  $7  to  the  ton,  and  washings  in  the  lower  course  of  Schoonoven 
Creek  have  yielded  values  equivalent  to  $2  or  $3  a  day  to  the  man. 
This  gold  probably  has  genetic  connection  with  a  series  of  diabase 
dikes  which  intrude  the  sediments  of  the  valley  in  the  neighborhood 
of  Chickaloon  Creek. 

General  gravel  sheet. — Surrounding  the  northern  end  of  Cook  Inlet 
is  a  broad  belt  of  lowland  covered  by  gravels  varying  in  depth  from  a 
few  feet  to  a  few  hundred  feet,  which  probably  represent  delta  deposits 
at  a  period  when  the  land  stood  much  lower  than  it  does  at  present. 
These  gravels  extend  well  inland  up  the  various  tributaries  of  Cook 
Inlet,  and  are  again  encountered  across  the  divide  at  the  head  of 
Matanuska  Eiver  in  the  interior  plateau.  They  floor  this  plateau  to 
unknown  depths  from  the  northern  base  of  the  Coast  Range  to  the 
southern  base  of  the  Alaskan  Range.  They  fill  the  valleys  between 
the  foothills  of  the  latter,  and  are  found  again  in  full  development 
on  the  head  of  the  Delta  River.  North  of  the  Alaskan  Mountains 
moral  nal  gra\  el  is  distributed  as  far  as  the  Tanana. 

This  general  sheet  everywhere  seems  to  carry  small  quantities  of 
gold,  and  as  practically  all  streams  examined  flow  for  at  least  a  part 

4- Alaska. 


48  MAPS    AND    DESCKIPTIONS    OF   ALASKA. 

of  their  courses  through  it,  they  yield  colors  (flakes  of  gold)  to  the 
prospector  wherever  he  may  pan.  These  colors  are  very  puzzling, 
since  it  is  impossible  to  tell,  without  a  knowledge  of  the  distribution 
of  the  gravel,  whether  they  may  have  been  derived  from  it  or  directly 
from  rock  in  place;  but  the  ordinary  prospector,  finding  fine  colors 
on  the  lower  course  of  a  river,  naturally  supposes  that  the  gold  has 
been  derived  from  rock  in  place  near  the  head  of  the  stream,  and 
plans  accordingly.  This  supposition  often  proves  to  be  entirely 
erroneous  and  leads  to  serious  loss  in  individual  cases.  As  a  general 
rule  it  may  be  said  that  prospecting,  to  yield  any  reliable  information 
as  to  the  gold  content  of  the  country  rock,  should  be  conducted  well 
up  in  the  heads  of  the  tributaries,  and  the  miner  should  be  certain 
that  he  is  beyond  the  limit  of  the  gravel  sheet. 

COAL. 

The  sediments  of  Matanuska  Valley  carry  coal  which,  judged  from 
the  thin  seams  examined  at  one  or  two  points,  is  of  very  fair  steam- 
producing  quality.  Mr.  Hicks,  guide  of  the  expedition,  reports  coal 
up  Chickaloon  Creek,  and  a  bed  6  feet  thick  on  a  small  stream,  called 
Coal  Creek,  which  enters  the  Matanuska  opposite  the  mouth  of  the 
Chickaloon.  North  of  the  valley  of  the  latter  stream  several  dark 
streaks  were  noticed  in  the  mountain  side  west  of  the  valley,  which 
probably  represent  outcrops  of  coal  beds,  since  fragments  of  bright 
hard  coal  were  found  below  these  outcrops  in  the  gullies.  In  the 
valley  of  Bubb  Creek,  which  belongs  to  the  Copper  Eiver  drainage 
system,  seams  of  coal  a  few  inches  thick  were  noted  at  a  few  points. 
Whether  or  not  beds  of  sufficient  thickness  to  prove  even  locally 
valuable  occur  in  this  part  of  the  series  can  be  determined  only  by 
further  and  more  detailed  exploration. 

TIMBER   AND   GRASS. 

On  Kenai  Peninsula  the  timber  line  stands  at  about  2,000  feet. 
Below  this,  spruce,  birch,  and  several  varieties  of  poplar  clothe  the 
slopes.  The  trees  are  small,  occasionally  reaching  a  diameter  of  4  feet 
near  the  ground,  but  averaging  probably  18  to  24  inches.  The  timber 
generally  has  no  value  aside  from  that  of  fuel,  being  wholly  inferior 
to  the  heavier  forests  found  farther  south  along  the  coast.  Toward 
the  interior  from  Cook  Inlet  the  timber  line  gradually  rises  with  the 
snow  line,  so  that  throughout  the  interior  basin,  which  stands  at  an 
elevation  of  nearly  3,000  feet,  scrubby  spruce  is  found.  A  larger  and 
better  quality  of  spruce  grows  in  thick  forests  along  the  lower  courses 
of  the  Delta  Eiver  and  other  tributaries  of  the  Tanana. 

Nutritious  grasses  grow  abundantly  in  the  birch  groves  of  the 
Matanuska  Valley,  and  coarser  varieties  fringe  the  shores  of  the  lakes 
and  ponds  of  the  interior  plateau.     Considerable  meadows  are  found 


BETWEEN    RESURRECTION    BAY    AND    TANANA    RIVER.  49 

along  the  valley  of  the  Delta  Eiver,  and.  nowhere  was  there  serious 
trouble  in  finding  plenty  of  grass  for  the  animals  of  the  pack  train. 

GAME. 

In  the  high  St.  Elias  Mountains  on  Kenai  Peninsula  and  the  main- 
land the  white  mountain  sheep  (Ovis  dalli)  is  found  in  great  numbers. 
It  has  as  yet  been  hunted  but  little  and  is  an  important  source  of  food 
for  the  prospector.  This  sheep  is  found  also,  but  apparently  in  less 
abundance,  in  the  Alaskan  Range. 

The  moose  is  plentiful  throughout  the  valleys  of  the  entire  region 
explored,  but  is  very  shy  and  difficult  to  obtain  by  the  inexperienced 
hunter.  Caribou  are  very  plentiful  in  the  foothills  of  both  the  Coast 
and  Alaskan  ranges.  They  select  the  hard,  dry  ground  above  timber 
line,  seldom  or  never  descending  into  the  valleys,  and  were  not  seen 
at  all  in  the  broad  interior  basin.  Although  their  distribution  is 
thus  somewhat  limited,  they  are  easy  of  approach,  and,  within  the 
districts  where  they  are  found  in  such  numbers,  form  an  important 
addition  to  the  explorer's  food  supply.  Brown  and  black  bear  may 
be  found  in  the  mountainous  districts  everywhere,  but  are  absent 
over  the  interior  plateau.  Fur-bearing  animals  occur  in  limited  and 
constantly  decreasing  numbers;  among  the  most  important  are  the 
silver-gray,  black,  red,  and  cross  fox,  the  wolverine,  the  otter,  the 
beaver,  and  the  gray  wolf.  Waterfowl  in  great  numbers  and  variety 
throng  the  tidal  marshes  of  the  coast  during  the  early  spring  and  late 
fall,  and  are  found  during  the  summer  season  on  the  innumerable 
lakes  of  the  interior  plateau.  Among  the  land  game  birds,  ptarmi- 
gan and  grouse  are  by  far  the  most  important,  the  former  frequenting 
the  untimbered  uplands  and  the  latter  living  in  more  or  less  abun- 
dance within  the  spruce  and  birch  forests  everywhere. 

CLIMATE. 

Along  the  coast  the  climate  is  remarkably  mild,  when  the  latitude  is 
considered.  As  far  north  as  Cook  Inlet  it  compares  very  well  with  that 
of  England  and  Scotland.  The  precipitation  in  Prince  William  Sound 
is  extremely  heavy,  and  in  early  April  we  found  snow  in  Portage  Bay 
from  6  to  7  feet  deep  on  the  level;  while  in  Cook  Inlet,  on  the  other 
hand,  which  is  sheltered  from  the  moisture-laden  winds  of  the  Japan 
Current  by  the  mountain  mass  of  Kenai  Peninsula,  precipitation  is 
very  much  lighter.  Here  no  frost  is  to  be  feared  from  the  Ist  of  June 
until  the  1st  of  September,  and  the  temperature  gets  quite  high  enough 
to  mature  the  hardier  vegetables.  Passing  up  the  Matanuska  Valley 
through  the  Coast  Range,  however,  the  traveler  notes  a  great  change. 
The  equable  climate  of  the  coast  yields  to  a  climate  of  great  extremes 
just  within  the  Coast  Range.  The  summers  are  very  short  and  uncom- 
fortably hot,  and  the  winters  long  and  severe;  the  snowfall  is  not 


50  MAPS    AND    DKSCRIPnONS    OK    ALASKA. 

great,  seldom  reaching  more  than  18  inches.  The  summers  from  the 
1st  of  May  until  about  the  Ist  of  July  are  relatively  dry;  then  a  rainy 
season  sets  in,  usually  lasting  thn-e  or  four  weeks.  Following  this, 
before  snowfall  begins,  is  a  period  of  bright,  clear,  cool  autumn 
weather,  which  is  the  best  time  of  the  entire  season  for  work,  since 
the  insect  pests  have  then  disappeared. 

AGRICULTURE. 

A  few  experiments  have  been  conducted  in  Cook  Inlet  in  the  raising 
of  the  hardier  grains  and  vegetables.  Last  year  potatoes  sufhcient  to 
partially  supply  the  Sunrise  City  mining  district  were  raised  at 
Tyonek.  Lettuce,  turnips,  and  radishes  of  excellent  quality  were 
also  grown,  and  rye  has  been  reported  to  have  been  raised  successfully 
in  the  past.  Some  hardy  varieties  of  wheat  were  sown  this  fall,  and 
there  seems  no  reason  why  this  important  food  plant  should  not 
mature  here.  The  Russians  have  successfully  raised  cattle,  the  abun- 
dant meadows  of  natural  grass  furnishing  pasture  during  the  summer 
and  hay  for  the  winter  months.  In  the  interior  the  greater  severity 
of  the  winter  and  the  shorter  growing  season  make  it  improbable  that 
anything  except  the  very  hardiest  vegetables  can  ever  be  raised. 

INHABITANTS. 

Five  hundred  to  a  thousand  white  men,  usually  prospectors  and 
claim  owners,  generally  winter  about  the  head  of  Cook  Inlet.  This 
number  is  more  than  doubled  during  the  summer;  but  this  population 
is  essentially  transient,  and  the  great  majority  of  the  prospectors 
never  penetrate  more  than  30  or  40  miles  from  the  coast. 

The  native  inhabitants  are  assembled  in  colonies  at  Tyonek,  Ladds 
Station,  and  Knik.  They  do  not  number,  all  told,  more  than  a  few 
hundred  souls,  and  this  number  is  constantly  diminishing  through 
pulmonary  complaints.  In  character  they  are  gentle,  harmless,  and 
surprisingly  honest.  Along  the  route  which  we  followed  to  the 
interior  very  few  Indians  were  seen,  chiefly  because  our  line  of  travel 
lay  along  the  divides,  while  the  permanent  homes  of  the  Indians  are 
found  along  the  great  waterways,  which  are  their  lines  of  travel.  Two 
hundred  and  seventy-five  miles  from  Knik  we  met  a  small  band  of 
Upper  Copper  River  Indians  on  a  hunting  trip  along  the  head  waters 
of  the  Delta  River,  and  another  band  was  encountered  near  the  same 
point  on  the  return  trip.  A  Matauuska  Indian  village  is  situated  on 
a  small  lake  draining  into  Taxlina  River  I'car  the  head  of  the 
Matanuska,  and  smoke  from  the  hunting  lodges  of  members  of  this 
tribe  was  noticed  at  several  points  along  the  lower  course  of  Bubb 
Creek. 


EEPOET  ON   PRINCE  WILLIAM  SOUND   AND   THE 
COPPER  RIVER   REGION/ 


Bv  F.    C     SCHRADER. 


ITINERARY. 


The  United  States  Army  Copper  River  Alaskan  Expedition  No.  2, 
of  1898,  to  which  the  writer  was  attached,  left  Seattle  on  the  steamship 
Valencia  April  7  and  landed  at  Port  Valdez,  Alaska,  on  April  19.  At 
the  beach  the  snow  was  6^  feet  deep,  and  our  tents  were  pitched  in 
deep  pits  dug  in  it.  As  the  reindeer  counted  on  for  transportation 
had  not  been  brought,  our  camp  remained  here  until  August  5,  when, 
with  a  pack  train  of  23  horses,  a  hasty  and  somewhat  hazardous  trip 
of  nearly  two  days  was  made  across  the  Valdez  glacier,  over  the 
Coast  Mountains,  5,000  feet  high,  and  into  the  Copper  River  drainage, 
our  objective  field  of  work.  As  the  season  was  now  already  far 
advanced,  it  was  apparent  that  a  survey  to  the  head  of  the  Copper 
and  the  Mount  Wrangell  district  would  be  impossible.  The  work  of 
the  writer  was  therefore  carried  down  the  Klutena  to  Copper  Center 
on  the  Copper  River,  then  down  the  Copper  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Tasnuna,  and  thence  westward,  closing  the  circuit  to  Yaldez  by  way 
of  Tasnuna  and  Lowe  rivers. 

During  most  of  the  time  spent  in  the  interior,  from  late  in  August 
till  the  return  to  Valdez  on  October  19,  one  party  of  the  expedition 
was  in  charge  of  the  wiiter,  who  carried  on  the  geologic  work,  while 
the  topography  was  done  principally  by  Mr.  Emil  Mahlo.  Two  other 
parties  were  in  charge  of  Captain  Abercrombie  and  of  Lieutenant 
Lowe,  respectively;  of  these  the  former  proceeded  to  Mentasta  Pass 
and  the  latter  to  Forty  mile  on  the  Yukon. 

From  Valdez  to  the  Tonsina  River  the  work  was  carried  on  by  tran- 
sit. By  the  wrecking  of  a  raft  in  crossing  the  Tonsina  the  transit  was 
lost,  and  the  remainder  of  the  circuit  was  completed  by  compass. 
From  Valdez  to  Taral  transportation  was  principally  by  pack  train, 
although  some  supplies  were  sent  down  from  Copper  Center  by  boat; 
but  at  Taral  all  further  progress  with  the  pack  train  was  cut  off  by 
"Woods  Canyon,  whose  walls  slope  up  iato  high  snow-peaked  moun- 
tains on  either  side.  From  this  point  to  the  mouth  of  the  Tasnuna, 
therefore,  travel  was  by  boat;   and  thence,  packing  on  the  backs  of 

*  See  maps  Nos.  7  and  8,  in  accompanying  envelope. 


52  MAPS    AND    DESCRIPTIONS    OF    ALASKA. 

men,  the  journey  up  the  Tasnuna  was  continued  over  a  divide  about 
1,800  feet  hijjh,  down  Lowe  River  to  Dutoh  ('amp  Basin,  and  from 
that  basin  by  pack  train  into  Valdez. 

GEOGRAPHY. 

Prince  William  Souud  is  a  large  bay  lying  between  (50°  and  61** 
north  latitude  and  146°  and  149°  west  longitude.  It  is  bounded  on 
the  north  and  northeast  by  the  mainland,  on  the  west  by  the  Kenai 
Peninsula,  and  on  the  south  by  numerous  islands.  The  many  deep 
indentations  of  the  coast  line  on  the  north,  with  the  outlying  islands, 
present  natural  harbor  facilities  of  the  highest  class  for  even  the 
largest  ocean  vessels. 

Nearly  north  of  the  sound,  but  separated  from  it  by  a  high,  rugged 
range  of  coast  mountains,  is  the  Copper  River  Basin,  whose  drainage 
extends  northward  to  the  parallel  63°  30';  the  river  itself,  upon 
breaking  through  the  range,  debouches  over  a  large  delta  into  the 
Gulf  of  Alaska,  just  east  of  Prince  William  Sound. 

POPULATION. 

Prince  WiUiam  Sound  natives. — The  natives  about  Prince  William 
Sound,  probably  several  hundred  in  all,  are  known  as  Aleuts.  They 
have  long  been  under  missionary  influence,  mainly  Russian,  Their 
chief  settlements  or  villages  are  Tatilak,  iN^uchek,  Chenega,  Eyak,  and 
Allaghanik.  They  trade  with  the  whites  and  are  often  employed  by 
them,  chiefly  in  hunting,  fishing,  and  boating.  They  are  not  a  very 
healthy  people,  consumptive  tendencies  among  them  being  common. 

Prince  WiUiam  Sound  whites. — About  a  dozen  white  men  have  mar- 
ried into  the  native  tribes  and  have  become  residents  there,  being 
engaged  in  trade  or  some  other  industry,  such  as  blue  fox  raising. 

At  Orca  and  Eyak  are  large  salmon  canneries,  owned  by  American 
companies  and  operated  during  the  summer  months  only.  The  labor 
employed  here  is  mostly  Chinese,  imported  from  San  Francisco  for 
each  season  only.  Orca  is  also  a  United  States  post-office,  with 
monthly  mails. 

Copper  River  natives. — The  Copper  River  natives  are  distinct  from 
the  Aleut  tribes  on  the  coast  and  seem  to  be  more  closely  allied  to  the 
Xorth  American  Indian;  their  total  number  is  probably  less  than  300. 
The  country  is  apportioned  off  politically,  each  clan  adhering  closely 
to  its  own  district  in  hunting  and  fishing.  Until  recently  those  best 
known  to  the  whites  were  the  Taral  or  Chittyna  natives,  whose  chief, 
Nicolai,  has  been  mentioned  by  Lieutenant  Allen,  Lieutenant 
Schwatka,  and  Dr.  Hayes.  Mcolai,  however,  has  now  lost  his 
influence  among  his  people,  who  with  unanimous  praise  refer  to 
Hanegatta  as  the  most  wealthy,  powerful,  and  capable  leader  of  their 


PRINCE    WlLLIAiVI    SOUND    AND    COPPER    RIVER    REGION.        53 

tribe.  The  Tezlinas  and  Gakonas,  constituting  the  Upper  Copper 
Eiver  natives,  are  commonly  known  as  the  Kolchanes;  they  are  said 
to  number  about  200,  the  Tezlinas  about  125,  and  the  Gakonas  some 
60  or  80.  The  Tezlinas  occupy  the  country  from  the  Copper  River 
westward  along  the  Tezlina  Eiver  and  Lake  to  Knik  River.  The 
country  from  above  Lake  Klutena  down  the  Copper  to  near  Taral  is 
occupied  by  the  ''Stick"  natives,  headed  by  the  sturdy  chief  Stiphan. 

The  Copper  River  natives,  on  the  whole,  seem  to  be  honest.  Though 
poor,  they  are  hospitable  and  obliging  people,  and  on  several  occa- 
sions last  summer  they  saved  the  lives  and  property  of  whites  who 
had  gone  astray. 

Frospectors  and  explorers. — Owing  probably  very  largely  to  the 
liberal  advertisement  of  passage  to  the  Copper  River  country  by 
transportation  companies,  many  prospectors  and  adventurers  bound 
for  the  Klondike  or  to  indefinite  destinations  in  Alaska  were  led,  in 
the  season  of  1898,  to  try  their  fortunes  in  the  Copper  River  country. 
Many  hoped  at  the  same  time  to  proceed  by  way  of  the  prospective 
all- American  route  into  the  gold  districts  of  the  Upper  Yukon. 

The  influx  began  in  February  and  continued  until  late  in  June, 
during  which  time  it  is  estimated  that  more  than  4,000  persons  and 
their  outfits  landed  at  Yaldez,  the  great  gateway  to  the  Copper.  Of 
these,  more  than  3,000  are  supposed  to  have  entered  the  Copper  River 
Basin  over  the  summit  of  the  Valdez  glacier.  In  the  meantime  several 
hundred  prospectors  landed  at  Orca  and  attempted  to  ascend  the 
Copper  River  from  its  mouth,  but  very  few  of  them  reached  Taral  and 
the  Chittyna. 

The  exodus  began  early  in  May  and  continued  until  late  in  October, 
many  returning  over  the  glacier  to  Valdez  afoot  and  many  down  the 
Copper  by  boat.  Probably  300  remained  in  the  country,  mostly  at 
Copper  Center,  during  the  winter  of  1898-99,  and  a  score  or  so  at 
Valdez  on  the  coast.  Among  those  in  the  interior  numerous  cases  of 
scurvy,  some  of  which  were  serious,  are  reported  to  have  occurred. 

The  letter  mail  taken  from  Valdez  into  the  Copper  River  during 
the  three  months  of  August,  September,  and  October  numbered  more 
than  4,200.  Applications  for  the  establishment  of  an  official  post- 
office  at  Valdez  and  at  Copper  Center  are  now  on  the  files  of  the 
Postmaster-  General . 

CLIMATE. 

PiHnce  William  Sound. — The  climate  at  Prince  William  Sound  is 
mild,  with  a  high  average  percentage  of  cloudiness,  very  heavy  pre- 
cipitation, and  great  barometric  range. 

Spring,  midsummer,  and  a  part  of  the  fall  are  rainy  and  foggy. 
The  annual  snowfall  is  from  7  to  10  feet.  Fierce  blasts  are  said  to 
occur  in  winter. 


54  MAPS    AND    DESOKIPTIOXS    OF    ALASKA. 

During  the  summer  of  1898  the  weather  at  Valdez  was  as  follows: 

From  April  "^4  to  May  1:  continuous  heavy  snowfall,  with  some  thawing; 
little  or  no  wind. 

May:  generally  rainy,  foggy,  and  mild. 

June  1  to  about  July  10:  fine  weather,  generally  bright  and  sunny;  mid- 
days warm  but  not  hot;  temjierature  generally  comfortable  to  cool;  little  or 
no  fog 

July  10  to  August  10:  generally  rainy  and  foggy. 

Valdez  mvimit. — The  summit  is  almost  constantly  enveloped  in  storm 
and  fog,  with  precipitation  nearly  always  in  the  solid  state. 

Copper  River  district. — The  change  of  climate  experienced  in  a  couple 
of  hours'  travel  —  7  or  8  miles  —  from  the  bleak,  frigid,  and  stormy 
summit  down  into  the  Copper  River  Basin  in  August  is  remarkable. 
Here  the  slopes  are  clothed  with  timber,  variegated  flowers,  grasses, 
and  berries,  while  the  clear  bright  skies  rival  the  halcyon  summer 
days  of  the  Upper  Yukon  or  the  rainless  districts  of  western  United 
States, 

According  to  the  reports  of  prospectors  the  summer  months  are 
bright  and  warm,  with  midday  often  hot;  night  frost  may  occur  at 
any  time,  but  is  very-  rare  in  June,  July,  and  early  August.  The 
streams  begin  to  freeze  late  in  October,  and  snow  to  fall  a  few  weeks 
later.  The  annual  snowfall  is  from  2  to  4  feet.  The  winter  seems  to 
be  much  the  same  as  on  the  Upper  Yukon,  though  not  quite  so  cold; 
but  it  is  a  storm- ridden  country,  swept  by  fierce  blasts  descending 
from  the  interior  to  the  coast. 

ANIMAI.   LIFE. 

FUth. — In  the  lakelets  in  the  Copper  River  country  several  species 
of  handsome  lake  trout  occur,  but  the  fish  most  relied  upon  for  sub- 
sistence by  the  natives  is  the  salmon,  notably  the  king  salmon,  which 
normally  ascends  the  Copper  and  its  tributaries  in  great  numbers 
annually.  Large  quantities  had  already  been  dried  by  the  pros- 
pectors on  Lake  Klutena  early  in  August,  and  the  fish  were  still  run- 
ning late  in  September  between  Taral  and  Copper  Center. 

Qiiadrvpedn. — There  is  large  game  in  the  Cx)pper  Basin — several 
species  of  bear,  caribou,  and  some  moose.  In  the  mountains  toward 
the  coast  Rocky  Mountain  sheep  were  shot  by  prospectors,  and  wolf 
are  also  said  to  occur.  Beaver  are  present  on  most  of  the  tributaries 
and  lakelets.  Red  and  gray  squirrel,  though  usually  of  small  size, 
are  abundant  throughout  the  timber.  No  rabbits  were  seen  by  us, 
though  they  were  long  ago  reported  by  Allen.  Porcupine  are  common. 
A  species  of  field  mouse  was  seen,  and  a  third-grown  or  dwarf  frog. 

Birds. — The  eagle,  black  crow,  hawk,  goose,  duck,  ptarmigan, 
grouse,  sea  gull,  sandpiper,  snowbird,  American  robin,  brown  thrush, 


PRINCE    WILLIAM    SOUND    AND    COPPER    RIVER    REGION.        00 

oriole,  blackbird,  woodpecker,  and  many  other  migratory  species  of 
birds  were  seen. 

Insects. — During  the  months  of  May,  June,  and  July  the  mosquito 
is  a  veritable  pest.  Sand  flies  and  gnats  also  occur  later  in  the  season. 
Flies,  grasshoppers,  beetles,  butterflies,  moths,  and  several  species  of 
Neuroptera  were  seen  on  the  mountain  slopes  at  the  foot  of  Lake 
Klutena  late  in  August. 

VEGETATION. 

Prince  William  Sound. — About  Prince  William  Sound  the  chief 
timber  is  spruce,  sometimes  called  Sitka  spruce,  with  some  yellow 
cedar,  cottonwood,  willow,  and  alder.  The  poplar  is  usually  confined 
to  the  flats  in  the  mouths  of  the  valleys  and  inlets,  where  some  good 
grass  also  occurs.  The  timber  line  is  about  2,000  feet,  above  which 
only  moss  and  dwarf  shrubbery  grow.  All  the  hardier  garden  vege- 
tables were  successfully  grown  in  Valdez  last  summer. 

Copper  River  district. — In  the  Copper  River  district  the  country  is 
comparatively  well,  though  not  densely,  timbered.  Spruce  is  the 
dominant  and  most  valuable  tree  and  has  a  good,  tall  growth;  hem- 
lock, aspen,  balm  of  Gilead,  birch,  poplar,  alder,  and  willow  are  also 
present.  The  timber  line  scarcely  reaches  to  2,000  feet.  Though  the 
surface  is  normally  clothed  with  a  dense  growth  of  moss,  large  areaa 
of  good  grass  also  occur,  the  grasses  representing  half  a  dozen  or  more 
species,  some  of  which  resemble  the  silver-top,  red-top,  and  blue-joint 
of  the  Western  States.  They  are  of  a  rank,  succulent  growth,  and 
often  3  or  more  feet  high,  excellent  for  grazing  and  seemingly  good 
for  hay  purposes.  Wild  flowers,  many  species  of  which  are  identical 
with  those  found  in  the  States,  occur  in  great  abundance.  In  luxuri- 
ance of  growth  the  wild  roses  along  the  Copper  greatly  surpass  any- 
thing ever  seen  by  the  writer  in  the  States.  The  ripened  hips  of  the 
roses  are  much  used  by  the  natives  as  food,  and  in  the  absence  of  fruit 
diet  the  members  of  the  party  also  partook  of  them  with  much  relish. 
In  many  localities  wild  red  currants  occur  in  great  abundance,  also 
great  quantities  of  the  moss  berry,  or  ground  cranberry;  and  the  black 
currant,  gooseberry,  blueberry,  huckleberry,  red  salmon  berry,  red 
raspberry,  cranberry,  and  a  kind  of  Viburnum,  or  high -bush  light- red 
cranberrj^,  are  also  found. 

From  early  June  to  the  close  of  the  season  of  1898  all  the  ordinary 
garden  vegetables  were  successfully  grown  at  Copper  Center  by  Mr. 
Jacob  Sittel,  a  gardener  from  Portland,  Oregon. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

Prince  William  Sound  has  the  topography  of  a  submerged  coast,  its 
deep  inlets,  fiords,  and  bays  denoting  the  lower  reaches  of  former 


56  MAPS    AND    DKSCRIPTIONS    OK    ALASKA, 

Bubiierial  valleys,  while  the  ontlyhiji;  ishiiula  represent  the  crests  of 
mountainous  ridges  whose  bases  are  now  under  water. 

From  below  Orca  northward  the  relief  of  the  country  changes 
from  rather  rounded,  low,  and  somewhat  dome-shaped  hills  to  steep 
or  almost  abrui)t-fa€e<l  mountains  2,000  to  4,000  feet  in  height,  which 
often  terminate  in  sharp  peaks.  These  steep  slopes  are  especially 
chanK-teristif  of  the  inner  portions  of  the  bays  and  inlets  which  almost 
everywhere  deeply  indent  the  cojist.  Farther  northward,  on  the 
peninsula  of  the  Chugatch  Mountains,  and  continuing  northwestward 
and  northward  beyond  Port  Valdez  into  the  (Copper  Kiver  Basin,  and 
from  ^'aldez  ejistward  across  the  Copper  seemingly  as  far  as  the  Mount 
St.  Elias  district,  the  topography  is  of  a  much  rougher  and  more 
exclusively  mountainous  and  jagged  character.  The  general  land 
mass,  which  here  rises  from  4,000  to  5,000  feet  above  sea  level  and 
ascends  gently  northward  like  a  slightly  tilted  plateau,  presents  a  sur- 
face considerably  dissected  and  freely  studded  by  sharp,  jagged  peaks, 
turrets,  and  broken  or  discontinuous  sawtooth  ridges,  often  inter- 
spersed with  n^ve  and  local  glaciers  of  moderate  size.  This  type 
of  topography  is  largely  due  to  the  character  and  attitude  of  the 
rocks,  which  almost  everywhere  are  steeply  upturned.  The  amphi- 
theaters or  cirques,  which  are  common  at  the  base  of  many  peaks 
and  ridges,  constitute  a  modification  of  the  otherwise  normal  topog- 
raphy, brought  about  through  the  agency  of  ice  or  local  glaciers 
at  points  where  the  topography  and  atmospheric  conditions  have 
favored  the  accumulation  of  precipitation  in  the  solid  form.  Where 
cut  through  by  the  Copper  River  this  coastal  range  of  mountains 
extends  northward  to  Taral  and  the  Chittyna  River,  about  100 
miles  distant  from  the  coast.  Just  above  these  points  the  mountains 
soon  recede  westward,  inclosing  on  their  north  and  northeast  the 
rather  extensive  moss-  and  timber-covered  plateau-like  basin  of  the 
upper  part  of  the  Copper. 

This  coastal  range,  which  thus  forms  the  broad  barrier  between  the 
coast  and  the  bjisin  proper  of  the  C-opper  River,  and  through  which, 
in  a  deep,  mountainous,  canyon-like  valley,  the  Copper  has  cut  its 
way  to  the  coast,  is  probably  post- Pliocene  in  age  and  may  be  con- 
sidered a  westward  continuation  of  the  St.  Elias  Range. 

Between  Prince  William  Sound  and  the  Copper  River  Basin  these 
mountains  differ  from  most  other  mountain  ranges  in  the  fact  that 
they  terminate  rather  abruptly  along  the  coast  on  the  south  and  along 
the  edge  of  the  Copper  River  Basin  on  the  north.  Also  on  the  north- 
west they  terminate  rather  abruptly  in  an  extensive  tundra  plateau 
which  forms  the  northwest  rim  of  the  Copper  Basin  and  constitutes 
the  poorly  defined  watershed  between  this  drainage  and  that  of  the 
Sushitna  on  the  west.  According  to  Mr.  Mendenhall,  this  divide  has 
an  average  elevation  of  about  2,800  or  2,900  feet;  it  extends  from  the 


PRINCE    WILLIAM    SOUND    AND    COPPER    RIVEP.    P.I'^OION.        57 

north  base  of  the  mountains  in  the  vicinity  of  Lake  Taslina  northeast- 
ward to  the  Alaskan  Mountains. 

About  25  miles  east  of  the  Copper  River,  and  inclosed  by  its  big 
bend,  the  snow-covered  Mount  Wrangell  group  of  mountains  rises  to 
a  maximum  height  of  more  than  17,000  feet.  These  mountains  are 
the  terminus  of  a  northwestward  spur  or  branch  of  the  St.  Elias  Range, 
being  separated  from  the  westward  or  main  range  by  the  Chittyna 
River,  the  great  eastern  tributary  of  the  Copper.  Although  little 
explored,  they  have  for  some  time  been  regarded  as  volcanic.  Mount 
Drum  has  much  the  form  of  a  large  volcanic  cone;  Mount  Tillman  is 
gently  rounded,  with  its  longer  axis  extending  northwest  and  south- 
east; and  Mount  Blackburn,  the  most  southeasterly  of  the  group, 
rises  to  a  height  of  12,500  feet,  its  longer  axis  coinciding  in  direction 
with  that  of  Tillman. 

GEOLOGY. 

Orca  series. — Beginning  below  Orca  in  Prince  William  Sound  and 
extending  northward  and  northwestward,  the  rocks  are  a  sedimentary 
series,  consisting  of  thick-bedded  brown  and  gray  sandstones  and 
arkoses  interlarded  with  usually  thin  layers  of  shale  or  slate  and 
occasionally  some  conglomerate.  The  general  strike  is  a  little  north 
of  east,  or  about  E.-W.;  the  dip  is  steeply  N.  The  rocks  are  freely 
jointed,  often  intensely  folded  and  minutely  faulted,  and  are  traversed 
by  three  or  more  sets  of  cleavages.  These  cleavage  planes  are  often 
follow?  d  by  quartz  and  calcite  veinlets. 

Vallez  series. — Farther  to  the  west  and  northwest,  in  the  vicinity  of 
Fida'tgo  Bay  and  Copper  Mountain,  the  rocks  become  more  highly 
metamorphosed  and  consist  of  bluish-gray  and  dark  quartzites,  or 
arkoses,  and  quartz-schists,  interbedded  with  generally  thin  beds  of 
dark-blue  or  black  slate,  shale,  mica-schist  (sometimes  slightly  gra- 
p'nitic),  nodular  mica-schist,  and  occasionally  some  stretched  conglom- 
erate. 

The  strike  and  dip  of  these  rocks,  well  shown  in  Port  Valdez,  are 
she  same  as  in  the  Orca  rocks,  and  the  series  extends  northward  over 
jhe  range  down  into  the  Copper  River  Basin,  and  eastward  across  the 
Copper  from  below  the  Tasnuna  up  to  near  the  foot  of  Woods  Canyon 
below  Taral.  The  rocks  show  much  the  same  faulting,  folding,  and 
♦5leavage  as  the  Orca  rocks.  They  are  at  times  cut  by  granitic  diorite 
or  aplite  dikes. 

Age  of  the  Valdez  and  Orca  series. — Fragmentary  plant  remains  col- 
h^cted  from  both  the  Orca  and  the  Valdez  rocks  are  pronounced  by 
iMr.  F.  H.  Knowlton,  of  the  United  States  Geological  Survey,  as 
probably  Sequoia  and  Taxodium,  referring  the  rocks  to  Upper  Creta- 
ceMjus  or  Lower  Tertiary  in  age. 

Copper  Mountain  greenstone  or  amphiholite- schist. — Exposed  on  the 


58  MAI'S    AND    DESCKIPllONS    OF    ALASKA, 

north  shore  of  Prince  William  Sound,  alon},^  the  zone  where  the  Orca 
roeks  <;ive  way  to  the  Valdez  series,  and  Ireudiug  nejirly  east  and  west, 
runs  a  somewhat  mountainous  backbone  or  ridge  of  green  amphibo- 
lite-schist.  It  ia  a  totally  dilTerent  rock  from  either  the  Orca  or  the 
Valdez  series,  but  seems  to  underlie  and  greatly  exceed  them  in  age. 
On  the  sound  it  is  best  exposed  to  the  east  of  Tatitlak,  where  it  con- 
stitutes almost  the  entire  mass  of  Chopper  Mountain,  which  rises 
steeply  5,000  feet  above  the  sea;  thence  it  extends  eastward  under 
Fidalgo  Bay  and  across  country  toward  the  Copper  River.  In  the 
Copper  River  Basin  it  forms  the  mountains  along  the  south  side  of  the 
Tonsina  Valley,  and  from  these  mountains  it  continues  southward  to 
Woods  Canyon,  and  thence  eastward  for  some  distance.  It  probably 
also  forms  the  frontal  ranges  which  come  down  toward  the  Copper 
from  the  Mount  Wraugell  group  on  the  southwest. 

Klutena  series. — The  Valdez  rocks,  roughly  speaking,  extend  north- 
ward to  near  the  bend  of  Lake  Klutena,  where  they  give  way  to  mica 
and  quartz  schists,  sometimes  jaspery,  and  marble.  These  rocks  may 
for  convenience  be  called  the  Klutena  series;  they  resemble  in  some 
respects  the  rocks  of  the  Fortymile  series  in  the  Yukon  district. 

Igneous  rocks. — Above  Orca,  about  Sheep  Bay  and  Gra\ina  Point, 
the  beach  is  sometimes  for  miles  lined  with  granitic  diori>  e  bowlders, 
whose  large  size  and  numbers  would  seem  to  favor  the  occurrence  of 
the  parent  bed  rock  near  by.  Pebbles  showing  the  contact  of  diabase 
with  the  Orca  sedimentaries  occur  along  the  beach  about  Oravina 
Point  and  northward,  and  on  the  north  shore  of  Blighs  Island  a  t>T)ical 
medium -grained  iron-gray  diabase  meets  the  darker  slate;  this  is  prob- 
ably only  a  large  dike.  A  somewhat  similar  rock  occurs  at  the  head 
of  the  Klutena  River.  Gabbro  is  found  about  8  miles  below  I'iake 
Klutena,  on  the  northwest  side  of  the  Klutena  River,  in  a  hill  ritung 
about  1,100  feet  above  the  river. 

The  rocks  of  the  Mount  Wrangell  group  have  long  been  suppost"^ 
to  be  volcanic,  but  as  they  have  never  been  visited  by  any  scientii^^t 
nothing  definite  is  known  of  them.  Specimens  received  from  Messrs  . 
Cantwell  and  Mason,  who  in  the  summer  of  1898  had  penetrated  to  and 
collected  from  the  north  ''crater"  of  Mount  Drum,  were  pronounced 
bj'  the  writer,  from  hand-specimen  examination,  to  be  a  red  rhyolitc 
and  probably  a  gray  andesite.  The  prospectors  reported  that  th^J 
entire  mass  of  Drum,  as  far  as  seen,  is  made  up  principally  of  thi  s 
red  rhyolite,  and  that  it  extends  over  many  thousand  square  mile« 
northward  around  and  beyond  Mount  Sanford. 

Copper  River  silts. — These  betls  form  the  plateau  terrane  of  ttie 
Copper  River  Basin.  They  are  composed  for  the  most  part  of  fine- 
grained, light  buff-colored,  unconsolidated  silts,  with  local  deposits  of 
sand  and  gravel.  The  stratification  is  horizontal,  and  this,  with  the 
fineness  of  the  material  and  the  areal  extent  of  the  beds  over  the 


PRINCE    WILLIAM    SOUND    AND    COPPER    RIVER    PwEGION.        59 

basin,  probably  more  than  2,000  square  miles,  leads  to  the  view 
that  they  were  most  probably  deposited  in  some  large  lake  or  branch 
of  the  sea.  The  beds  are  exposed  in  the  form  of  bluffs  and  terraces 
along  the  Copper  Eiver  above  Taral,  and  on  the  tributaries  of  that 
section  of  the  river,  often  rising  steeply  from  the  river  to  a  height 
of  400  or  500  feet;  and  they  probably  exceed  1,000  feet  in  maxi- 
mum thickness.  Geologically  the  beds  seem  to  be  very  young. 
They  nowhere  show  tendency  to  consolidation,  nor  do  they  seem  to 
carry  any  fossils  other  than  recent  shells,  occasionally  found  near  the 
tops  of  the  beds,  of  organisms  such  as  now  live  along  some  of  the 
streams  in  that  district. 

MINER AJL   RESOURCES. 
COPPER. 

About  Prince  William  Sound  it  is  common  to  find  iron  and  copper 
sulphides  disseminated  almost  anywhere  throughout  the  country  rock; 
but  on  some  of  the  larger  islands  of  the  sound,  and  at  several  local- 
ities on  the  shore  of  the  mainland,  occur  mineralized  zones  of  con- 
siderable extent  and  of  very  promising  et'onomic  value.  The  worth  of 
the  ores  rests  chiefly  in  their  copper  value,  but  in  some  of  them  gold 
and  silver  have  also  been  assayed  in  good  pacing  quantities. 

Copper  Mountain  mine. — At  Copper  Mountain  near  Tatiklak,  in 
Landlock  Bay,  where  one  of  these  deposits  is  being  mined  by  the 
Alaska  Commercial  Company,  the  ore  as  observed  by  Mr.  J.  E.  Spurr 
occupies  a  shear  zone  in  the  green  amphibolite-schist,  and  consists 
principally  of  copper  pyrites  and  bornite.  It  is  best  exposed  about 
300  feet  above  sea  level. 

On  the  northwest  base  of  the  mountain,  facing  the  head  of  Copper 
Mountain  Bay.  a  somewhat  similar  deposit  occurs,  known  as  the  Rip- 
stein  ledge. 

Gladhaugh  Bay  mine. — Just  above  Tatiklak,  in  the  head  of  Glad- 
haugh  Bay,  a  vein  or  deposit  consisting  mostly  of  iron  and  copper 
pyrites  and  about  600  feet  in  width  is  being  worked  by  a  Vancouver 
companj'.  The  contact  of  an  igneous  rock  (diabase)  with  the  country 
rock  here  seems  to  have  something  to  do  with  the  ore  deposit. 

Latouche  and  Knights  islands. — Other  localities  which  are  receiving 
considerable  attention  and  are  being  developed  are  Knights  and 
Latouche  islands.  On  the  latter,  which  lies  in  the  southern  part  of 
the  sound,  the  deposit  seems  to  be  a  phenomenally  large  one.  The 
ore  is  mostly  bornite  and  copper  pyrites,  and  is  of  good  grade,  fre- 
quently running  as  high  as  25  per  cent  copper  to  the  ton,  with  from 
$1  to  .^3  in  gold  and  silver. 

Up  in  the  Copper  River  country  native  copper  in  small  amount  was 


60  MAPS    AND    DESCRIFl'IONS    OF    ALASKA. 

long  ago  found  iu  possession  of  the  natives.  Its  source  is  supposed  to 
1)0  the  Chittviia  and  Upper  White  Kiver  districts.  Prospectors  who 
ascondeil  the  Chittyua  iu  the  summer  of  1898  report  the  prospects  of 
copper  good,  and  display  nuggets  of  the  native  metal  3  inches  in 
diameter.  North  of  the  Chittyua  the  Stick  natives  report  the  best 
source  of  copper  to  be  up  the  tributaries  coming  dowu  from  the  south- 
west base  of  the  Mount  Wrangell  group;  while  the  Taral  natives,  so 
far  as  c;in  be  learned,  are  probably  familiar  with  a  considerable 
deposit  of  the  metal  or  its  ore  up  the  Chittystoue,  or  southeast  fork  of 
the  Chittyua,  each  tribe  being  best  acquainted  with  that  in  its  own 
district. 

OOIiD-BBARING  QUARTZ. 

The  quartz  found  in  the  country  rock  usually  occurs  in  discontin- 
uous stringers  or  veinlets  and  not  in  large  quantities.  Assays  of 
samples  collected  at  several  points  show  it  to  carry  gold,  which  is 
probably  the  source  of  the  placer  or  fine  gold  found  disseminated  in 
the  gravels  throughout  the  country.  So  far  as  the  observations  of  the 
writer  extend,  the  country  can  hardly  be  considered  promising  for 
gold-quartz  mining.  One  assay,  however,  collected  by  the  writer 
from  Wilson  Point  in  Prince  William  Sound,  yielded  1.25  ounces  of 
gold,  and  3  ounces  of  silver,  or  a  total  money  value  of  about  $27  to  the 
ton.  The  vein  (which  was  discovered  by  the  writer)  is  about  3  feet 
in  thickness  and  is  an  aggregate  stringer  vein,  being  made  up  of  a 
great  many  parallel  quartz  stringers  or  veinlets  trending  with  the 
bedding  of  the  rock.  It  is  probably  a  shear-zone  deposit.  Its  dip  is 
nearly  vertical.  No  idea  of  its  linear  extent  was  formed,  as  it  soon 
passed  beneath  the  deep  covering  of  moss  and  snow;  it  seems,  however, 
to  warrant  further  investigation  and  probably  development. 

PLACERS. 

About  the  most  of  Prince  William  Sound  and  in  the  Copper  River 
country,  gold  placer  digging  is  yet  in  its  early  stages.  The  consider- 
able prospecting,  however,  which  has  been  done  seems  to  indicate 
that  the  country  as  a  whole  is  not  very  promising  in  this  line,  although 
fine  or  flour  gold  occurs  almost  everywhere,  both  in  the  gravels  on 
the  coast  and  in  the  Copper  River  district. 

Several  years  ago  gravels  at  the  mouth  of  Mineral  Creek,  which 
flows  into  Port  Valdez,  are  reported  to  have  yielded  fair  pay  to  several 
pioneers  who  worked  them.  Some  work  was  also  done  on  the  south 
side  of  the  sound,  in  Solomons  Basin,  with  similar  results,  and  recently 
in  Canyon  Creek  Bay  some  coarse  gold  has  been  sluiced.  Claims  are 
staked  off  at  various  locations,  some  in  the  terminal  moraine  gravels 


PRINCE    WILLIAM    SOUND    AND    COPPER    RIVER    REGION.        61 

at  the  foot  of  the  Valdez  glacier.     Some  coarse  gold  has  also  been 
panned  from  the  gravels  in  Dutch  Camp  Basin. 

In  the  Copper  Eiver  country  the  thick  deposit  of  gravels  and  lake 
beds,  which  during  most  of  the  summer  carry  considerable  water,  is  a 
great  impediment  to  effectual  prospecting.  According  to  seemingly 
reliable  prospectors,  good  coarse  gold  was  found  last  summer  on  a 
branch  of  the  Slana  River  near  the  head  waters  of  the  Copper,  and  on 
Quartz  Creek,  one  of  the  upper  tributaries  of  the  Tonsina,  where 
many  claims  are  reported  staked  and  some  men  are  wintering.  Mr. 
Charles  Brown,  United  States  Quatermaster  at  Valdez,  has  lately 
reported  that  men  are  working  on  Manker  Creek  and  Mahlo  River, 
both  tributaries  to  the  Kluteua,  and  on  some  of  the  head  waters  of  the 
Teikell. 

COAL. 

So  far  as  seen  by  the  writer  the  formations  met  with  seem  to  be 
barren  of  coal.  It  may  be  mentioned,  however,  that  on  the  Upper 
Gakona  River  some  prospectors  rei)ort  the  occurrence  of  coal  in  work- 
able quantities. 

ROUTES   AND   TRAILS. 

The  only  route  used  for  getting  into  the  Copper  River  country  from 
Valdez  during  the  season  of  1898  was  the  Valdez  glacier  route.  Start- 
ing from  Valdez,  the  trail  leads  4  miles  northeast,  with  a  very  gentle 
rise  over  the  delta  gravels,  to  the  foot  of  the  Valdez  glacier,  thence 
about  north  for  18  miles  up  the  glacier  to  the  summit,  which  is  4,800 
feet  high.  The  glacier  is  broken  or  transversely  marked  by  four  or 
five  successive  long  benches  or  terraces,  from  one  to  the  other  of  which 
the  rise  of  100  feet  or  more  is  usually  sharp  and  sometimes  diflicult, 
the  topography  of  the  ice  being  very  rugged,  with  crevasses,  ridges, 
and  turrets.  With  the  exception  of  these  benches  the  ascent  from  the 
foot  of  the  glacier  to  near  the  summit  is  gradual;  but  just  before 
reaching  the  top  there  is  a  steep  rise  of  a  thousand  feet  at  an  angle 
of  15°  to  20°.  The  pass  is  guarded  by  a  couple  of  prominent  peaks, 
one  on  either  side  and  standing  about  a  mile  apart.  From  the  summit 
the  trail  descends  rapidly,  but  nowhere  abruptly,  for  a  distance  of  6 
miles  through  a  canyon-like  vaUey  to  the  foot  of  the  Klutena  glacier, 
which  is  the  source  of  the  Klutena  River. 

From  the  foot  of  the  Valdez  glacier  to  the  foot  of  the  Klutena 
glacier,  a  distance  of  25  miles,  there  is  no  vegetation,  timber,  or 
brush,  but  only  a  waste  of  barren  rock  walls,  peaks,  and  snow  and 
ice,  so  that  fuel  for  camping  while  on  the  glacier  must  be  brought 
from  either  end.  From  the  foot  of  the  Klutena  glacier  the  trail  con- 
tinues down  the  north  side  of  the  river  and  lake  to  Copper  Center, 
where  the  elevation  is  about  1,050  feet. 


62  MAPS    AND    DESCRrPTIONR    OF    ALASKA. 

From  Copper  Center  to  the  T-an.ana,  Yukon,  and  Fortymile  rivers, 
the  best  and  shortest  route  is  the  Millard  trail  by  way  of  Mentasta 
Pass.  This  trail,  crossing  the  Copper,  bears  northeastward  somewhat 
near  the  base  of  Mounts  Drum  and  Sanford,  over  the  high  ground  of 
tlie  big  ben<l  of  the  (^opper,  and  is  said  to  be  a  good,  cut  liorse  trail 
from  Copper  Center  to  nejir  the  Copper  River  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Slana.  Prom  Copper  Center  another  route  leads  along  the  northwest 
side  of  the  Copper  River  to  the  mouth  of  the  Slana;  this  trail,  how- 
ever, is  much  longer  than  and  not.  so  good  as  the  Millard  trail. 

From  the  northwest  bend  of  Lake  Klutena  at  Cranberry  Marsh  a 
trail  branches  off  up  Salmon  Creek  Valley  and  leads  by  way  of  Lake 
Lily  northward  to  the  1\izlina  River,  thence  down  that  river  to  the 
Copper.  This  route  seems  to  have  been  started  chiefly  by  prospectors 
before  the  snow  disappeared  in  the  spring  of  1898,  after  which  the 
marshiness  of  the  country  over  which  it  ran  led  to  its  disuse.  That 
part  of  it  down  the  Tazlina,  however,  is  an  Indian  trail,  and  is  said  to 
be  pretty  fair  and  to  continue  westward  down  the  Matanuska  and 
Knik  rivers  to  Cook  Inlet.  Long  ago  it  was  in  use  by  the  Russians  in 
traveling  from  Cook  Inlet  to  Copper  River. 

Previous  maps  have  rejKjrted  a  good  trail  from  Taral  northward  on 
both  sides  of  the  Copper.  This  is  a  mistake,  for  although  portions  of 
a  trail  are  here  and  there  met  with,  they  are  liable  at  any  time  to  run 
out,  usually  extending  but  a  short  distance  from  the  native  villages. 
The  Survey  party,  in  coming  down  the  Copper  to  Taral,  found  it 
necessary  to  cut  trail  most  of  the  way.  From  Taral  southward,  on  the 
east  side  of  the  Copper  River,  there  is  a  portage  trail  of  about  4  miles, 
for  foot  only,  to  the  lower  end  of  Woods  Canyon,  from  which  point 
southward  through  the  mountains  there  is  no  trail  save  that  recently 
cut  by  prospectors  at  difficult  points  for  towing  up  boats.  An  Indian 
trail  is  said  to  ascend  the  Chittyua  River  from  Taral  to  above  the 
forks,  but  is  not  suitable  for  pack  animals. 

A  proposed  route  from  Valdez  into  the  Copper  River  cx^)untry  starts 
up  Lowe  River  Valley,  which  it  would  leave  at  Dutch  (!amp  Basin, 
and,  bearing  off  to  the  north,  would  cross  the  head  waters  of  the  Tonsina 
and,  descending  Manker  Creek  Valley,  strike  the  Klutena  River  and 
trail  just  below  the  lake.  It  runs  over  some  unexplored  country,  but 
seems  to  be  by  far  the  most  suitable  of  all  for  railroad  and  pack-train 
purposes.  At  the  head  of  the  Tonsina  a  branch  trail  strikes  off  to 
Sawmill  camp  just  below  Twelvemile  camp.  Some  engineering  will  be 
required  through  Keystone  Canyon  on  Lowe  River  to  make  the  trail 
practicable  for  all-summer  travel. 

Another  feasible  route  would  be  from  Valdez  up  Lowe  River,  across 
the  divide  Cwhich  is  only  1,800  feet  high),  and  down  the  TavSnuna 
River  to  the  Copper,  whence  the  transportation  up  the  Copper  would 
be  by  boat,  preferably  a  light-draft  steamer  of  special  power. 


PRINCE    WILLIAM    SOUND    AND    COPPER    RIVER   REGION. 


63 


Table  of  approximate  distances  from  Yaldez  by  Glacier  trail  to  Copper 
Center  and  thence  by  Millard  trail  to  Mentasta  Pass. 


Place. 


Valdez 

Foot  of  Valdez  glacier 

Top  of  third  bench 

Twelvemile  camp,  at  foot  of  fourth  bench 

Foot  of  summit 

Summit 

Foot  of  Klutena  glacier 

Onemile  camp 

Twelvemile  camp 

Sawmill  camp 

Twentyfourmile  camp,  at  head  of  Lake  Klutena 

Cranberry  Marsh 

Foot  of  Lake  Klutena 

Amee  Landing 

Coxe  Landing 

Cook  Bend 

Bowlder  Spring,  on  bluff 

Copper  Center,  at  mouth  of  Klutena 

Mentasta  Pass  (by  Millard  trail) 


Miles. 


0 

4 

8 

16 

22 

23 

29 

30 

33 

35 

46 

64 

79 

85 

90 

95 

97 

113 

205 


Elevation 
in  feet. 


0 
210 
830 
2,750 
3,800 
4,800 
2,020 
1,960 
1,930 
1,740 
1,673 
1,673 
1,670 
1,370 
1,320 
1,240 
1,590 
1,050 
2,300 


5-Alaska. 


REPORT  OF  THE  WHITE  RIVER-TAN AJ^A   EXPEDITION/ 


By  W.  J.  Pbters  and  Alfred  H.  Brooks. 


NARRATIVE. 


The  party  on  whose  work  the  following  report  is  based  was  consti- 
tuted as  follows:  W.  J.  Peters,  topographer  in  charge;  Alfred  H. 
Brooks,  geologist;  Charles  Ray,  H,  B.  Baker,  A.  R,  Airs,  and  L.  D. 
Crardiuer,  Ciinip  hands.  We  desire  to  express  our  indebtedness  to 
these  four  men  for  services  faithfully  rendered,  under  what  were  fre- 
quently very  trying  conditions. 

Our  party  crossed  the  White  Pass,  on  the  snow,  about  the  middle 
of  April,  and  made  its  way  on  the  ice  to  the  head  of  Marsh  Lake. 
Here  we  were  delayed  for  several  weeks  on  account  of  the  spring 
thaw;  finally,  the  ice  having  broken,  we  started  down  the  lake  in  our 
canoes  on  the  28th  of  May.  During  the  first  few  days  we  were  much 
hampered  by  ice  floes,  which  forced  us  to  make  several  portages  and 
rendered  canoe  navigation  rather  perilous.  After  passing  Lake 
Lebarge  we  saw  no  more  of  the  ice,  and  traveled  rapidly  down  the  river. 
At  Fort  Selkirk  we  attempted  to  obtain  information  from  the  Indians 
in  regard  to  the  region  we  were  to  explore,  but  in  this  we  met  with  a 
very  moderate  degree  of  success  and  the  results  were  not  encouraging. 
We  were  assured  that  it  would  be  impossible  to  ascend  the  White 
River  in  boats,  and  the  portage  to  the  Tanana  was  estimated  as  from 
20  to  100  miles  in  length.  According  to  these  stories,  if  we  escaped 
the  perils  of  navigating  the  White  and  Tanana  rivers  we  ran  still 
greater  dangers  from  the  Tanana  Indians,  who  were  said  to  guard  their 
country  jealously  from  the  intrusion  of  white  men. 

On  June  5  we  reached  the  mouth  of  White  River,  where  Mr.  Barnard 
and  party,  with  whom  we  had  traveled  thus  far,  left  us  to  continue 
their  journey  to  the  Fortymile  region.  On  June  8  our  party  of  six 
made  a  start  up  the  White  River,  with  provisions  for  three  months  and 
equipment  divided  among  three  canoes.  The  ascent  of  the  river  was 
accomplished  under  great  difficulties;  by  tracking  (cordelling),  poling, 
and  much  of  the  time  dragging  the  canoes,  we  reached  the  mouth  of 
Snag  River  by  July  10.  Through  the  hardest  kind  of  work,  which 
included  almost  continuous  wading  and  frequent  duckings  in  the 
glacial  waters  of  the  White  River,  we  had  in  a  month  made  about 
86  miles.  We  were  hampered  not  only  by  the  swift  current  but  also 
by  the  numerous  quicksands,  as  well  as  the  many  snags  found  in  the 

*  See  map  No.  9,  in  accompanying  envelope. 
64 


AVIIITE    RIVEll-TANANA    EXPEDITION.  65 

river,  on  which  our  canoes  were  frequently  injured  so  as  to  require 
repairs.  This  month  was,  however,  not  entirely  spent  on  the  river, 
for  we  made  several  trips  inland  to  extend  our  geologic  and  topographic 
mapping. 

After  continuing  up  Snag  Eiver  some  65  miles  we  found  a  portage 
to  Tanana  waters  which  was  but  a  few  miles  in  length;  here,  in  a 
broad  lowland,  Mirror  Creek,  a  tributary  of  the  Tanana,  has  its 
source  within  a  few  miles  of  Snag  Eiver.  The  portage  was  accom- 
plished in  a  few  days,  and  then,  to  the  great  delight  of  all  the  party, 
we  started  down  a  smoothly  flowing,  clear-water  stream,  our  progress 
contrasting  strongly  with  that  of  the  previous  six  weeks.  Mirror 
Creek  proved  to  be  about  60  miles  in  length,  and  enters  the  Tanana 
near  its  great  westerly  bend,  probably  40  or  50  miles  from  the  source 
of  the  latter  stream.  The  month  of  August  was  spent  in  traversing 
and  making  a  hasty  survey  of  some  500  miles  of  the  Tanana  Eiver. 
At  the  point  near  the  Mentasta  Pass  and  Fortymile  trail  we  met  some 
prospectors  and  Indians,  the  first  human  beings  we  had  seen  in  two 
months.  We  reached  Weare,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Tanana,  on  the  1st 
of  September,  as  had  been  planned,  with  our  provisions  entirely 
exhausted.  From  Weare  we  went  down  the  Yukon  by  river  steamer, 
and  from  St.  Michael  returned  to  Seattle. 

PREVIOUS  EXPLORATIONS. 

The  Upper  White  was  explored  in  1891  by  Lieutenant  Schwatka 
and  Dr.  Hayes,  who  crossed  by  overland  trail  from  Fort  Selkirk  and 
reached  the  river  some  150  miles  above  its  mouth .  They  continued  their 
journey  to  the  source  of  the  White,  and  crossed  to  the  Copper  Eiver 
by  way  of  the  Scolai  Pass.^  A  portion  of  the  Tanana  was  explored  in 
1885  by  Lieutenant  Allen,  who,  with  a  small  party,  crossed  from  the 
Copper  Eiver  by  the  Suslota  Pass  and  continued  down  the  Tanana  to  its 
mouth. ^  Different  parts  of  these  river  basins  have  also  been  visited 
by  those  indefatigable  explorers,  the  Alaskan  prospectors;  but  unfor- 
tunately the  information  collected  by  them  is  seldom  exact  and  is  as  a 
rule  not  easily  available. 

GEOGRAPHY. 

The  ^Yhite  and  Tanana  drainage  systems  comprise  the  larger 
part  of  the  drainage  basin  of  the  Yukon  which  lies  to  the  south  of 
that  great  river.  A  description  of  the  general  geographic  features  of 
these  two  basins  will  be  found  in  the  sketch  of  the  geography  of  the 
Yukon  district  (p.  85)  and  will  not  be  repeated  here.  The  White 
and  Tanana  rivers  and  their  tributaries  lie  for  the  most  part  in  the 

»  A  trip  to  the  Yukon  Basin,  by  C.  Willard  Hayes:  Nat.  Geog.  Mag.,  Vol.  IV,  1893,  pp.  117-162. 
»  An  Exploration  of  the  Copper,  Tanana,  and  Koyukuk  Rivers  In  the  Territorj'  of  Alaska,  by 
Lieut.  Henry  T.  Allen,  U.  S.  A. 


66  MAPS    AND    DESCKIKriONS    OK    ALASKA. 

dissected  upland  which  has  been  called  the  Yukon  Plateau.  Several 
mountain  groups  which  mark  the  southern  limits  of  these  basins  rise 
abruptly  from  (his  upland,  and  their  ruj;;ged  slopes  and  jagged  crests 
contrast  strongly  with  the  llat-topped  remnants  of  the  old  plateau. 
These  snow-clad  mountains  lying  along  the  southern  margin  can  be 
differentiated  into  three  groups.  The  most  easterly  of  these  is  the 
great  St.  Elias  Range,  of  which  Dr.  Hayes  says:' 

Like  the  southern  coast  range,  it  is  a  broad,  elevated  belt,  with  numerous 
peaks  and  short  ridges,  probably  the  highest  being  along  its  southern  bor- 
der, culminating  in  Mount  St.  Elias.  Westward  froiu  this  peak  the  range  is 
separated  into  two  divergent  ranges  by  the  valley  of  the  Chittenah  River. 
The  one  continued  to  the  northwest  contains  high  volcanic  peaks  of  the 
Wrangell  group. 

The  Nutzotin  Mountains,  the  second  of  these  groups,  lie  to  the  south 
of  the  Upper  Tanana  Valley,  and  in  these  the  Tanana  probably  heads. 
This  range  has  a  NW.-SE.  trend  and  an  elevation  of  8,000  to  10,000 
feet;  it  lies  to  the  north  of  the  Upper  White  River  Valley,  and  hence 
to  the  north  of  the  St.  Elias  Range,  and  in  its  northwesterly  extension 
divides  the  Copper  and  the  Tanana  waters.  The  range  is  entirely 
unexplored,  and  its  exact  topographic  relations  are  not  known.  To 
the  northwest  it  decreases  in  altitude,  the  peaks  here  ranging  from 
6,000  to  7,000  feet  in  height,  while  the  Mentasta  and  Suslota  passes, 
which  are  decided  breaks  in  the  range,  are  probably  not  over  4,000 
feet  high.  West  of  Mentasta  Pass  the  divide  increases  in  elevation 
until  it  finally  merges  into  the  Alaskan  Range. 

The  Alaskan  Range  extends  in  a  southwesterly  direction  from  the 
Middle  Tanana,  and  is  broken  by  several  broad  gaps,  such  as  the 
valleys  of  the  Delta  and  Cantwell  rivers.  It  is  possible  that  further 
explorations  will  show  that  the  Nutzotin  Mountains  represent  an  east- 
ern extension  of  the  same  uplift. 

To  the  west  of  the  Alaskan  Range  we  have  little  information  in 
regard  to  the  limits  of  the  Tanana  Basin.  The  divide  between  the 
Tanana  and  Kuskokwim  waters  was  far  distant  from  our  route  of  travel 
and  we  were  unable  to  determine  its  character.  It  is  probably  a  range 
of  mountains  of  no  great  elevation,  which  decreases  in  height  and 
gradually  bends  to  the  southward  as  it  approaches  the  Yukon. 

In  its  lower  course  the  White  River  cuts  through  a  mountain  mass 
whose  highest  summits  mark  the  level  of  the  old  plateau,  in  the 
western  extension  of  which  are  the  sources  of  several  tributaries  of 
the  White,  Tanana,  Sixtymile,  and  Fortymile  rivers.  A  depression 
separates  this  upland  from  the  Ketchumstock  Hills,  which  continue 
the  divide  between  the  Yukon  and  the  Tanana  waters;  this  minor 
range  is  probably  higher  than  the  old  upland,  and  is  itself  separated 
from  the  Tanana  Hills  by  the  gap  of  the  Chena  River. 

»  Op.  cit.,  p.  129. 


WHITE    RIVER-TANANA    EXPEDITION.  67 

The  White  Eiver  rises  in  the  north  lobe  of  the  Eussell  glacier,  and 
flows  east  through  a  broad  valley  for  40  miles  parallel  with  the  St. 
Elias  Eange,  receiving  nuinerons  tributaries  from  the  mountains  to 
the  south.  Below  this  flat  the  valley  gradually  narrows  and  assumes  a 
canyon-like  character,  and  then  in  a  distance  of  20  miles  debouches 
on  a  broad  lowland.  This  lowland  has  a  length  of  about  75  miles  and 
an  extreme  width  of  50  miles;  it  embraces  not  only  the  White  River 
and  some  confluent  streams,  but  is  extended  through  to  the  Tanana  in 
broad,  flat  valleys.  It  is  interrupted  here  and  there  by  knobs,  hills, 
and  mountain  masses,  which  rise  abruptly  from  the  wooded  plain. 
Below  this  lowland  the  White  has  a  comparatively  narrow  valley  all 
the  way  to  its  mouth. 

Where  we  first  reached  the  Tanana,  at  the  mouth  of  Mirror  Creek, 
it  flows  in  a  broad  lowland  which  might  be  considered  an  extension  of 
the  valley  of  the  White.  The  Tanana  enters  this  plain  through  a  narrow 
gap,  above  which  it  has  not  yet  been  explored.  The  river  valley  here 
has  a  quadrangular  outline,  as  will  be  seen  by  referring  to  the  accom- 
panying map  (No.  9).  A  study  of  the  map  will  also  show  that  the 
Tanana  Valley  is  in  fact  characterized  by  a  series  of  these  valley  low- 
lands having  quadrilateral  outlines  and  bounded  by  steep  escarpments. 
These  broad  lowlands  are  connected  by  narrow  stretches  of  valley. 
Below  the  mouth  of  the  Silokh  Eiver  the  southern  side  of  the  valley 
recedes  rapidly,  and  from  this  point  to  the  junction  with  the  Yukon 
it  is  at  least  30  miles  wide.  Along  this  lower  portion  of  the  river  the 
southern  side  of  the  valley  is  not  mapped,  but  the  north  slope  con- 
tinues to  give  suggestions  of  this  quadrangular  character  in  a  series 
of  reentrant  angles  which  the  river  closely  follows.  Throughout  its 
course  the  Tanana  hugs  very  closely  the  north  side  of  the  valley. 
The  confluent  streams  from  the  north  all  have  sluggish  currents  and 
usually  deep  channels,  while  those  entering  from  the  south  are  shallow 
and  swift,  often  being  veritable  torrents. 

GEOLOGY. 

Nasina  series. — From  the  mouth  of  the  White  Eiver  to  Ladue  Creek 
are  exposed  quartz -schists  and  quartz-mica-schists  associated  with 
white  crystalline  limestones,  which  have  been  grouped  together  under 
the  name  of  the  Nasina  series.  In  the  schists  are  found  numerous 
basic  igneous  rocks  which  have  been  more  or  less  sheared,  and  some 
larger  masses  of  intrusive  granite  which  are  entirely  massive.  These 
rocks  of  the  Nasina  series  have  been  somewhat  deformed,  since  they 
occur  as  a  series  of  open  folds.  This  series  is  probably  the  equivalent 
of  the  Birch  Creek  schists  and  the  Fortymile  series;  but  as  it  was 
impossible  to  differentiate  them  into  the  two  horizons,  it  was  thought 
best  to  give  them  a  local  name  until  their  identity  with  the  rocks 
described  by  Spurr  could  be  definitely  established. 


68  MAPS    AiNI)    DESCRIPTIONS    OF    ALASKA. 

Basal  (/neissoid  series. — Between  Ladue  Creek  and  the  White  River 
Flats  the  river  cuts  a  series  composed  of  mica-schists  and  gneisses, 
with  numerous  intrusives,  both  sheared  and  massive.  The  intrusives 
are  both  of  a  granitic  and  of  a  dioritic  character.  While  the  contact 
between  this  and  the  Nasina  series  was  not  seen,  it  seems  probable, 
from  the  fact  that  the  gneisses  have  sull'ered  much  metamorphism, 
that  they  are  an  older  series.  The  gneisses  are  found  again  on  the 
Tanana,  extending  from  Mount  Chusana  to  about  the  mouth  of  the 
Delta  River.  Along  the  Tanana  this  series  contains  large  masses  of 
gi*anite,  which  is  often  porphyritic  and  in  places  has  been  altered  to  an 
augen- gneiss. 

Tanana  schists. — These  schists  are  essentially  quartz-mica  rocks,  in 
places  true  phyllites  (mica-slates),  and  frequently  graphitic.  Impure 
limestones  are  sometimes  found  interbedded  with  these  phyllites. 
These  schists  have  been  closely  folded,  and  since  the  folding  granite 
masses  have  been  intruded.  Their  relation  to  the  gneissoid  series  was 
not  definitely  determined,  but  they  are  believed  to  be  younger  and 
are  probably  the  equivalent  of  some  member  of  the  Nasina  series. 
They  are  typically  exposed  along  the  Tanana  between  the  mouth  of 
the  Chena  and  Nilkoka  rivers,  and  they  also  form  the  Bean  Ridge 
north  of  Baker  Creek.  On  the  Upper  Tanana,  near  the  mouth  of 
Scotty  and  Gardiner  creeks,  are  found  some  phyllites  and  impure 
limestones  which  have  been  tentatively  classed  with  the  Tanana 
schists.  The  north  sides  of  the  valleys  of  Mirror  and  Snag  rivers  are 
made  up  of  greenstones  and  greenstone-schists.  These  are  altered 
basic  igneous  rocks  which  are  believed  to  have  been  intruded  in  the 
Tanana  schists. 

Welleslcy  formation. — This  is  a  heavy  bed  of  massive  conglomerate 
over  a  thousand  feet  thick,  interlarded  with  beds  of  clay  slates, 
frequently  carbonaceous.  It  is  of  Devonian  or  Carboniferous  age. 
The  bowlders  of  the  conglomerate  are  largely  derived  from  the  green- 
stones above  described,  but  some  are  of  massive  quartzite.  A  few 
granite  dikes  were  found  cutting  the  associated  slates.  This  forma- 
tion is  folded  and  faulted,  and  the  slates  are  locally  altered  to  phyllite. 
Wellesley  Mountain  is  made  up  of  this  formation,  and  it  also  occurs  in 
extensive  exposures  in  the  valley  of  Mirror  Creek. 

N ilkoUa  formation . — The  rocks  of  this  formation  are  greenish  and 
reddish  clay  slates  associated  with  some  fine  conglomerates  and  sand- 
stones. They  are  closely  folded,  but  unaltered,  and  are  probably  of 
Paleozoic  age  or  younger.  This  formation  occupies  a  belt  between  the 
Nilkoka  River  and  Baker  Creek. 

Younger  sedimentary  rocks. — A  few  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Tok 
River,  on  the  Tanana,  were  found  a  few  exposures  of  a  soft  yellow 
sandstone  which  was  very  gently  folded.  It  contained  a  few  frag- 
mentary plant  remains,  not  siiilficient  to  determine  its  horizon,  but 


WHITE    RIVEK-TANANA    EXPEDITION.  69 

from  its  general  character  it  seems  probable  that  it  is  of  Cenozoic  age. 
A  few  basic  dikes  were  found  in  it. 

Igneous  rocks. — The  igneous  rocks  occurring  as  intrusions  in  the 
various  formations  have  already  been  referred  to.  Besides  these, 
small  areas  of  andesitic  and  rhyolitic  lavas  were  found  at  several 
localities. 

Summary  of  the  bed-rock  geology. — The  gneisses  are  believed  to  be 
the  oldest  rocks  of  the  region.  They  are  flanked  on  the  north  at  the 
Lower  White  River  by  the  Nasina  series,  and  on  the  south  by  the 
Tanana  schists  and  associated  greenstones.  In  the  Mirror  Creek  Val- 
ley the  Tanana  schists  are  unconformably  overlain  by  the  Wellesley 
formation.  On  the  Lower  Tanana  the  Tanana  schists  are  found  again 
north  of  the  gneisses,  and  continue  to  be  the  country  rock  to  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  except  between  the  Nilkoka  River  and  Baker 
Creek,  a  stretch  which  is  occupied  by  the  younger  N^ilkoka  formation* 
The  Nilkoka  rocks  seem  to  occupy  a  basin  flanked  on  the  other  side 
by  the  older  rocks. 

From  the  White  River  west  to  near  the  Chena  River  the  general 
strike  is  NW.-SE.,  while  at  the  first  exposures  seen  beyond  the  valley 
of  the  Chena  the  strike  has  swung  around  at  right  angles  to  it8  former 
direction  and  runs  NE.-SW.  This  remarkable  change  in  direction  has 
already  been  noted  in  the  general  descriptions  of  the  geology  of  the 
Yukon  district.  On  the  White  and  on  the  upper  half  of  the  Tanana 
a  line  of  deformation  at  right  angles  to  the  dominant  strike  was  noted. 

Glacial  phenomena. — The  northern  limit  of  general  glaciation,  as 
noted  by  Hayes,  crosses  the  White  near  the  mouth  of  the  Donjek 
River.  The  valley  of  the  White  River  proper  has,  however,  been 
glaciated  nearly  to  the  mouth  of  the  Klota,8sin.  From  our  route  of 
travel  a  number  of  glaciers  were  seen  in  the  high  mountains  to  the 
north,  but  there  was  no  opportunity  to  visit  them.  Several  valleys 
of  the  southern  tributaries  of  the  Tanana  which  have  their  sources  in 
the  snow-clad  mountains  have  in  recent  times  been  occupied  by  gla- 
ciers. In  the  case  of  the  Delta  River  the  glacier  must  have  blocked 
the  entire  valley,  for  the  terminal  moraine  lies  in  part  against  the 
north  wall  of  the  valley. 

Silts  and  gravels. — The  White  River  Valley  above  the  lower  gorge 
contains  numerous  terraces  and  benches  of  silts  and  gravels,  some  of 
■which  are  several  hundred  feet  above  the  present  river  level.  On  the 
lower  half  of  the  Tanana  similar  terraces  are  found.  Lack  of  space 
will  not  permit  a  detailed  description  and  consideration  of  these 
phenomena.  Fossil  evidence  goes  to  show  that  these  deposits  are  in 
part  fresh-water,  lake  and  river  beds;  some  may  be  marine  deposits. 

Volcanic  ash. — Dawson  and  Hayes  have  described  the  white  volcanic 
ash  which  is  distributed  over  a  large  area  about  the  head  of  the  White 
River  and  along  the  lower  courses  of  the  Pelly  and  Lewes.      We 


70  MAPS    AND    DESCKIITIONS    OF    ALASKA. 

observetl  thiH  ash  on  Suag  River  and  traced  it  westward  on  the  Tanana 
nearly  to  the  nioutli  of  the  Tok.  Throughout  this  region  it  is  usu- 
ally covered  by  a  few  inches  of  soil. 

MINERAL   RESOURCES. 
GOhD. 

So  far  as  our  information  goes,  no  gold  deposits  were  being 
mined  in  either  the  White  or  the  Tanana  basin  last  summer.  About 
a  yejir  ago  there  was  a  stampede  to  the  Lower  White  to  stake  quartz 
claims.  There  Ls  also  a  storj^  current  that  a  prospector  took  out  sev- 
eral thousand  dollars  on  the  Delta  River  about  two  years  ago,  but  this 
has  never  been  verified.  The  results  of  our  own  investigations, 
limited  as  they  were  to  one  line  of  travel,  with  seldom  any  oppor- 
tunity to  wash  anything  but  the  river  bars,  are  not  conclusive  as  to 
the  presence  or  absence  of  workable  gold  deposits. 

The  Lower  White  River  has  been  more  or  less  visited  by  prospectors, 
but  the  Tanana  may  be  considered  almost  a  virgin  field.  Though  in 
the  aggregate  many  prospectors  have  made  hurried  trips  through  this 
valley,  little  or  no  thorough  work  has  been  done.  These  parties  have 
usually  reached  the  Tanana  when  their  provisions  were  nearly 
exhausted  and  they  were  forced  to  build  rafts  and  hurriedly  push 
for  the  mouth  of  the  river,  doing  but  little  prospecting  along  the  river 
bars.  Late  last  summer  several  parties  reached  the  Tanana  prepared 
to  spend  the  winter,  and  it  is  only  by  such  means  that  the  work  of 
prospecting  in  this  inaccessible  region  can  be  properly  done. 

On  the  White  River  the  Nasina  series  carries  considerable  mineral- 
ized quartz,  and  the  smaller  tributaries  usually  show  colors  in  the 
gravels.  From  the  fact  that  some  gold  has  been  found  on  the  Selwyn 
River  to  the  east,  and  that  the  rocks  are  probably  the  same  as  those 
that  are  gold  bearing  in  the  Fortymile  and  Sixtymile  districts,  it 
would  seem  as  if  there  ought  to  be  good  chances  for  gold  in  this  part 
of  the  White  River  Basin  also.  On  the  Tanana  below  the  mouth  of 
Mirror  Creek  colors  are  usually  to  be  found  in  the  river  bars  where 
these  consist  of  sand  and  gravel.  In  the  Tanana  region  quartz  veins 
containing  traces  of  gold  were  found  in  every  formation  that  has  been 
described.  The  gneisses  contain  quartz  veins  which  in  some  cases 
give  a  trace  of  gold,  and  in  one  instance  gold  was  found  in  a  shear 
zone  in  the  granite.  The  Tanana  schists,  both  on  the  upper  and  on  the 
lower  river,  are  cut  by  quartz  veins  and  by  veins  of  quartz  and  calcite 
which  contain  some  gold.  A  few  quartz  veins  were  observed  in  the 
slate  of  the  Wellesley  formation,  and  one  of  these  which  was  analyzed 
carried  a  little  gold.  Some  quartz  veins  in  the  Nilkoka  formation 
were  also  found  to  contain  traces  of  gold.  In  all  the  assays  made  of 
the  gold-bearing  quartz  some  silver  was  found  with  the  gold,  but  in 


WHITE    RIVER-TANANA    EXPEDITION.  71 

no  ease  was  the  amount  of  gold  and  silver  found  in  the  veins  of  suf- 
ficient quantity  to  be  of  any  commercial  value. 

All  the  southern  tributaries  of  the  Tanana  l)etween  Eobertson  and 
Silokh  rivers  gave  good  colors.  The  streams  entering  the  Tanana 
from  the  north  have  currents  too  sluggish  to  carry  anything  but  flour 
gold.  We  would  call  attention  to  the  fact  that  the  gravel  and  sands 
of  the  river  terraces  here,  as  elsewhere  in  Alaska,  frequently  contain 
small  amounts  of  gold,  which,  like  the  deposits  in  which  it  occurs, 
may  be  of  more  or  less  remote  derivation.  Such  gold  may  find  its 
way  into  the  present  river  bars,  and  the  finding  of  colors  should 
therefore  not  be  considered  evidence  of  the  presence  of  gold  in  the 
rocks  of  the  vicinity. 

COPPER. 

There  have  long  been  traditions  of  copper  deposits  on  the  White 
and  Tanana  rivers  as  well  as  on  the  Copper.  In  1891  Dr.  Hayes  was 
conducted  by  the  Indians  to  the  deposits  on  the  White  Eiver  from 
which  they  obtained  their  copper.  This  deposit,  on  Kletsan  Creek 
near  the  head  of  the  White  Eiver,  proved  to  be  a  placer  containing 
nuggets  of  native  copper,  the  largest  of  which  weighed  several  ounces.^ 
Dr.  Haj'es  was  also  shown  some  azurite  which  the  Indians  told  him 
came  from  the  White  Eiver  region.  There  are  fairly  well  authen- 
ticated stories  of  the  finding  of  copper  ores  on  the  Upper  Tanana.  In 
our  trip  last  summer  we  were  unable  to  verify  these  stories  by 
personal  observation. 

COAIi. 

Coal  is  said  to  exist  in  considerable  quantities  on  some  of  the  tribu- 
taries of  the  Tanana.  Not  having  had  time  to  explore  any  of  the  side 
streams,  we  are  unable  to  substantiate  these  statements. 

TIMBER. 

What  has  been  said  elsewhere  of  the  timber  of  the  Yukon  district 
applies  equally  to  the  Tanana  and  White  rivers.  According  to  the 
standard  of  the  interior  of  Alaska,  much  good  timber  is  to  be  found 
on  both  these  rivers.  The  timber  line  is  at  an  altitude  of  about  3,000 
feet,  and  the  chief  varieties  are  cottonwood,  spruce,  white  birch,  alder, 
and  willow.  Forest  fires  are  annually  destroying  much  timber  in  the 
region. 

GAME. 

Moose,  caribou,  and  several  varieties  of  bear  are  common  in  many 
parts  of  the  basins,  while  the  mountain  goat  and  the  bighorn  are  found 


»  A  trip  to  the  Yukon  Basin,  by  C.  Willard  Hayes;  Nat.  Geog.  Mag.,  Vol.  IV,  1892,  pp.  144-145. 


72  MAPS    AND    DESCRIPTIONS    OF    ALASKA. 

iu  the  hiji^luT  mountains.  One  of  the  chief  sources  of  food  supply  of 
the  natives  are  the  salmon,  which  ascend  the  White  probably  as  far  as 
the  Tvlotassin,  and  the  Tanana  to  about  the  foot  of  Bates  Rapids. 

CLIMATE. 

The  climate,  like  that  of  most  of  the  Yukon  35asiu,  is  semi-arid, 
with  short  hot  summers  and  lon^  cold  winters.  The  accompanying 
table  gives  a  summary  of  our  meteorological  observations. 

Temperature  observations  on  the  White  and  Tanana  rivers  in  1898. 


Month. 


June . . . 
July. . . . 
August . 


Mini- 
mum. 


42= 
42"= 
41= 


Maxi- 
mum. 


70° 
75° 
63° 


Rainy 

days. 


3 

10 


AGRICULTUEE, 

The  agricultural  possibilities  of  the  Yukon  district  have  been 
treated  elsewhere  in  this  report;  and  what  has  been  said  there 
applies  equally  well  to  the  Tanana  region.  The  Tanana  Valley  has  a 
rather  more  luxuriant  vegetation  than  the  White  River  Valley.  Some 
of  the  hardier  grains,  potatoes,  and  vegetables  could  probably  be 
grown  there.  The  native  grasses  of  the  Tanana  Flats  are  said  to  fur- 
nish excellent  pasturage  by  those  M^ho  have  used  pack  horses  in  the 
region. 

ROUTES  AND  MEANS  OF  TRANSPORTATION. 

In  the  past,  traveling  in  this  region  has  been  limited  chiefly  to  the 
large  waterways,  on  which  boats  and  canoes  were  used  in  summer  and 
sleds  in  winter.  The  development  of  the  district  will  be  rapidly 
advanced  by  the  introduction  of  steamboat  navigation  on  the  Tanana 
and  the  use  of  pack  animals  throughout  the  entire  region.  Grass  for 
stock  will  be  found  from  about  the  1st  of  June  to  the  middle  of  Sep- 
tember. 

White  River. — Navigation  of  the  WTiite  River  may  be  said  to  be 
almost  entirely  impracticable.  It  is  possible,  however,  that  the 
mouth  of  Ladue  Creek  might  be  reached  in  a  shallow-draft  boat  with 
a  powerful  engine.  The  experience  of  our  party  last  summer  shows 
that  the  small  boats  or  canoes  can  reach  the  mouth  of  Snag  River,  but 
it  is  doubtful  whether  this  is  an  economical  method  of  arriving  at  that 
point.  Sledding  up  the  White  River  on  the  ice  has  been  done  and  is 
entirely  feasible.     This  stream,  on  account  of  its  swift  current,  is  said 


WHITE    RIVER-TANANA    EXPEDITION.  73 

to  remain  open  a  month  later  in  the  fall  and  to  break  a  month  earlier 
in  the  spring  than  the  Yukon  near  the  mouth  of  the  White  River. 

Trails  to  White  River. — The  head  of  the  White  River  could  probably 
be  reached  by  pack  train  from  Lynn  Canal,  The  Chilkat  Indians  are 
said  to  have  had  a  route  across  the  head  of  the  White  to  the  Tanana, 
which  was  used  by  them  for  trading  with  the  Indians  of  the  interior. 
It  is  reported  that  a  party  of  miners  crossed  from  Yakutat  Bay  to  the 
White  last  summer.  Last  season  Mr.  J.  B.  Tyrrell  traversed  the 
region  from  Chilkat  Inlet  to  the  mouth  of  the  Nissling,  His  report  has 
not  been  published,  but  he  tells  us  that  the  route  is  not  a  difficult  one. 
The  route  from  the  Copper  River  over  the  Scolai  Pass  is  not  likely  to 
recommend  itself,  because  of  the  difficulty  of  ascending  the  Chittyna 
River.  The  Schwatka  and  Hayes  route  from  Fort  Selkirk  to  the 
White  is  entirely  feasible  for  pack  animals,  but  is  not  so  favorable  as 
the  routes  farther  south.  The  Lower  White  can  be  reached  from 
Sixtymile  River  by  crossing  the  divide  and  coming  down  Ladue  Creek. 

Tanana  River. — There  are  no  serious  difficulties  in  navigating  the 
Tanana  River  up  to  the  point  where  it  broadens  out  above  the  mouth 
of  the  Cantwell,  a  distance  of  about  170  miles.  From  this  point  to 
where  the  Forty  mile- Suslota  trail  crosses,  the  river  can  be  ascended 
only  by  a  steamer  especially  adapted  for  the  purpose.  Such  a  steamer 
must  be  capable  of  making  progress  against  an  8 -mile  current  and 
should  have  facilities  for  warping  where  it  is  necessary.  In  this  por- 
tion of  the  river  are  usually  many  channels,  and  by  carefully  picking 
the  route  much  of  the  swifter  water  can  be  avoided.  A  slough  some 
30  miles  in  length  which  is  suitable  for  steamboat  navigation  is  said 
to  extend  from  below  the  mouth  of  the  Chena  River  to  the  Salchacket, 
close  to  the  north  bank  of  the  Tanana.  From  the  Forty  mile  trail  to 
Gardiner  Creek  the  current  of  the  Tanana  is  very  moderate,  and  a  flat- 
bottomed  steam  launch  drawing  not  over  18  inches  of  water  could 
easily  navigate  this  part  of  the  river. 

Of  the  tributaries  of  the  Tanana,  the  Goodpaster,  Volkmar,  Sal- 
chacket, Chena,  and  Toclat  rivers  could  probably  be  ascended  for 
some  distance  by  small  steamers. 

Trails  to  the  Tanana. — The  upper  part  of  the  Tanana  can  easily  be 
reached  from  the  White  by  the  route  which  our  party  took  last  sum- 
mer. There  are  said  to  be  other  portages,  from  Ladue  Creek  and 
Katrina  River,  to  tributaries  of  the  Tanana.  Pack  trains  have  been 
brought  to  the  Tanana  from  the  Copper  River  by  both  the  Suslota  and 
the  Mentasta  passes,  and  neither  route  offers  any  serious  difficulties. 
From  the  Sushitna  the  Tanana  can  be  reached  by  both  the  Delta  and 
the  Cantwell  river  valleys.  The  best- known  route  to  the  Tanana  is 
by  the  trail  from  Fortymile  Creek,  which  has  long  been  used  bj^  the 
Indians.  It  runs  from  the  Ketchumstock  Indian  village  to  Tanana 
River  over  a  low  rolling  country,  and  the  distance  is  estimated  at 


74  MAPS    AND    DESCRIPTIONS    OF    ALASKA. 

40  miles.  Several  routes  have  been  followed  by  pack  trains  from  this 
part  of  the  Tanana  to  Dawson  and  to  the  Fortymile  district.  A  paek- 
tniin  route  was  also  established  last  summer  from  Circle  City  to  the 
Tanana  by  way  of  Birch  Creek;  this  trail  reaches  the  Tanana  near  the 
Salchacket  River,  and  is  indicated  on  the  accompanying  map  (No.  9). 
An  old  Indian  portajj:e  extends  from  the  Toclat  River  to  the  Kusko- 
kwim,  a  route  siiid  to  have  been  used  by  traders  many  years  ago. 

Railway  routes. — A  railroad  crossing  from  Chilkat  Inlet  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Xissling  could  easily  be  extended  to  the  mouth  of  the  White  or 
across  to  the  Tanana  Valley.  A  railroad  from  the  Copper  River  could 
cross  the  Mentasta  PavSS  and  from  the  Tanana  be  extended  to  the  Forty- 
mile  district  by  following  the  route  of  the  well-known  trail.  It  is 
probable,  also,  that  a  railroad  could  be  built  at  no  great  cost  up  the 
valley  of  the  Chena  or  of  the  Salchacket  River  and,  crossing  into  the 
Birch  Creek  district,  reach  the  Yukon  near  Circle  City.  Of  the  latter 
route  we  have  less  definite  information. 

INHABITANTS. 

Whites. — ^There  were  last  summer  possibly  50  prospectors  in  the 
entire  Tanana  district,  and  there  may  have  been  a  few  in  the  White 
River  region,  but  if  so  we  saw  nothing  of  them.  Of  those  on  the 
Tanana,  a  few  spent  the  winter,  but  many  came  out  in  the  fall. 

Indians. — The  Indians  of  the  White  and  Tanana  basins,  like  the 
others  of  the  interior  of  Alaska,  are  of  Athapascan  stock.  Those  of 
the  White  River  live  entirely  on  its  southeastern  tributaries,  and  Dr. 
Hayes  has  given  some  account  of  them  in  the  report  already  cited. 
The  Indians  of  the  Tanana  may  be  divided  into  three  geographic 
groups:  first,  those  living  near  the  Tok  and  Tetliug  rivers;  second, 
those  of  the  Middle  Tanana,  living  near  the  Volkmar  and  Delta  rivers; 
and  lastly,  those  of  the  lower  river,  whose  scattered  settlements 
extend  about  170  miles  up  the  river,  to  where  swift  water  begins.  The 
Indians  of  the  Tanana  compare  very  favorably  with  the  other  Indians 
of  the  interior.  They  are  kindly,  peaceful  people,  whose  skill  at  cer- 
tain crude  handicrafts  has  long  been  known,  and  so  far  as  our  infor- 
mation goes  they  are  trustworthy  and  reliable. 

MARKS  AND  MONUMENTS  ALONG  THE  ROUTE  OF  TRAVEL. 

1.  Straight  line  trail  blazed  by  party  from  Snag  River  to  head  waters  of 
Min-or  Creek.     Legend  on  tree  at  Snag  River. 

2.  Spnice  tree  peeled  and  marked  "U.  S.  G.  S.,"  on  left  bank  at  crossing  of 
Fortyinile-Mentasta  trail. 

3.  Spruce  tree  on  right  bank  30  feet  above  the  river  at  mouth  of  Johnson 
River,  blazed  and  marked  "U.  S.  G.  S." 

4.  Mound  of  stone  and  blazed  tree  on  right  bank,  marked  "U.  S.  G.  S.," 
mouth  of  Delta  River. 

5.  Cairn  of  stone  on  right  bank  of  Tanana  at  foot  of  Bates  Rapids,  200  feet 


WHITE    RIVEK-TANANA    EXPEDmON. 


75 


above  river.  Aluminum  tablet;  legend  in  tin  box:  "U.  S.  G.  S.,  August  28, 
1898,  William  J.  Peters,  Alfred  H.  Brooks,  L.  D.  Gardiner,  Charles  Ray,  H. 
B.  Baker,  A.  R.  Airs.  End  of  stadia  line."  This  monument  is  about  15  miles 
above  the  mouth  of  Cantwell  River,  latitude  64°  42'. 

Table  of  approximate  distances  on  While  and  Tanana  rivers. 

Miles. 

White  River: 

Mouth  of  White  River  to  mouth  of  Snag  River 85 

Mouth  of  White  River  to  portage  from  Snag  River 151 

Portage  Snag  River  to  Mirror  Creek 4 

Tanana  River: 

Mouth  of  Tanana  River  to  head  of  easy  navigation 171 

Mouth  of  Tanana  River  to  Birch  Creek  trail 231 

Mouth  of  Tanana  River  to  Volkmar  River 281 

Mouth  of  Tanana  River  to  Fortymile-Mentasta  Pass  trail ....  410 

Mouth  of  Tanana  River  to  mouth  of  Mirror  Creek 560 

Mouth  of  Tanana  River  to  portage  at  head  of  Mirror  Creek . .  610 

Magnetic  declinations,  White  and  Tanana  rivers,  1898. 


Lat.  (N.) 


63  18 
63  14 
62  52 
62  37 

62  40 

63  11 

63  25 

64  42 


Long.  (W.) 


139  35 

140  23 

140  13 

141  13 

141  27 

142  36 

143  27 
148  48 


Place. 


Mouth  White  River 

Mouth  Ladue  Creek 

Foot  Caribou  Mountain 

Mirror  Creek 

Mouth  Mirror  Cieek 

Foot  Chusana  Hill 

Fortymile-Mentasta  trail 
U.  S.  G.  S.  monument . . 


Date. 

Distance 

(E). 

June    8 

34.25 

June  15 

33.25 

June  27 

34 

July  29 

82.25 

Aug.     2 

32.25 

Aug.     9 

32.75 

Aug.   12 

33.25 

Aug.  27 

31.25 

REPORT  OF  THE   FORTYMILE  EXPEDITION. 


By  E.  C.  Barnard. 


ITINERARY, 


The  party  left  Seattle  on  April  4,  on  the  U.  S.  S.  Wheeling,  and 
arrived  in  Skagway  on  April  11.  It  was  found  that  the  reindeer 
wliicli  were  originally  intended  for  the  party  were  too  weak  to  travel, 
so  other  means  of  transportation  had  to  be  looked  for.  It  was  also 
decided  that  the  Dalton  trail  was  impracticable  at  this  time  of  year, 
which  left  a  choice  of  two  routes,  one  by  way  of  Dyea  and  the  Chil- 
koot  Pass,  and  the  other  by  way  of  Skagway  and  the  White  Pass. 
Aft«r  a  careful  examination  the  White  Pass  route  was  decided  on, 
as  being  less  congested  and  not  so  liable  to  such  severe  snowstorms  as 
frequently  rage  on  the  summit  of  the  Chilkoot  Pass,  delaying  travel 
for  days  at  a  time. 

A  contract  was  made  for  the  transportation  of  the  w^hole  outfit  to 
Lake  Bennett  at  10^  cents  a  pound,  and  the  members  of  the  party 
walked  to  this  point,  a  distance  of  40  miles,  carrying  only  their 
blankets.  At  Lake  Bennett  another  contract  was  made,  and  the 
heavy  freight  was  forwarded  to  the  head  of  Marsh  Lake,  a  distance 
of  50  miles,  by  horse  sleds,  our  party  following  with  hand  sleds  and 
camping  outfit.  The  ice  was  hard  only  in  places,  and  on  Tagish  Lake 
sails  were  used  on  the  sleds  to  good  advantage.  On  April  28  we  went 
into  camp  at  the  head  of  Marsh  Lake,  it  being  deemed  inadvisable  to 
attempt  to  proceed  farther,  since  the  ice  was  fast  becoming  dangerous. 

While  we  were  waiting  for  the  ice  to  break,  a  large  boat  was  built, 
the  six  Peterboro  canoes  which  we  had  brought  being  of  insufficient 
capacity  to  carry  all  our  supplies,  and  sails  were  made  for  the  boat 
and  canoes.  A  map  of  Marsh  Lake  and  vicinity  was  made,  and  a 
reconnaissance  survey  was  run  over  to  Lake  Aklen  and  the  Teslin 
drainage.  By  the  1st  of  May  crocuses  and  other  wild  flowers  were 
in  bloom,  and  mosquitoes  had  made  their  appearance. 

On  May  27,  as  there  was  an  apparently  clear  channel  near  the  west 
bank  of  the  lake,  we  loaded  our  boats  and  set  sail.  The  next  night 
we  had  l)een  joined  by  over  one  hundred  boats.  The  following  day 
we  narrowly  escaped  having  our  boats  crushed  by  a  jam  of  ice  which 
the  wind  drove  on  the  shore,  but  many  who  were  camped  along  the 
lake  were  not  so  fortunate. 

As  there  was  no  indication  of  a  channel  opening  for  the  big  boat, 
she  was  left  with  four  men  to  follow  us;  and  by  portaging  the  canoes 

'  See  map  No.  10,  in  accompanying  envelope. 
76 


FORTYMILE    EXPEDITIOISr.  77 

and  their  contents  for  a  mile,  open  water  was  again  reached.  After 
five  hours  of  wading  and  pulling  the  canoes  over  the  soft  mud,  we 
got  past  the  ice  field,  and,  setting  sail,  were  in  the  mouth  of  the  Lewes 
River  by  nightfall. 

At  Miles  Canyon  we  found  a  number  of  experienced  pilots  who 
made  a  business  of  running  boats  through,  their  fee  being  from  $20  to 
$50,  according  to  size.  Some  of  these  men  made  as  high  as  $500  a 
day.  As  a  rule  two  pilots  had  charge  of  a  boat,  with  steering  oars 
bow  and  stern,  while  two  men  rowed  to  keep  headway.  However, 
two  horse  tramways  were  almost  completed  around  the  canyon  and 
rapids,  and,  deeming  it  dangerous  to  attempt  running  the  canyon  with 
our  heavily  loaded  canoes,  a  contract  was  made  for  portaging  every- 
thing, and  the  outfit  was  all  below  the  White  Horse  Rapids  by  10 
o'clock  the  next  morning.    We  arrived  at  Lake  Lebarge  that  night. 

A  short  stop  was  made  at  Fort  Selkirk,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Pelly 
River.  This  is  one  terminus  of  the  Dalton  trail;  the  other,  which 
was  more  used  during  the  last  summer,  strikes  the  Yukon  at  the 
Nordenskiold  River  above.  On  the  6th  of  June  we  left  Mr.  Peters's 
party  at  the  mouth  of  White  River,  and  reached  Dawson,  the 
central  camp  of  the  Klondike  region,  that  night.  This  was  a  typical 
frontier  town,  with  one  main  street  and  a  population  of  about  5,000. 
Here  we  were  joined  by  our  big  boat,  which  had  successfully  run  the 
canyon  and  rapids,  and  then  we  kept  on  to  Fortymile  Post,  at  the 
mouth  of  Fortymile  Creek.  Leaving  most  of  our  outfit  here,  we 
dropped  down  the  Yukon  40  miles  to  the  international  boundary, 
where  the  United  States  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  had  already 
determined  an  astronomic  position  and  the  geodetic  coordinates  of  sev- 
eral summits.  From  this  as  a  base,  triangulation  was  extended  into 
American  territory.  Field  work  was  begun  on  June  12.  The  next 
two  weeks  were  spent  in  making  a  stadia  survey  of  the  Yukon  River 
within  the  limits  of  the  area  shown  on  the  accompanying  map  (No.  10), 
and  in  extending  the  triangulation  control  over  the  region.  We  then 
ascended  the  Yukon  again  to  Fortymile  Post.  During  this  time  our 
work  had  been  delayed  by  extensive  forest  fires,  which  destroyed  much 
timber  during  the  last  summer. 

On  June  29  we  started  up  Fortymile  Creek  in  three  canoes,  with 
supplies  for  six  weeks.  The  ascent  of  the  stream  is  not  easy,  and  it 
took  us  three  days  to  make  the  23  miles  to  the  boundary  line.  A  per- 
manent cache  was  made  in  Nugget  Gulch,  and  packing  trips  were 
made  into  the  country  to  obtain  the  topography.  A  stadia  survey 
was  also  made  of  Fortymile  Creek  within  the  limits  of  the  area  shown 
on  the  special  map  No.  10.  We  were  eighteen  days  on  one  packing 
trip,  traveling  about  150  miles. 

On  August  8,  having  completed  the  mapping  of  this  district,  we 
started  down  the  Fortymile  for  the  Yukon.     On  account  of  the  low 


78  MAPS    AND    DESORIPIIONS    OF    ALASKA. 

Stage  of  the  water  and  the  luimerous  roeks,  we  fouud  descending 
attended  with  more  risk  than  ascending;  bnt  we  re;iched  Fortyinile 
Post  without  accident,  and,  taking  our  remaining  supplies,  floated 
down  to  Eagle  City,  a  new  town  in  American  territory  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Yukon  12  miles  from  the  boundary  line. 

At  Eagle  City  the  party  divided  and  went  in  ditlerent  directions, 
thus  succeeding  in  finishing  the  map  by  September  1,  when  all  work 
except  the  reading  of  angles  on  one  mountain  peak  was  completed. 
On  account  of  rain  and  clouds,  we  had  to  ascend  this  peak  five  times 
before  the  desired  angles  were  obtained .  On  September  15  we  started 
down  the  river  for  St.  Michael,  where  we  arrived  September  25,  and 
through  the  courtesy  of  Captain  Sebree,  of  the  U.  S.  S.  Wheeling, 
who  kindly  put  the  steamer's  launch  at  our  disposal,  we  were  enabled 
to  join  ]\Ir.  Peters's  party  aboard  the  Conemore,  and  two  hours  after 
our  arrival  in  St.  Michael  we  were  steaming  south.  We  arrived  in 
Seattle  October  5. 

METHODS   OF   WORK. 

The  plane-table  method  was  followed  in  mapping,  as  the  country 
was  admirably  adapted  to  it  on  account  of  the  bare  summits.  The 
important  streams,  such  as  the  Yukon  Eiver  and  Fortymile  Creek, 
were  mapped  by  stadia  work  and  fitted  in  between  located  points. 
Pacing  meanders  were  made  of  Seventymile,  Mission,  and  American 
creeks  and  a  portion  of  O'Brien  Creek.  The  ridges  were  followed  and 
plane-table  stations  were  made  on  the  more  important  points,  from 
which  a  sufficient  number  of  hill  summits  and  forks  of  streams  Mere 
cut  in;  then  the  drainage  was  sketched,  giving  a  fairly  accurate  map. 
Elevations  of  important  points  were  determined  by  dip  angles,  the 
datum  being  the  transit  house  at  Camp  Davidson,  estimated  by  the 
United  States  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  to  be  575  feet  above  mean 
sea  level.  No  attempt  was  made  to  draw  in  continuous  contours  on 
the  plane  table  in  the  field,  as  is  the  rule  on  larger  scales;  but  the 
shapes  of  the  hills  and  valleys  were  indicated  by  sketch  contours,  and 
the  corrected  contours  were  drawn  in  in  the  office. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

The  dome- shaped  hills  are  the  striking  topographic  features  of  this 
section.  These  hills  are  joined  by  comparatively  flat  ridges  whose  gaps 
or  lowest  portions  appear  to  have  a  general  mean  level  of  3,200  feet, 
and  are  usually  timbered.  From  the  domes  and  ridges  flat,  gently 
sloping  spurs  run  out,  terminating  with  a  rather  sharp  fall-oft"  at  the 
streams.  The  domes  themselves  are  chiefly  of  granite,  though  some 
are  composed  of  schists,  or  more  rarely  of  limestone;  they  are  from 
3,500  to  4,500  feet  high,  with  a  uniformly  flat  top  from  100  yards  to 
one- fourth  of  a  mile  across.     From  the  top  a  sharp  descent  of  50  to 


FORTYAHLE   EXPEDITION.  79 

100  feet  reaches  the  surrounding  plateau.  In  the  northwest  comer 
of  the  mapped  area  some  ridges  reach  an  elevation  of  6,000  feet;  these 
have  been  called  the  Glacier  Mountains,  on  account  of  the  beautiful 
examples  of  local  (annual)  glaciation  here. 

Fortymile  Creek  has  cut  its  course  deeply  through  an  older  valley, 
leaving  benches  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  a  mile  wide,  which  preserve  a 
mean  elevation  of  about  500  feet  above  the  present  stream  bed.  The 
stream  has  an  average  fall  of  8  feet  to  the  mile,  with  numerous  riffles. 
This  fall  permits  of  water  being  easily  diverted  for  sluicing  on  the 
bars.  Most  of  the  smaller  tributaries  have  some  water  flowing  all 
summer.  Seventy  mile  and  Mission  creeks  do  not  have  the  ancient 
benches  so  well  maiked,  and  the  fall  is  somewhat  greater  than  on 
Fortymile. 

ROUTES. 

In  the  Fortymile  quadrangle  there  are  three  principal  valleys  or 
drainage  areas,  and  as  all  the  mining  is  carried  on  in  these  valleys 
and  those  of  the  tributary  streams,  a  description  of  the  routes  followed 
in  reaching  the  same  may  be  interesting.  The  valleys  are  those  of 
Fortymile,  Seventymile,  and  Mission  creeks. 

That  portion  of  Fortymile  Creek  which  lies  in  American  territory 
may  be  reached  either  by  trail  or  by  boat.  If  pack  animals  are  not 
to  be  had,  which  was  the  case  last  year,  and  a  long  trip  is  to  be  made, 
a  considerable  amount  of  supplies  must  be  taken  and  Fortymile  Creek 
ascended  by  boat  or  canoes  from  its  mouth.  It  is  23  miles  to  American 
territory,  and  the  stream  may  be  ascended  by  tracking  or  poling  to 
the  forks,  and  at  times  of  high  water  up  both  forks  as  far  as  the  map 
extends. 

If  but  a  short  trip  is  to  be  made  the  ridges  may  be  followed  to 
advantage;  and  if  the  start  is  made  from  Fortymile  Post  the  old 
Indian  trail  leading  over  to  the  Tanana  is  the  best.  This  trail  leaves 
the  Fortymile  at  the  mouth  of  Clinton  Creek,  4  miles  from  the  Yukon, 
which  point  is  usually  reached  by  boat.  Then  following  along  the 
ridges,  it  finally  crosses  the  south  fork  of  the  Fortymile  at  the  mouth 
of  Franklin  Creek,  and,  going  up  Frauklin  Creek,  crosses  to  the 
Mosquito  Fork  and  continues  up  it  to  the  Tanana. 

Should  Eagle  City  be  the  starting  point,  there  is  a  good  trail  which 
crosses  the  flat  to  American  Creek  about  3  miles  from  its  mouth,  and 
then  ascends  the  ridge  between  Mission  and  American  creeks;  and 
once  on  top  of  the  ridges,  one  can  travel  with  ease  in  any  direction. 
Mission  and  American  creeks  are  not  of  sufficient  size  to  permit  of 
ascending  in  boats,  and  the  head  waters  are  best  reached  by  following 
the  ridges. 

Seventymile  Creek  may  be  ascended  a  short  distance  in  boats,  but 
the  head  waters  are  more  accessible  from  Eagle  City  by  going  up 

&- Alaska. 


80  MAPS    AND    DESCRIPTIONS    OF    ALASKA. 

Mission  Creek  and  crossing  through  a  low  gap  to  the  Seventymile 
dminage,  or  by  following  the  ridgea. 

METHODS  OF  TRAVEL. 

Ill  regard  to  ti-avel  in  general,  Eagle  City  is  a  good  center  for  mak- 
ing trips  from  the  Yukon  to  tlie  interior,  and  is  especially  well 
located  for  the  distribution  of  supplies  to  the  valleys,  if  pack  animals 
are  obtainable. 

The  way  to  travel  with  pack  animals  is  to  follow  the  ridges,  which 
are  bare  and  hard,  affording  good  passage  for  both  men  and  animals. 
The  valleys,  as  a  rule,  are  hard  to  travel,  owing  to  the  frequent  occur- 
rence of  ' '  niggerhead  "  marshes,  and  the  hillsides  are  steep  and  rather 
brushy.  The  gaps  in  the  ridges  are  not  very  low,  and  the  descents 
into  them  are,  as  a  rule,  gradual.  There  is  an  abundance  of  feed  for 
animals  all  over  this  area  during  the  months  of  June,  July,  August, 
and  September,  and  good  water  is  readily  found. 

POPULATION. 

Eagle  City  is  the  important  town  of  the  Upper  Yukon  in  American 
territory  to-day;  it  is  finely  located,  just  above  the  mouth  of  Mission 
Creek,  on  a  flat  sufficiently  high  to  be  above  the  flood  plain  of  the 
Yukon.  It  now  has  500  or  more  cabins,  with  a  population  of  about 
1,700.  There  is  a  post-office,  and  the  three  important  companies  on 
the  Yukon  —  Alaska  Commercial  Company,  North  American  Transpor- 
tation and  Trading  Company,  and  Alaska  Exploration  Company — 
have  stores  there.     There  is  also  a  sawmill  of  considerable  capacity. 

Seventymile  City  and  Star  City  are  small  towns  about  a  mile  apart 
at  the  mouth  of  Seventymile  Creek,  having  a  total  population  of  about 
500. 

On  Fortymile  Creek  and  its  tributaries  there  are  probably  300  miners; 
on  IMission  and  American  creeks,  including  Eagle  City  and  adjacent 
creeks,  2,000;  on  Seventymile  Creek  and  its  tributaries,  700;  making 
a  total  of  3,000  people  in  the  area  covered  by  the  map. 

MINING  ACTIVITY, 
GOLD. 

Gold  was  discovered  on  Fortymile  Creek  in  1886,  and  work  has 
been  continued  there  ever  since.  Early  work  was  done  on  Canyon 
and  Nugget  gulches  and  at  "Walkers  Fork.  During  the  last  year 
mining  has  been  successfully  carried  on  on  Napoleon,  Chicken,  and 
Franklin  creeks. 

American  Creek  produced  considerable  gold  last  year.  Over  the 
entire  area  numerous  claims  are  staked,  and  much  prospecting  has 


FORTYMILE    EXPEDITION. 


81 


been  done  the  last  winter.  Some  of  the  places  where  many  miners 
are  at  work  are  Canyon  Creek,  Dome  and  Alder  creeks  (tributaries  of 
O'Brien  Creek),  Walkers  Fork,  American  Creek  (especially  on  Dis- 
covery Fork),  Marion  and  Sawpit  creeks.  Boundary  and  Castalia 
creeks,  Cuban  Gulch,  and  all  along  Seventymile  Creek. 

COAL. 

Lignitic  coal  is  found  on  American  Creek  about  3  miles  from  Eagle 
City.  I  am  informed  that  this  extends  over  a  considerable  area. 
Following  is  an  analysis  of  a  specimen  of  this  lignite: 

Analysis  of  lignitic  coal  from  American  Greek. 


Per  cent. 


Moisture  in  vacuo 

Volatile  eoiubustible 

Fixed  combustible  (non-coherent) 
Ash  (reddish) 

Total 

Sulphur 


6.75 
39.18 
37.59 
16.53 

100.00 
3.40 


SODA   SPRINGS. 

Soda  springs  exist  at  the  junction  of  Wood  and  Camp  creeks,  tribu- 
taries of  Canyon  Creek,  and  at  the  mouth  of  Soda  Creek  on  the  south 
fork  of  Fortymile,  also  on  the  head  of  Mogul  Creek,  a  tributary  of 
the  Seventymile.  These  spring's  do  not  freeze  over  until  the  tempera- 
ture reaches  30°  or  40°  below  zero.  A  warm  spring  on  Boundary 
Creek  is  said  not  to  freeze  at  all. 

CLIMATE. 

The  following  temperature  observations,  taken  by  Mr.  Ogilvie,  of 
the  Canadian  Government,  at  Fort  Cudahy,  at  the  mouth  of  Fortymile 
Creek,  give  some  idea  of  the  climate. 

Temperature  ohaervations  at  Fort  Ciidahi/,  at  the  mouth  of  Fortymile  Creek. 


Month. 

Lowest 
Temperature. 

Highejit 
Temperature. 

Xote-s. 

Day. 

Degrees. 

Day. 

Degrees. 

Nov.,  1896.. 
Dec,  1896.. 
Jan.,  1897.. 
Feb..  1897.. 
Mar.,  1897.. 

17 
24 
26 

20 

-86.4 
-55 . 5 
-68.5 
-84.5 
-87.2 

t 
14 
29 

+  38.5 
+  6 
+  6 
+  82 
+  40 

Snowed  on  5  days. 
Snowed  on  6  days. 
Snowed  on  4  days. 

13 

Snowed  on  5  days. 

82  MAPS    AND    DESCRIPTIONS    OF    ALASKA. 

Temperature  observations  at  Fort  Gudahy,  at  the  moiUh  of  FortymUe 
Creek. — Continued . 


Month. 

Lowest 
Temperature. 

Hlfchest 
Temperature. 

Notea 

Day. 

Degrees. 

Day. 

Degrees. 

April,  1897. . 
May,  1897.. 
June,  1897.. 

5 
1-3 

-88.2 
-  5 

82 

88 

27.2 

4.8 

1 

-38 

16 

18,  23 

80 

1,  2 

14 

17 

10,  15 
2 

+49 
+62 

80 

81 

76 

63 

51 
+  22.5 

Snowed    4    days  ; 

rained  2  days. 
Snowed     1     day ; 

rained  4  days. 
Rained  12  days. 
(June,  1898,  no  rain.) 
Rained  3  days. 
(July,  1898,  rained  7 

days.) 
Rained  on  8  days. 
(August,  1898,  rained 

10  days.) 
Snowed    2    days  ; 

rained  2  days. 
Rained  1  day. 
Snowed  6  days. 

July,  1897.. 
Aug.,  1897. 

Sep.,  1897.. 

Oct.,  1897... 
Nov.,  1897.. 

27 
31 

30 

6 
29 

Ice  on  Fortymile  Creek  broke  up  on  May  11,  1897;  Yukon  River  broke  up 
on  the  17th  and  ran  thickly  with  ice  until  the  23d. 

Ice  on  the  river  on  September  28,  1897,  which  ran  until  October  13,  when 
the  river  cleared  and  ran  clear  until  October  29;  but  Fortymile  remained 
more  or  less  frozen. 

Ice  set  in  the  Yukon  on  November  5,  1897. 

The  summers  are  comparatively  dry,  the  snow  going  oflF  in  May  and 
falling  to  remain  in  October.  The  average  temperatures  during  the 
summer  months  of  June,  July,  August,  and  September  are  30°  to  40° 
minimum,  and  70°  to  80°  maximum. 

TIMBER. 

Spruce  is  the  prevailing  timber,  and  reaches  a  diameter  of  20  inches, 
the  best  being  found  on  the  flats  and  in  the  heads  of  the  gulches. 
There  is  also  some  white  birch  and  some  poplar  on  the  flats  and  low 
hills.     The  timber  line  is  at  an  altitude  of  about  3,000  feet. 

FOOD  RESOURCES. 

Small  garden  vegetables,  such  as  beets,  cabbage,  lettuce,  radishes, 
and  even  potatoes,  have  been  raised  at  Fortymile  Creek.  Barley  and 
oats  grow  well,  but  we  are  reliably  informed  that  they  will  not  ripen, 
though  they  would  make  good  fodder  for  stock. 

As  for  game,  the  moose,  caribou,  black  and  brown  bear,  and  moun- 
tain goat  are  found  in  this  section,  and  the  bighorn  or  mountain  sheep 
is  said  to  live  on  the  east  side  of  the  Yukon.  On  the  bare  hill  sum- 
mits numerous  ptarmigan  are  found.  The  moose  are  rather  scarce 
and  as  a  rule  are  found  in  the  thick  brush  along  the  streams. 


FORTYMILE    EXI^EDITION.  83 

The  caribou  are  quite  numerous  and  are  found  in  small  bands  on  the 
ridges  during  the  summer.  In  winter  they  herd,  and  are  said  to 
migrate.  They  are  easily  killed,  since  they  are  curious  and  will 
approach  close,  and  large  numbers  are  killed  every  winter  by  the 
Indians.  The  remains  of  a  brush  fence  that  extended  for  several 
miles  were  found  by  our  party.  There  were  openings  at  intervals  in 
this  fence,  and  some  rawhide  lariats  cached  near  one  of  these  openings 
made  it  clear  to  us  that  in  the  openings  nooses  were  set  and  the  caribou 
trapped. 

Grayling  are  found  in  most  of  the  streams,  and  in  the  deep  pools 
of  even  small  ones.  King  and  dog  salmon  ascend  the  Yukon  in  July, 
August,  and  September.  They  are  caught  in  great  numbers  by  the 
Indians  and  dried  for  winter  use  and  for  dog  feed.  The  king  salmon 
is  especially  good  eating,  although  not  very  plentiful;  but  even  the 
dog  salmon  is  a  grateful  change  from  bacon. 


PART  II.— GENERAL  INFORMATION  CONCERNING  THE 
TERRITORY;   BY  GEOGRAPHIC  PROVINCES. 

THE  YUKON   DISTRICT  \ 


By  Alfred  H.  Brooks. 


GEOGRAPHY. 
LIMITS   OF  THE  TUKON  DRAINAGE  BASIN. 

An  examination  of  the  map  of  Alaska  will  show  a  crescent-like  bend 
of  the  coast  along  the  Gulf  of  Alaska,  and  a  study  of  the  dominant 
mountain  chains  will  show  that  they  too  experience  this  marked 
change  in  direction,  which  amounts  almost  to  a  right  angle.  The 
Yukon,  where  it  touches  the  Arctic  Circle,  makes  a  similar  southwest 
bend,  so  that  its  drainage  basin  includes  a  large  irregular-shaped  area 
lying  in  part  in  Alaska  and  in  part  in  British  Northwest  Territory. 
The  chief  of  the  Yukon  tributaries  are  the  Koyukuk,  the  Tanana,  the 
Porcupine,  the  "White,  the  Pelly,  and  the  Lewes;  the  two  last-named 
rivers  unite  to  form  the  Yukon  proper. 

The  head  waters  of  the  Lewes  lie  but  25  miles  distant  from  the  coast 
at  Lynn  Canal.  On  the  southeast,  east,  and  northeast  the  limits  of 
the  Yukon  drainage  basin  lie  first  in  a  low  divide  in  the  interior 

•  In  this  brief  summary  it  would  be  inexpedient  to  make  detailed  references  for  all  the  facte 
cited  from  various  authors.  Those  interested  in  the  geology  and  geography  of  the  region  I  would 
refer  to  the  following  pubhcations,  from  which  many  data  for  this  sketch  were  obtained: 

Alaska  and  its  Resources,  by  Wm.  H.  Dall,  1870. 

Report  on  an  exploration  in  the  Yukon  district,  N.  W.  T.,  and  adjacent  northern  portion  of  British 
Columbia,  by  Greorge  M.  Dawson:  Ann.  Rept.  Geol.  Nat.  Hist.  Survey  Canada,  1887,  Part  B. 

On  the  late  physiographical  geology  of  the  Rocky  Mountain  region  in  Canada,  with  special 
references  to  changes  of  elevation  and  to  the  history  of  the  Glacial  period,  by  G.  M.  Dawson:  Trans. 
Royal  Soc.  Canada,  Vol.  VIH,  1890. 

Report  on  an  exploi-ation  in  the  Yukon  and  Mackenzie  basins,  N.  W.  T.,  by  R.  G.  McConnell: 
Ann.  Rept.  (Jeol.  Nat.  Hist.  Survey  Canada,  Vol.  IV,  1888-89,  Part  D. 

(The  Publications  of  the  Canadian  Geological  Survey  may  be  ordered  through  The  Scientific 
Publishing  Company,  27  Park  Place,  New  York;  also  directly  from  Librarian  Geological  Survey 
Office,  Ottawa.) 

The  Klondike  OfRcial  Guide,  prepared  by  Wm.  Ogilvie,  Dominion  Land  Surveyor  and  Explorer, 
published  by  authority  of  the  Department  of  the  Interior  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada,  1898. 

Notes  on  the  surface  geology  of  Alaska,  by  I.  C.  Russell:  Bull.  Geol.  Soc.  America,  Vol.  1, 1889, 
pp.  99-162. 

An  expedition  through  the  Yukon  district,  by  C.  Willard  Hayes:  Nat.  Geog.  Mag.,  Vol.  IV,  1892, 
pp.  117-162. 

Tlie  Yukon  district,  by  C.  Willard  Hayes:  Jour.  School  Geog.,  Vol.  I,  1894,  pp.  236-241,  269-274. 

Geology  of  the  Yukon  gold  district,  by  Josiah  Edward  Spurr;  with  an  introductory  chapter  on 
the  history  and  condition  of  the  district  to  1897,  by  Harold  Beach  Goodrich:  Eighteenth  Ann. 
Rept.  U.  S.  Geol.  Survey.  Part  III,  1898,  pp.  87-392. 

Die  geologischen  Verhaltnisse  der  Goldlagerstatten  des  Klondikegebietes,  von  Dr.  Otto  Norden- 
skjold,  Upsala:  Zeitschrif t  f Ur  praktische  Geologic,  March,  1899,  p.  71. 


86  MAPS    AND    DKSCKIl^TIONS    OV    ALASKA. 

plateau,  where  the  Yukon  waters  are  separated  from  those  of  the 
Stikineami  a  branch  of  the  Mackenzie,  and  then,  farther  north,  in  the 
northern  extension  of  the  Itocky  Mountains. 

The  Kocky  Mountains  continue  to  near  the  Arctic  Ocean  and  then 
make  an  abrupt  turn  to  the  wcvst,  parallel  to  that  cxjast,  forming  the 
llomanzof,  Davidson,  and  DeLong  mountains,  in  which  lies  the  Arctic- 
Yukon  watershed.  Farther  west  this  divide  is  little  explored,  but  the 
mountains  decline  in  elevation  and  connect  with  those  which  separate 
the  Yukon  and  Kotzebue  Sound  waters. 

On  the  southwest  side  of  the  Yukon  Basin  the  Coa.st  Range  in  its 
northwestern  extension  merges  into  the  interior  plateau,  while  the 
great  mountain  mass  of  the  St.  Elias  Range  forms  the  barrier  between 
the  const  and  the  interior,  and  in  part  also  the  watershed.  This  range 
continues  northward  to  the  head  of  White  River,  beyond  which  the 
divide  is  more  sharply  defined  by  the  Nutzotin  Mountains  and  the 
Alaskan  Range,  which  separate  the  Yukon  waters  from  those  of  the 
Chopper  and  Sushitna  rivers.  In  about  longitude  150°  the  Alaskan 
Pange  makes  a  decided  bend  to  the  southwest,  and  from  this  point  on 
the  Yukon  Basin  is  confined  by  a  minor  range  lying  between  the 
Tauana  and  the  Kuskokwim, 

YUKON   PLATEAU. 

The  Upper  Yukon  Basin  is  an  undulating  dissected  plateau  which 
elopes  to  the  northwest.  On  tlie  Lower  White  River  the  summits 
marking  the  dissected  plateau  stand  at  about  4,800  feet.  The  top  of 
Mount  Chusana,  on  the  Middle  Tanana,  reaches  the  level  of  the  old 
plateau  surface,  which  here  has  an  elevation  of  3,200  feet,  while  in 
the  Fortymile  district  it  is  probably  about  3,500  feet.  The  Mentasta 
Pass,  which  marks  a  decided  break  in  the  mountain  range  and  is  a 
broad,  flat  depression,  probably  indicates  the  same  erosion  surface, 
with  an  elevation  of  3,000  to  4,000  feet.  Remnants  of  the  old  plateau 
have  been  preserved  in  a  series  of  flat-topped  mountains  which  extend 
along  the  Yukon  and  Tanana  divide;  these  attain,  in  the  Birch  Creek 
district,  heights  of  3,500  to  4,000  feet. 

North  of  the  Yukon  our  topographic  data  are  very  meager.  A  low, 
rather  even-crested  mountain  range  called  Yukon  Hills,  Avith  an  ele- 
vation of  1,000  to  2,000  feet,  separates  the  Yukon  and  Koyukuk 
valleys.  The  Snow  Mountains,  described  by  Allen,  have  an  E.-W. 
trend  and  seem  to  rise  above  a  general  flat-topped  upland  surface. 

RIVERS   OF   THE   YUKON   BASIN. 

In  this  account  of  the  rivers  of  the  Yukon  Basin,  because  of  limited 
space,  only  the  larger  ones  have  been  included.  Under  the  description 
of  the  gold  districts  a  brief  account  will  be  found  of  some  of  the  smaller 
rivers  and  creeks  which  are  important  because  of  their  mineral  wealth. 


THE    YUKON    DISTRICT.  87 

The  main  YuJcon  River. — In  its  upper  course,  from  Fort  Selkirk  to 
Circle  City,  the  Yukon  Valley  is  cut  in  the  upland  plateau  already 
described,  and  has  a  width  of  from  1  to  2  miles.  The  sides  of  the 
valley  rise  abruptly  from  the  river,  while  terraces  and  bluffs  are 
prominent  features  of  the  topography,  Near  the  international  bound- 
ary the  valley  contracts  to  about  half  a  mile,  and  the  valley  walls  rise 
rather  precipitously  to  an  elevation  of  1,500  feet  above  the  river. 
From  Circle  City  to  the  Ramparts  the  river  flows  through  what  is 
known  as  the  Yukon  Flats.  This  is  a  broad  lowland  extending  from 
the  Rampart  and  Tanana  mountains  to  the  range  of  hills  separating 
the  Koyukuk  and  the  Yukon,  and  up  the  Porcupine  to  the  lower  ram- 
parts of  that  river;  it  has  a  length  of  nearly  200  miles  and  a  width 
averaging  about  100  miles.  Within  this  lowland  the  Yukon  is  usually 
broad  and  separated  into  many  channels. 

Below  the  flats  the  Yukon  traverses  the  Rampart  Mountains  for  a 
distance  of  about  50  miles;  here  its  valley  is  in  many  places  contracted 
to  less  than  half  a  mile,  while  its  Avails  rise  precipitously,  and  the 
waters  are  confined  to  a  single  channel. 

Below  the  mouth  of  the  Tanana  the  Yukon  has  typically  a  broad 
valley,  meanders  over  a  wide  flood  plain,  and  divides  into  several 
channels.  The  delta  is  about  75  miles  long  and  50  miles  wide,  and 
the  region  about  it  is  flat  and  treeless,  with  occasional  low  mountains 
or  hills,  usually  isolated  and  forming  no  definite  ranges. 

Koyukuk  River. — The  Koyukuk  River  joins  the  Yukon  from  the 
northwest,  about  450  miles  from  its  mouth,  and  is  one  of  its  largest 
tributaries.  It  flows  in  a  generally  southwest  direction  and  has  a 
large  drainage  basin.  Lieutenant  Zagoskin,  of  the  Russian  Navy, 
explored  this  river  for  about  50  miles  in  1842;  but  for  nearly  half  a 
century  afterwards  it  was  known  only  through  the  reports  of  Indians 
and  traders.  In  1885  Lieut.  H.  T.  Allen  made  an  exploration  as  far 
as  the  sixty-seventh  degree  of  latitude,  and  to  the  present  day  his  map 
and  report  afford  the  only  accurate  information  we  have  of  this  river.  ^ 

The  Lower  Koyukuk,  according  to  Allen,  has  an  exceedingly  tortu- 
ous course  for  200  miles  above  its  mouth.  The  only  large  tribiitary 
in  this  part  of  the  river  is  the  Husliakakat,  said  to  be  a  hundred 
yards  wide  at  its  mouth.  This  tributary  heads  near  the  Selawik 
River,  which  flows  into  Kotzebue  Sound,  and  with  which  it  is  probably 
connected  by  trail.  Near  its  mouth  the  Koyukuk  is  about  500  yards 
wide  and  has  a  current  of  about  3  miles  an  hour.  The  upper  river  is 
straighter  and  is  for  the  most  part  confined  to  one  channel,  with 
occasional  islands.  Allen  reports  that  in  the  portions  of  the  river 
visted  by  him  the  bottom  is  hard,  that  there  are  no  quicksands,  and 
that  the  current  is  not  over  4  miles  an  hour. 

'Report  of  an  expedition  to  the  Copper,  Tanana,  and  Koyukuk  rivers  in  the  Territory  of  Alaska, 
by  Lieut.  Henry  T.  Allen,  U.  S.  A.;  Senate  Documents,  1887. 


88  MAI'S    AND    WKSCRIPTIONS    OV    ALASKA. 

Above  the  sixty-seventh  (lejjree  of  latitude  no  ynrveys  liave  been 
made  of  tlic  K(»yiiknk.  The  sketcli  of  this  portion  of  the  river  shown 
ou  tlie  aeconipanyin<:;  map  of  Ahiska  (No.  1)  was  made  from  the  reports 
of  prospectors,  and  while  the  general  features  are  correct,  it  c^n  not 
be  ('omj>ared  in  aceuniey  to  the  results  of  even  the  roughest  surveys 
which  liave  been  made  elsewhere  in  the  Territory.  We  know  that  the 
Upper  Koyukuk  drains  a  large  basin  and  that  in  itvS  upper  course  it  is 
divided  into  several  streams  of  nearly  equal  size. 

Tanana  River. — The  Tanana  River  has  its  source  near  the  head 
waters  of  the  White  and  also  of  the  Copper  River,  and  is  one  of  the 
most  important  tributaries  of  the  Yukon.  Tt  ha.s  a  general  northwest- 
erly course  and  joins  the  Yukon  some  800  miles  above  its  mouth.  As 
a  special  report  in  this  publication  (p.  64)  is  devoted  to  this  and  the 
White  River,  the  reader  is  referred  to  that  for  a  more  detailed  account. 

Porcupine  River. — The  Porcupine,  one  of  the  largest  tributaries  of 
the  Yukon,  joins  it  near  the  Arctic  Circle,  in  the  Yukon  Flats.  It 
has  long  been  known  to  the  British  fur  traders,  who  used  it  as  a  high- 
way to  Fort  Yukon,  at  its  mouth,  which  was  established  in  1847.  In 
1888  Mr.  R.  J.  McConnell,  of  the  Canadian  Geological  Survey,  crossed 
from  the  Mackenzie  waters  to  the  Porcupine  by  way  of  the  Peel  River 
portage.*  ]McConnell  followed  the  river  down  to  its  mouth,  but  did 
not  carry  his  surveys  much  beyond  the  international  boundary.  In  the 
same  year  Mr.  William  Ogilvie,  Dominion  Land  Surveyor,  crossed 
from  the  Yukon  to  the  head  waters  of  the  Porcupine,  and  again  from 
the  Porcupine  to  the  Mackenzie,  by  the  McDougall  Pass.*  In  1889  a 
United  States  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey  party,  in  charge  of  Mr.  J. 
H.  Turner,  ascended  the  Porcupine  about  50  miles  by  steamer,  and 
continued  in  small  boats  to  the  one  hundred  and  forty-first  meridian, 
where  they  wintered,  for  the  purpose  of  establishing  the  international 
boundary  by  astronomic  observations."  In  March,  1890,  a  small 
party  led  by  Mr.  Turner  crossed  to  the  Arctic  coast,  with  dog  teams, 
along  the  international  boundary  line. 

The  Porcupine  heads  in  about  latitude  65°  30',  within  75  miles 
of  the  Yukon;  it  flows  northeast  to  the  Rocky  Mountain  chain,  and 
then  bends  sharply  southwest,  making  a  total  length  of  about  500 
miles  to  its  junction  with  the  Yukon.  It  has  its  source  in,  and  for  the 
first  huudre<l  miles  of  its  course  flows  through,  the  Mammoth  Moun- 
tains, which  rise  from  2,000  to  3,000  feet  above  the  river  level;  below 
the  mountains  it  enters  a  rolling  upland  region,  which  is  here  and 
there  interrupted  by  mountains,  such  as  the  Old  Crow  Range.  The 
Porcupine  is  a  clear- water  stream,  with  comparatively  slow  current; 

*  Report  of  the  exploration  in  the  Yukon  and  Mackenzie  basins,  N.  W.  T. :  Ann.  Rept.  Geol.  Nat. 
Hist.  Survey  Canada,  Vol.  IV,  1888-89,  Part  D. 

'  Exploratorj-  Survey  of  part  of  the  I.ewes,  Tatonduc,  Bell,  Trout,  Peel,  and  Mackenzie  rivers; 
Report  to  Minister  of  Interior,  Ottawa,  1890. 

'  U.  S.  Coa.st  and  Geod.  Survey  Rept.,  Part  I,  1891,  p.  87. 


THE    YUKON    DISTRICT.  89 

in  the  Eamparts  the  current  is  from  3  to  5  miles  an  hour,  but  else- 
where on  the  river,  as  far  up  as  the  Mackenzie  portage,  it  seldom 
exceeds  2  miles. 

White  River. — The  head  waters  of  the  White  Eiver  lie  near  those  of 
the  Tanana  and  Copper  rivers.  It  is  about  200  miles  long.  Rising  in 
Alaskan  Territory,  it  crosses  the  international  boundary  and  empties 
into  the  Yukon  about  100  miles  above  Dawson.  A  special  report  on 
the  White  and  Tanana  rivers,  in  this  publication  (p.  64),  contains 
more  detailed  information. 

Felly  and  Lewes  rivers. — The  junction  of  these  two  rivers  in  about 
latitude  63°  45'  forms  the  Yukon.  The  Pelly  River  has  its  source 
opposite  the  head  waters  of  the  Stikine  and  Liard  rivers,  and  has  a 
northwest  trend;  the  Lewes  rises  in  the  Coast  Range,  and  has  a  north- 
erly course.  The  chief  tributary  of  the  Lewes  —  the  Teslin  (Hoota- 
linqua) — has  its  source  in  Lake  Teslin  (Aklen).  The  valleys  of  both 
the  Pelly  and  the  Lewes  are  cut  into  the  upland  plateau  region,  while 
their  drainage  basins  contain  a  number  of  peaks  and  mountain  ranges 
rising  above  this  plateau.  Their  entire  drainage  basins  are  within 
Canadian  territory. 

GEOLOGY. 

ROCK  FORMATIONS. 

Within  the  Yukon  district  are  found  formations  varying  in  age  from 
what  are  probably  Archean  to  the  unconsolidated  Pleistocene  beds  of 
the  Yukon  silts,  while  igneous  rocks  occur  in  great  abundance  and 
variety.  Just  as  the  most  striking  feature  of  the  topography  is  the 
great  southwesterly  bend  which  the  mountain  ranges  take  in  central 
Alaska,  so  the  rocks  have  a  corresponding  change  in  the  direction  of 
their  strike;  south  of  the  great  bend  of  the  Yukon  the  prevailing 
strike  is  NW.-SE.,  while  on  the  Lower  Yukon  it  is  NE.-SW. 

In  the  southeastern  part  of  the  basin,  which  will  be  considered  first, 
while  the  NW.-SE.  structure  dominates,  it  is  not  the  only  line  of 
deformation,  since  in  the  Birch  Creek  and  Portymile  districts  a  sys- 
tem of  cross  folding  exists  which  is  nearly  at  right  angles  to  the  general 
strike. 

In  crossing  by  way  of  the  Chilkoot  or  White  Pass  from  Lynn 
Canal,  the  broad  belt  of  granite  which  forms  the  Coast  Range  is 
traversed.  This  granite  mass  is  flanked  on  the  eastward  side  by  the 
slates  and  schists  which  overlie  it.  While  typically  massive,  the 
granite  is  locally  altered  into  a  mica-schist,  is  cut  by  basic  dikes,  and 
volcanic  rocks  are  found  associated  with  it.  Succeeding  the  granite, 
inland,  is  a  series  of  more  or  less  altered  Paleozoic  rocks  whose  general 
succession  is  probably  as  follows:  The  oldest  beds  are  a  series  of  quartz- 
ites  and  quartz-schists  overlain  by  white  crystalline  limestone,  and  in 


90  MAPS    AND    DESCRIl'l'IONS    OF    ALASKA. 

their  turn  succeeded  hy  black  slates  and  wiugloraerates  with  which 
considerable  lulVaceons  material  is  ;i.sH()(;iated.  This  entire  series  is 
closely  folded  and  includes  intrusive  rocks;  it  probably  continues 
northward  alonj;  the  Lewes  to  about  the  mouth  of  the  Rig  Salmon 
River.  Along  Lake  Lebarge  there  are  several  areas  of  Oetaceous 
rocks,  and  below  the  liig  Salmon  is  another  such  area,  while  near  Fort 
Selkirk  occurs  a  mass  of  granite  which,  t-ogether  with  the  associated 
metaniorphi(!  schists,  probaldy  belongs  to  a  pre-Paleozoic  series. 

Li  the  gold  districts  of  the  Middle  Yukon  a  basal  granite  is  suc- 
ceeded by  the  Birch  Creek  series,  made  up  chiefly  of  quartz-schists 
and  quartzites;  and  these  pass  above  into  a  white  crystalline  limestone 
forniation,  named  the  Fortymile  series.  The  liampart  rocks,  char- 
acterized by  a  greenish  color  and  a  preponderance  of  volcanic  material, 
overlie  these  uuconformably  and  are  probal)ly  Lower  Paleozoic  in  age. 
The  two  older  formations  are  more  altered  than  the  younger,  but  all 
three  have  suffered  considerable  deformation,  and  igneous  intrusions 
are  abundant.  All  contain  mineralized  quartz  veins  and  shear  zones. 
Spurr  also  describes  some  younger  Paleozoic  rocks,  as  well  as  Creta- 
ceous and  Tertiary  beds,  in  the  region  studied  by  him. 

From  the  foregoing  descriptions  of  the  Fortymile  and  Birch  Creek 
district  and  the  account  of  the  geology  of  the  Tanana  region  which 
will  be  found  in  the  special  report,  the  following  facts  are  made  clear: 
A  basal  gneissoid  and  granitic  series  which  is  found  along  the  Tanana 
River,  lying  chiefly  to  the  east  of  it  and  crossing  the  Lower  White,  is 
probably  coextensive  with  the  granite  masses  found  at  Fort  Selkirk  and 
on  the  Pelly.  To  the  north  this  basal  complex  is  succeeded  by  the 
Birch  Creek,  the  Fortymile,  and  the  l^mpart  series,  together  with 
the  younger  formations.  On  the  south  the  granite  is  overlain  by  the 
Tanana  schists,  probably  of  the  same  age  as  one  of  the  series  described 
by  Spurr.  Along  the  Upper  White  River  these  Tanana  schists  are 
succeeded  by  the  Upper  Paleozoic  beds  called  the  Wellesley  forma- 
tion. 

The  region  between  the  Yukon  and  the  Rocky  Mountains  has  not 
been  investigated,  but  McConnell  has  shown  that  where  the  Liard 
cuts  the  range  and  where  he  traversed  it  in  crossing  from  the  Mac- 
kenzie to  the  Porcupine,  it  is  made  up  of  closely  folded  Paleozoic  and 
Mesozoic  rocks.  The  basins  of  Tertiary  rocks  have  already  been 
referred  to  in  this  part  of  the  district.  Compared  with  the  older  rocks 
their  deformation  has  been  very  slight. 

North  of  the  Yukon  gold-bearing  rocks  have  been  reported  from  the 
Upper  Koyukuk,  and  the  range  of  mountains  bounding  the  basin  on 
the  north  is  believed  to  be  the  extension  of  the  Rockies.  On  the 
Lower  Yukon  are  found  Cretaceous  and  Tertiary  rocks  having  a  NE.- 
SW.  strike.  The  most  important  of  the  formations  is  the  Kenai 
series, because  of  the  coal  beds  which  it  carries. 


K 

THE    YUKON    DISTRICT.  91 

GliACIATION. 

The  northern  limit  of  glaciation,  as  determined  by  the  investiga- 
tions of  Dawson,  Russell,  and  Hayes,  crosses  the  Pelly  near  the  mouth 
of  the  McMillan  River,  the  Lewes  near  the  Big  Salmon  River,  and  the 
White  near  the  mouth  of  the  Doujek  River.  The  Tanana  River 
as  far  as  explored  by  me  was  found  to  be  beyond  the  line  of  general 
gla<;iatiou.  North  of  this  limit  local  glaciation  has  occurred  on  some 
of  the  higher  mountains.  After  the  retreat  of  the  ice  the  region 
stood  at  a  much  lower  level,  and  the  silts  and  gravels  were  deposited 
probably  in  part  in  fresh- water  lakes  and  in  part  as  littoral  marine 
sediments  in  estuaries.^  The  subsequent  elevation  and  dissection  of 
these  deposits  produced  the  terraces  and  blufl's  which  are  such  strik- 
ing features  of  the  topography  along  most  of  the  rivers. 

RECENT   VOLCANIC   ACTIVITY. 

Doctors  Dawson  and  Hayes  have  described  the  white  volcanic  ash 
which  forms  the  surface  bed  over  large  areas  in  the  region  of  the 
White  River,  the  lower  courses  of  the  Pelly  and  Lewes,  and  the 
Upper  Tanana.  At  several  localities  recent  effusions  of  a  basic  vol- 
canic rock  have  taken  place.  Such  a  one  is  found  at  Miles  Canyon 
and  White  Horse  Rapids,  where  the  river  has  cut  a  narrow  canyon 
through  a  lava  flow  which  at  a  time  not  far  remote  obstructed  the 
valley. 

MINERAL   RESOURCES. 
GOLD. 

Several  of  the  formations  which  are  more  or  less  widely  distributed 
in  the  Yukon  Basin  contain  disseminated  gold,  which  has  two  distinct 
modes  of  occurrence;  one  is  in  quartz  veins  and  the  other  along  what 
are  called  shear  zones.  The  material  of  the  mineralized  quartz  veins 
has  come  from  below,  and  the  following  minerals  are  likely  to  occur 
in  it:  free  gold,  pyrite,  galena,  and  sometimes  hematite.  The  shear 
zones  are  belts  along  which  the  rock  has  been  crushed  and  squeezed; 
into  these  the  mineralizing  solutions  have  penetrated  and  deposited 
gold,  iron  and  copper  pyrite,  galena,  and  various  other  minerals, 
usually  accompanied  by  quartz  and  calcite.  By  the  disintegration  of 
such  mineralized  rocks  the  gold  becomes  loose  or  placer  gold,  which 
may  be  found  in  place  or  may  have  been  transported  and  then  laid 
down  again  in  sand  and  gravel.  If  such  a  deposit  of  sand  and  gravel 
occurs  in  a  region  in  which  an  uplift  takes  place,  the  streams  will 
finally  cut  a  new  channel  through  it  and  in  time  the  remnants  of  the 
bed  will  appear  on  the  side  of  the  valley  as  terraces  or  benches.  These 

'  See  reports  of  Dawson,  Russell,  Hayes,  and  Spurr  (p.  85  of  this  report,  footnote). 


92  MAPS    AND    DKSCKIin'IONS    OF    ALASKA. 

old  terraces,  which  are  now  much  worked  in  some  portions  of  the 
Yukon  district,  are  the  so-c4illed  bench  claims. 

In  clasyifvinfj:  j^old  deposits  we  have  the  two  general  heads  of  vein 
depositvS  and  placer  deposits.  The  latter  may  be  subdivided  into  jijulch 
dis:j;in<;s,  ])ar  di<i:}>;in<j;s,  and  bench  dissi"^''^-  The  iirst  includes  the 
tjold  found  along  creek  and  small  stream  beds,  and  the  bar  diggings 
are  those  in  the  river  bars,  while  the  bench  diggings  have  already 
been  described.  The  first  discoveries  of  gold  on  the  Yukon  were  made 
in  the  bar  diggings;  then  the  gulch  diggings  came  into  prominence; 
while  the  benches,  except  perhaps  the  very  lowest,  have  been  only 
recently  investigated.  As  yet  there  are  no  working  vein  mines  in  the 
district,  but  many  claims  have  been  staked,  and  it  is  probable  that 
mining  machinery  will  be  taken  in  this  spring. 

The  geologic  descriptions  embraced  in  the  following  notes  on  gold 
deposits  lying  on  or  near  the  Yukon  Eiver  were  obtained  largely  from 
Spurr's  report  in  the  Eighteenth  Annual  Report  of  the  Survey,  Part 
III,  to  which  the  reader  is  referred  for  more  detailed  information. 

Gold  Mountain. — In  ascending  the  Yukon  from  its  mouth  this  point 
is  the  first  where  gold  is  known  to  have  been  found.  It  is  situated  on 
the  right  bank  about  35  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Tanana.  It  is 
a  quartz  vein  containing  some  gold,  along  which  a  drift  was  run 
several  years  ago. 

Mynook  difilrict. — Under  this  heading  are  grouped  a  series  of  creeks 
entering  the  Yukon  within  the  Rampart  Mountains,  the  most  impor- 
tant of  which  is  Little  Mynook  Creek;  other  creeks  of  the  district  are 
known  as  Big  Mynook,  Mike  Hess,  and  Russian.  The  center  of  dis- 
tribution is  Rampart  City,  located  on  the  Yukon  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Big  Mynook.  The  richest  claims  that  have  been  found  in  the  district 
are  numbers  6,  7,  8,  and  9  "above  discovery"  on  the  Little  Mynook. 
The  gold  from  these  claims  is  coarse  and  very  pure.  The  Mynook 
drainage  basin  is  said  to  have  been  more  or  less  prospected  to  its 
.head  waters,  and  some  claims  have  been  located  on  the  Tanana  side  of 
the  divide.  Bench  claims  were  beginning  to  draw  attention  last 
season,  and  a  rich  bar  digging,  called  Idaho  Bar,  was  reported. 

Birch  Creek  district. — This  embraces  the  drainage  basin  of  Birch 
Creek,  which  enters  the  Yukon  from  the  east  about  100  miles  below 
the  big  bend.  For  100  miles  or  more  from  its  mouth  Birch  Creek 
meanders  through  the  Yukon  Flats,  and  the  gold  diggings  are  found 
above  the  flats.  The  distributing  jwint  for  the  district  is  Circle  City, 
which  is  connected  with  Birch  Creek  by  an  8-mile  trail.  The  entire 
drainage  basin  is  underlain  by  the  Birch  Creek  schists.  Two  systems 
of  dikes  (igneous  rocks)  cut  through  the  schists;  one  is  made  up  of 
massive  granitic  rocks — i.  e.,  granites  that  have  not  been  squeezed  — 
and  the  other  embraces  granitic  and  dioritic  rocks  in  which  schistosity 
has  been  developed.     The  thickness  of  gravel  above  the  pay  streak 


TIIK    YUKON    DKSTUICT,  93 

varies  considerably,  ru lining  Ironi  3  to  12  feet  aud  over  on  the  differ- 
ent creeks  of  the  district.  Among  the  important  creeks  of  the  Birch 
Creek  drainage  basin  are  Mastodon,  Miller,  and  Dead  wood. 

SeventymUe  district. — The  Seven tymile  River  enters  the  Yukon  from 
the  south  about  70  miles  below  the  international  boundary.  Gold 
discoveries  were  reported  in  its  drainage  basin  last  summer.  The 
diggings  may  be  reached  by  ascending  the  river  from  its  mouth,  where 
there  are  two  settlements,  named  respecti\'ely  Star  City  and  Seventy- 
mile,  or  by  trail  from  Eagle  City.  Some  account  of  this  river  will  be 
found  in  Barnard's  report  in  this  publication  (p.  76).  Four  or  five 
miles  below  Seventj^mile  on  the  Yukon  are  a  number  of  small  creeks 
flowing  from  the  south .  Among  these  are  Trout,  Fourth  of  July,  and 
Dewey,  on  which  gold  is  said  to  have  been  found.  Small  settlements 
have  sprung  up  at  the  mouths  of  many  of  these  creeks. 

Mission  Greek  district. — Mission  Creek  joins  the  Yukon  from  the 
south  about  8  miles  below  the  international  boundary,  and  is  easily 
accessible  from  Eagle  City,  which  is  located  at  its  mouth.  According 
to  Spurr,  the  gold  of  this  creek  as  well  as  of  its  chief  tributary, 
American  Creek,  is  derived  from  the  Eampart  schists.  Barnard's 
report  will  be  found  to  contain  further  details. 

Fortymile  district. — This  is  the  oldest,  and  up  to  the  time  of  the  dis- 
covery of  the  Klondike  the  most  important,  district  in  the  region. 
Fortymile  Eiver  enters  the  Yukon  some  50  miles  above  the  inter- 
national boundary,  and  the  mouth  and  lower  part  of  the  river  are 
therefore  in  Canadian  territory.  The  gold-bearing  portion  of  the  dis- 
trict is  chiefly  on  the  Alaskan  side  of  the  line.  The  district  may  be 
reached  by  ascending  the  river  from  Fortymile  Post  at  its  mouth,  or 
by  an  all- American  route  by  trail  from  Eagle  City.  Spurr  has  shown 
that  in  this  district  an  old  granite  mass  is  fl^anked  on  either  side  by 
by  the  younger  gold-bearing  Birch  Creek  series,  which  are  succeeded 
hy  the  Fortymile  series,  also  gold-bearing.  For  further  details  the 
reader  is  referred  to  Spurr's  ^  and  Barnard's  reports. 

Sixtymile  district. — This  district  is  included  in  the  drainage  basin  of 
Sixtymile  Eiver,  which  heads  in  Alaskan  territory  and  after  crossing 
the  international  boundary  enters  the  Yukon  about  50  miles  above 
Dawson.  As  the  swift  current  of  the  river  makes  it  difficult  of 
ascent,  !the  head  waters  are  usually  reached  by  trail  from  Fortymile. 
Geologically  considered,  as  far  as  this  district  has  been  studied,  it  is 
a  portion  of  the  Fortymile  region. 

KoyuJcuk  district. — The  Koyukuk  Eiver  has  already  been  described 
afi  one  of  the  chief  tributaries  of  the  Yukon.  Gold  has  been  reported 
from  various  points  on  the  river,  but  the  important  deposits  seem 
to  be  above   Peavy,    which  can  be   reached  by  steamer  from   the 

» Eighteenth  Ann.  Rapt.,  Part  HI,  1898,  p.  317  et  seq. 


94  MAI'S    AND    DESCRIPTIONS    OF    ALASKA. 

mouth,  though  the  navigation  of  the  last  hundred  miles  is  said  to  be 
diflicult  on  ac<-<)niit  of  saiKl-bai-s.  Above  Pejivy  different  forks  of 
the  river  are  navigable  for  some  distance  farther  by  very  light-draft 
steam  el's. 

There  are  three  portage  routes  to  the  Koyukuk  from  the  Yukon.  The 
fiiTst  is  made  by  ascending  the  Tozikakat  and  making  a  day's  portage 
to  the  Konootena  River,  a  branch  of  the  Koyukuk;  the  second  is  from 
the  Dall  River  to  the  Jim  River,  a  branch  of  the  south  fork  of  the 
Koyukuk;  the  third  is  by  way  of  the  Gens  de  Large  River  to  the 
south  fork  of  the  Koyukuk.  Indian  portages  are  said  to  exist  from 
some  of  the  northern  tributaries  of  the  Koyukuk  to  the  Kowak. 

The  gold  on  the  Koyukuk  is  said  to  be  derived  from  a  conglomerate. 
Tramway  Bar  is  the  best-known  digging,  but  there  are  many  other 
localities  from  which  workable  gold  is  reported.  The  North  American 
Trading  and  Transportation  Company  has  a  post  at  Pea\^,  and  the 
Alaska  Commercial  Company  has  one  at  the  mouth  of  the  Allenkakat 
River. 

Porcnpine  River. — Vague  rumors  have  been  spread  about  the  finding 
of  profitable  gold  deposits  on  this  river.  From  what  is  known  of  the 
geology,  however,  they  would  seem  to  be  entirely  without  foundation. 

Klondike  district. — The  name  ''  Klondike"  is  probably  better  known 
throughout  the  world  than  any  other  geographic  name  on  the  conti- 
nent. To  those  not  familiar  with  the  region  the  name  is  generally 
used  as  a  synonym  for  any  part  of  the  gold-bearing  regions  of  western 
Canada  and  Alaska,  while  in  fact  it  is  the  name  of  a  comparatively 
insignificant  river  in  British  Northwest  Territory. 

The  Klondike  gold  district,  strictly  defined,  embraces  a  portion  of 
the  drainage  basins  of  the  Klondike  and  Indian  rivers,  which  enter 
the  Yukon  fi'om  the  east  near  the  sixty- fourth  degree  of  latitude ;  the 
district  thus  probably  includes  an  area  of  about  350  square  miles. 
The  Klondike  is  a  shallow  stream,  flowing  in  a  rather  broad  valley, 
and  has  a  width  of  a  hundred  yards  at  its  mouth.  There  have  been 
no  surveys  made  of  the  entire  river,  but  it  is  estimated  to  be  about 
120  miles  long.  For  the  first  30  miles  of  its  course  it  is  bounded  on 
either  side  by  hills  of  rounded  outline  and  comparatively  moderate 
relief;  beyond  this  the  river  forks  in  a  lowland,  and  the  two  most 
northerly  forks  rise  in  the  foothills  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Terraces 
or  benches  are  found  on  the  Klondike  and  on  its  tributaries.  Indian 
River  is  of  smaller  size,  but  has  a  similar  character;  and  between 
these  two  rivers  lies  a  mountain  mass  usually  called  The  Dome.  The 
Canadian  geologists  have  not  yet  published  the  results  of  their  investi- 
gations, but  it  is  known  that  the  bed  rocks  of  the  region  are  of 
schistose  character,  and  they  are  probably  of  the  same  age  as  those 
farther  west  in  Alaska,  already  described. 

The  important  gold -producing  creeks  of  the  region,  as  far  as  now 


TUE    YUKON    DISTRICT.  95 

kiiONvu,  have  their  sources  in  The  Dome.  Those  tributary  to  the 
Klondike  flow  iu  a  northwestet"ly  direction,  while  the  tributaries  of 
Indian  Eiver  flow  southwest.  It  is  stated  that  the  pay  streak  lies  on 
or  near  bed  rock,  and  that  the  overlying  deposit  of  gravel  and  fine 
material  sometimes  has  a  thickness  of  40  feet.  Bench  as  well  as  gulch 
claims  are  worked  in  this  district. 

The  distributing  point  for  this  district  is  Dawson,  whence  the  gold 
diggings  can  be  reached  by  trail. 

Other  gold  districts  of  British  Northwest  Territory. — For  reports  on 
these  regions  the  reader  is  referred  to  the  publications  of  the  Geological 
Survey  of  Canada,  already  cited.  Gold  has  been  reported  as  occur- 
ring in  paying  quantities  at  various  localities  on  the  Pelly  and  Lewes 
rivers  and  their  tributaries. 

Atlin  Lake  district. — This  district  lies  entirely  within  British 
Columbia,  near  the  lake  from  which  it  derives  its  name.  Attention 
was  first  drawn  to  the  region  by  rumors  of  valuable  gold  finds  last 
August,  and  a  rush  took  place  in  the  late  summer.  The  discovery 
was  made  on  Pine  Creek,  which  flows  into  Lake  Atlin  from  the  east. 
Of  the  geology  we  know  only  that  the  bed  rock  is  a  slate  or  schist 
and  that  it  is  possibly  the  equivalent  of  the  Paleozoic  slates  on  the 
upper  end  of  Marsh  Lake,  which  are  known  to  be  more  or  less  miner- 
alized. Eeports  from  this  district  have  all  been  favorable.  The  local 
distributing  point  is  Atlin  City,  situated  on  the  lake.  Steamboats 
from  Lake  Bennett  run  to  a  branch  of  Taku  Arm,  from  which  a 
portage  of  about  5  miles  is  made  to  Atlin  Lake ;  or  an  overland  trail 
about  30  miles  in  length  leads  from  the  end  of  the  White  Pass  Rail- 
road to  Taku  Arm. 

Dalton  trail  region. — This  lies  between  the  Lewes  and  White  rivers 
and  north  of  the  St.  Elias  Range.  At  present  we  know  only  that  the 
region  is  drained  by  the  Lewes,  the  White,  and  the  Alsek  rivers,  and 
that  it  is  generally  a  rolling  country  with  some  high  mountains. 
There  have  been  some  gold  discoveries  in  this  region,  and  it  is  easily 
accessible  with  pack  train  from  Chilkat  Inlet. 

COAL. 

Coal  has  been  found  on  the  Lower  Yukon,  on  several  creeks  empty- 
ing into  the  Yukon  near  the  international  boundary,  and  has  been 
reported  from  the  Koyukuk.  There  are  rumors  of  valuable  coal 
deposits  on  the  Tanana,  which  the  observations  of  our  party  last 
summer  failed  to  verify.  All  coals  discovered  are  lignites  of  Tertiary 
and  Cretaceous  age.  Several  specimens  from  exposures  on  or  near 
the  Yukon  River  have  proved  on  analysis  to  be  of  low  grade. 

TIMBER. 

The  timber  of  the  Yukon  Basin,  while  of  the  utmost  importance  to 
the  district,  has  no  value  for  exportation.     The  best  is  found  toward 

7-Alaska. 


96  MAPS    AND    DESCRIPTIONS    OF   ALASKA. 

the  heud  waters  of  the  Yukon,  and  northward  the  trees  decrease  in 
size  and  abundance.  O^jjilvie  reports  that  in  the  Fortymile  district 
trees  18  inches  in  diameter  are  very  scarce.  Accordin*^  to  Dawson 
the  black  pine  is  not  found  north  of  Fort  Selkirk.  The  spruce  is  the 
most  common  tree,  and  so  far  as  known  is  found  throughout  the  basin. 
Besides  the  spruce  the  important  trees  are  a  variety  of  fir,  the  aspen, 
the  Cottonwood,  and  the  white  birch,  as  well  as  the  black  alder  and 
several  varieties  of  willow.  Along  the  main  routes  of  travel,  but 
especially  neur  the  larger  mining  camps,  the  best  timber  has  already 
been  cut,  and  frequently  building  material  has  to  be  sought  at  some 
distance.  Much  timber  is  annually  destroyed  by  forest  fires.  The 
timber  line  in  the  vicinity  of  the  White  River  is  about  3,400  feet,  and 
in  general  it  may  be  said  that  it  decreases  in  altitude  to  the  north. 
The  delta  and  adjacent  tundra  regions  of  the  Lower  Yukon  are  tree- 
less. 

GAME. 

The  large  game  has  been  for  the  most  part  driven  away  from  the 
vicinity  of  the  mining  camps  and  the  more  frequented  routes  of  travel, 
while  wild  fowl  are  still  abundant.  In  various  parts  of  the  district 
moose,  barren-ground  and  woodland  caribou,  several  varieties  of  bear, 
together  with  mountain  goats  and  sheep,  are  found ;  but  the  fur  trade 
has  nearly  ceased.  One  of  the  chief  sources  of  food  supply  of  the 
natives  is  the  salmon,  which  ascend  most  of  the  tributaries  of  the 
Y'ukon  for  long  distances.  It  seems  to  be  definitely  established  that 
8ome  of  the  hardier  grains,  potatoes,  and  certain  vegetables  can  be 
brought  to  maturity  as  far  north  as  Fort  Yukon,  l^early  all  of  the 
large  rivers  of  the  region  have  bottom  lands,  and  often  terraces,  which 
would  be  suitable  for  agricultural  purposes,  and  on  the  Lower  Yukon 
every  mission  has  its  vegetable  garden. 

CLIMATE. 

Elsewhere  in  this  report  (p.  133)  will  be  found  a  compilation  of  the 
weather  records  of  Alaska.  In  general  it  can  be  said  that  the  interior 
of  Alaska  is  a  semi-arid  region.  The  summers  are  short  and  hot  (90° 
in  the  shade  haWng  been  recorded  at  Dawson),  while  the  winters  are 
long  and  very  cold.  The  snowfall,  compared  with  that  on  the  coast, 
is  very  light.  Much  traveling  is  done  in  the  winter,  even  when  the 
thermometer  registers  30°  or  40°  below  zero.  The  hauling  of  supplies 
and  the  making  of  long  trips  are  much  easier  in  winter,  when  dog 
teams  can  be  used,  than  in  summer. 

ROUTES  AND  MEANS  OF  TRANSPORTATION. 

The  unprecedented  rush  into  the  Yukon  district  during  the  last  two 
years  has  led  to  very  rapid  development  of  transportation  facilities. 
While  two  years  ago  the  prospector  in  this  region  had  to  carry  hia 


THE    YUKON    DISTRICT.  97 

pack  across  the  passes  or  employ  unreliable  Indians  at  high  prices, 
to-day  the  same  route  is  traversed  by  railways  and  tramways.  At 
that  time  the  traveler  was  forced  to  transport  his  lumber  across  the 
pjiss  or  whipsaw  it  out  himself  for  building  his  boat  to  go  down  the 
Lewes;  to-day  steamers  ply  regularly  between  Dawson  and  the  upper 
lakes.  There  are  now  two  routes  which  are  in  general  use  for  reach- 
ing the  Yukon  Basin;  one  is  over  the  passes  in  the  Coast  Eange  to 
the  Lewes  Eiver  and  down  that  river  to  the  Alaskan  and  Klondike 
districts,  and  the  other  is  by  way  of  ocean  steamer  to  St.  Michael  and 
thence  up  the  Yukon  by  river  steamer.  The  former  route  is  much 
the  quicker, 

CHILKOOT   AND   "WHITE   PASS   ROUTES. 

Skagway  or  Dyea,  on  Lynn  Canal,  can  now  be  reached  in  four  or 
five  days  from  Seattle  by  well- equipped  steamers.  Skagway,  the 
terminus  of  the  White  Pass  Railroad,  is  an  enterprising  city  which  is 
rapidly  growing.  From  Dyea  the  trail  starts  over  the  Chilkoot  Pass,^ 
across  which  tramways  are  now  in  use.  The  distance  from  Skagway 
to  Bennett,  at  the  head  of  Lake  Bennett,  to  which  the  railroad  will 
probably  be  extended  in  the  early  summer,  is  about  40  miles ;  from 
Dyea  to  the  same  point  the  distance  is  about  28  miles. 

During  the  open  season  steamers  ply  regularly  between  Bennett  and 
the  head  of  Miles  Canyon.  Tramways  have  been  built  around  Miles 
Canyon  and  White  Horse  Rapids,  and  connect  below  the  rapids  with 
the  steamers  which  run  through  to  Dawson. 

Those  making  the  trip  down  the  Lewes  in  rowboats  or  canoes  will 
not  find  Miles  Canyon  or  White  Horse  Rapids  serious  obstacles.  By 
means  of  the  tramway  both  freight  and  boats  can  easily  be  taken 
around  the  canyon  and  rapids,  or  the  canyon  can  be  run  by  boat. 
The  White  Horse  Rapids  were  run  by  hundreds  if  not  thousands  of 
boats  last  season,  and  there  have  probably  not  been  more  than  half 
a  dozen  accidents  which  resulted  in  the  loss  of  life.  These  rapids, 
however,  should  never  be  attempted  unless  the  boat  is  steered  by  one 
of  the  local  pilots.  Below  the  White  Horse  Rapids  the  only  obstacle 
to  navigation  is  the  so-called  Five  Finger  Rapids;  but  here  any 
experienced  man  can  take  a  good  rowboat  or  canoe  through,  keeping 
the  right-hand  channel.  The  steamers  running  to  Dawson  both 
descend  and  ascend  these  rapids.  This  route  is  usually  open  for 
navigation  from  about  the  1st  of  June  to  the  1st  of  October. 

ST.    MICHAEL,   ROUTE. 

The  route  up  the  Yukon  from  St.  Michael  has  long  been  in  use, 
more  especially  for  the  transportation  of  freight.     The  trip  to  Dawson 


'  According  to  the  Canadian  authorities  the  Chilkoot  Pass  has  an  elevation  of  8,(iOO  feet  and  the 
White  Pass  an  elevation  of  2,600  feet. 


98  MAPS    AND    DESCRIPTIONS    OF    ALASKA. 

usually  takes  a  month,  but  the  return  trip  is  often  made  in  a  week. 
The  Yukon  is  usually  open  for  steamers  from  the  1st  of  July  to  the 
middle  of  September. 

Iteference  has  been  made  elsewhere  to  the  navigability  of  different 
tributaries  of  the  Yukon.  The  Koyukuk  is  navigable  for  stejimers  as 
far  as  Peavy ;  the  Tauaua  under  certain  limiting  conditions  can  be 
navigated  for  probably  400  to  500  miles;  steamers  can  ascend  the 
Porcupine  probably  100  miles,  and  can  go  up  the  Pelly  about  the 
same  distance ;  while  the  White  River,  on  account  of  its  very  rapid 
current,  is  totally  unnavigable. 

DALTON  TRAIL. 

A  pack-horse  route  from  Haines  Mission,  on  Lynn  Canal,  into  the 
interior  wavS  established  several  years  ago  by  Mr.  Jack  Dalton  and 
has  been  much  used  for  stock.  Its  season  is  practically  limited  to 
the  time  of  good  grass,  from  about  the  middle  of  May  to  the  middle 
of  September.  The  developments  of  the  last  two  years  make  it 
evident  that  pack  horses  can  be  used  to  advantage  in  other  parts  of 
Alaska.  The  Dalton  trail  extends  from  Chilkat  Inlet  to  Fort  Selkirk, 
and  a  branch  goes  to  Five  Finger  Eapids.  From  Fort  Selkirk  cattle 
and  supplies  are  usually  sent  down  by  river,  though  an  overland  trail 
to  Dawson  is  sometimes  used. 

TAKU,    STIKIXE,    EDMONTON,   AND   COPPKR   RIVER   ROUTES. 

Besides  the  routes  mentioned  above,  there  are  various  others  which 
have  been  more  or  less  used  for  reaching  the  interior  of  Alaska.  One 
of  these  starts  at  Juneau  on  the  coast,  goes  up  Taku  Inlet,  and  crosses 
by  an  80 -mile  portage  to  Lake  Teslin.  A  modification  of  this  route 
has  recently  been  suggested  for  reaching  the  new  Atlin  gold  district. 
The  Stikine  River  route  has  long  been  used  for  reaching  some  of  the 
British  Columbia  gold  fields.  During  the  recent  gold  excitement  it 
was  used  by  parties  bound  for  the  Klondike,  who  ascended  the 
Stikine  on  the  ice  or  by  steamer  to  the  mouth  of  Telegraph  Creek, 
and  thence  crossed  to  Lake  Teslin  and  went  down  the  Teslin  River. 
The  so-called  all-Canadian  route  from  Edmonton  has  not  proved  a  suc- 
cess. The  routes  from  Copper  River  and  from  Cook  Inlet  are  described 
elsewhere  in  this  publication  (pp.  26,  37,  43,  61,  105,  112,  122). 

WINTER  TRAVEL 

The  winter  trip  into  the  interior  can  now  be  made  by  dog  teams 
without  very  grave  danger  or  great  hardship.  The  wise  policy  of  the 
Canadian  Government  in  establishing  police  stations  at  intervals  of  30 
or  40  miles  between  Dawson  and  the  coast  assures  the  traveler  of 
finding  food  and  shelter  at  no  very  great  intervals. 


THE    YUKON    DISTRICT.  99 


POPULATION. 


The  population  of  the  Yukon  Basin  has  not  been  enumerated  since 
the  taking  of  the  Eleventh  Census,  which  gives  a  total  of  3,912.  Of 
these,  202  were  white,  127  were  of  mixed  blood,  and  the  remainder 
were  classed  as  Indians.  These  figures  refer,  of  course,  only  to  that 
portion  of  the  Yukon  territory  which  lies  within  Alaska.  The  natives 
of  the  Yukon  Basin  are  Indians  and  Eskimos.  The  Eskimos  are 
limited  to  the  region  about  the  mouth  of  the  Yukon,  extending  up  the 
river  some  hundred  miles  above  the  delta,  while  the  great  interior 
basin  is  inhabited  by  the  Indians.  Along  the  Lower  Yukon  are 
several  tribes  of  Indians  which  have  considerable  Eskimo  blood.  The 
stories  of  the  warlike  Indians  which  are  said  to  inhabit  some  of  the 
more  remote  districts  of  the  Yukon  Basin  are  totally  without  founda- 
tion; both  Indians  and  Eskimos  are  quiet  and  peaceable. 

The  white  population  of  the  Yukon  district  can  at  present  be  only 
roughly  estimated.  In  1898  probably  upwards  of  50,000  people 
entered  the  basin  by  way  of  the  Lewes  Eiver  routes  and  from  the 
mouth  of  the  Yukon,  but  many  of  these  left  the  country  without 
scarcely  having  been  out  of  sight  of  the  banks  of  the  great  river. 
There  are  now  probably  between  6,000  and  7,000  people  in  the  Alaskan 
portion  of  the  Yukon  district. 


100 


MAI»S    AND    DESCRIPTIONS    OF    ALASKA. 


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THE  EXTREME  SOUTHEASTERN  COAST. 


Bv  G.    H.    EliDRIDGB. 


In  the  Alexander  Archipelago,  which  occnpies  the  Alaskan  Coast 
from  Dixous  Entrance  to  Cross  Sound,  there  are  many  localities  under- 
lain by  the  Kenai  series,  the  coal-bearing  formation  of  Alaska,  but 
the  careful  investigation  by  Dr.  Wm.  H.  Dall  in  1895^  failed  to  dis- 
cover more  than  seams  of  low-grade  lignites.  Considerable  prospect- 
ing had  been  done  prior  to  this  time,  but  to  no  purpose.  Most  of  the 
following  notes  in  regard  to  gold  in  the  Alexander  Archipelago  are 
based  upon  a  report  of  Dr.  G.  F.  Becker.* 

The  data  which  are  available  concerning  the  gold  are  too  meager 
to  permit  any  very  important  generalizations.  There  is  a  distinct 
zonal  development  of  the  deposits  in  the  Alexander  Archipelago, 
including  Sumdum,  Juneau,  and  Berners  Bay,  and  the  general  direc- 
tion of  this  belt  is  that  of  the  schistosity  of  this  part  of  the  country. 
The  great  mine  of  this  belt  is  the  famous  Alaska-Treadwell.  The  ores 
are  normal  gold  ores,  except  that  calcite  is  unusually  abundant,  and 
there  is  sufiicient  reason  for  connecting  their  genesis  with  eruptive 
phenomena.  The  deposits  of  this  belt  are  so  similar  in  position  and 
character  to  those  of  British  Columbia  and  California  that,  in  the 
absence  of  direct  evidence,  they  may  be  regarded  as  contemporaneous 
with  them  and  probably  of  early  Cretaceous  age. 

Farther  westward  occur  the  deposits  near  Sitka,  on  Baranof  Island; 
and  very  possibly  the  source  of  the  gold  of  Lituya  Bay,  in  west  longi- 
tude 137°  30',  may  be  a  prolongation  of  this  group.  The  mineralizing 
action  on  Baranof  Island  does  not  appear  to  have  been  very  vigorous. 
The  island  seems  to  be  quite  as  old  as  the  more  easterly  belt. 

In  the  region  of  the  Alaska-Treadwell  mine  the  main  mass  of  the 
country  and  the  oldest  rock  is  a  carbonaceous  slate  of  very  uniform 
texture.  The  age  of  the  slate  was  thought  by  Dr.  Dawson  to  be  very 
probably  Triassic,  from  its  analogy  with  rocks  on  the  coast  of  British 
Columbia,  There  is  no  direct  evidence  as  to  age  yet  available.  After 
the  sediments  had  been  reduced  to  the  condition  of  slate,  syenite  was 
intruded  into  them.  This  intrusion  was  of  a  very  irregular  character, 
although  it  may  be  called  a  dike.  In  the  Alaska-Treadwell  it  swells 
out  to  450  feet  in  width,  including,  however,  large  "horses."  To  the 
northwest  and  to  the  southeast  it  narrows  and  is  sometimes  reduced 

>  Seventeenth  Ann.  Kept.  U.  S.  Geol.  Survey,  Part  1, 1896,  p.  772. 
'  Eighteenth  Ann.  Rept.  U.  S.  Geol.  Sui-vey,  Part  III,  1898,  p.  60. 


102  MAPS    AND    DKSCRIFPIONS    OF    ALASKA. 

to  a  system  of  parallel  dikes  divided  by  slate.  After  the  syenite 
intrusiou  eaiue  one  of  g-abhri).  It  forms  a  dike  a  couple  of  hundred 
feet  in  width,  and  follows  the  northeast  wall  of  the  deposit  pretty 
closely,  thou<j:h  sometimes  separated  from  it  by  slate.  This  rock  has 
been  turnetl  to  ''greenstone"  by  the  action  of  solutions,  seemingly 
those  attending  the  ore  deposition. 

Silver  Bow  Basin  lies  about  8  miles  from  Juneau,  a  little  north 
of  e;ist,  near  the  head  of  a  stream  called  Gold  C!reek,  In  the  hills 
to  the  southeast  lies  a  glacier  which  formerly  extended  to  the  mouth 
of  Gold  Creek  and  biiilt  up  the  moraines,  a  part  of  which  is  now 
occupied  by  the  outskirts  of  Juneau.  This  glacier  excavated,  or  at 
least  swept  out,  a  considerable  depression  in  the  position  of  Silver 
Bow  Basin.  The  depression  was  subseciuently  occupied  by  a  lake, 
separated  from  the  lower  stretches  of  the  creek  by  a  solid  rock  divide. 
The  lake  beds  of  Silver  Bow  Basin  are  auriferous  to  a  very  considera- 
ble extent,  and  mining  has  been  vigorously  prosecuted.  The  country 
rock  is  a  micaceous  schist  of  sedimentary  origin,  carrying  garnets. 

Sheep  Creek  Basin  lies  to  the  southeast  of  Silver  Bow  Basin,  at  a 
distance  of  about  3  miles,  and  the  t  wo  areas  are  separated  by  a  divide. 
The  direction  of  the  mines  of  the  two  localities  from  one  another  is 
the  sjime  as  the  strike  of  the  schistosity  of  the  country,  or  as  the 
course  of  Gastineau  Channel.  They  are,  in  fact,  on  a  continuous  belt 
of  quartz  deposits.  The  rocks  of  the  basin  consist  of  carbonaceous 
and  micaceous  schists,  whose  strike  is  N.  40°  W.  and  dip  70°  N. 
Possibly  there  are  also  dikes  of  gabbro  similar  to  that  accompanying 
the  Tread  well  ore  deposit. 

At  Sumdum  Bay  the  rocks  are  green  slate,  black  bituminous  slate, 
and  dikes  of  a  massive  rock,  seemingly  granite,  but  too  decx)mposed 
for  satisfactory  study.  The  schists  strike  and  dip  very  irregularly, 
from  N.  45°  E.  to  ]!^.  70°  W.,  and  have  been  greatly  disturbed.  The 
main  lens  of  ore  being  worked  is  from  5  feet  in  width  downward. 
The  ore  consists  of  quartz,  galena,  zinc  blende,  pyrite,  and  mispickel, 
and  is  richest  on  the  foot  wall. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Sitka  gold  occurs  in  quartz  veins.  Besides  these 
there  was  reported  as  found  last  summer  in  Pandy  Basin,  several 
miles  inland  from  Sitka  and  high  up  in  the  mountains,  a  shallow  lake 
of  supposedly  glacial  origin,  where  the  gravel  beds  at  the  bottom 
show  a  very  high  content  of  gold.  A  company  has  been  formed  to 
drain  the  lake  and  to  wash  the  accumulated  gravels. 


THE    COAST    FROM    LYNN^    CANAL    TO    PRINCE   WILLIAM 

SOUND. 


By  Gr.  H.  Eldridge. 


LHuya  Bay. — From  the  beach  sands  north  of  Lituya  Bay  considera- 
ble gold  has  been  taken  out  for  some  years  past. 

Yakutat. — Yakutat  is  situated  on  an  abandoned  moraine  of  the 
glaciers  of  which  the  Malaspina  is  now  the  chief;  the  bowlders  found 
here  are  therefore  those  of  the  St.  Elias  Range,  This  morainal 
material  carries  some  gold,  and  on  the  beach  across  from  Yakutat, 
where  the  surf  from  the  open  sea  comes  in,  the  beach  sands  are  said  to 
pay  for  washing;  also  in  some  low  morainal  islands  directly  off  Yakutat 
some  gold  has  been  profitably  taken  out.  In  the  first  place  mentioned 
the  surf  seems  to  have  played  a  part  in  the  concentration  of  the  gold 
and  black  sand  from  the  morainal  material,  since  in  places  where  there 
is  little  surf  there  appears  to  be  less  concentration.  Gold  was  discov- 
ered here  in  1880. 

Several  hundred  prospectors  last  summer  attempted  to  cross  from 
Yakutat  Bay  over  the  St.  Elias  Range  to  the  Alsek  River.  A  few  of 
them  succeeded  in  the  attempt  and  explored  both  of  the  principal 
branches  of  the  Alsek,  finding  the  river  to  be  considerably  different 
from  the  representation  on  the  map,  although  no  data  sufficient  for 
the  correction  of  the  map  were  obtained.  One  party  reached  Dalton's 
trading  post.  None  of  the  prospectors  discovered  any  gold  of  impor- 
tance, so  far  as  could  be  learned. 

Chilkat  coalfield. — The  Chilkat  coal  field  is  situated  about  12  miles 
north-northeast  of  Catalla  Harbor  in  Controllers  Bay.  The  mouth  of 
this  harbor  is  in  latitude  60°  14'  30"  N.,  and  longitude  144°  59'  W. 
The  place  is  about  9  miles  east  of  the  easternmost  outlet  of  the 
Copper  River.  The  rocks  are  Tertiary  and  supposed  to  be  of  the 
Kenai  group,  although  evidences  of  metamorphism  are  found  here. 
Leaf  beds  are  well  represented,  appearing  as  dark  beds  of  organic, 
arenaceous  shale,  rich  in  fossil  flora  and  carbonaceous  matter.  Mr. 
F.  H.  Shepard,  mining  engineer,  of  Nanaimo,  British  Columbia, 
engineer  for  the  company  engaged  in  exploiting  the  field,  regards 
these  large  beds  of  organic  matter  as  the  probable  origin  of  the  oil 
flows  of  the  region. 

The  coal  is  said  to  have  a  bright  black  luster,  conchoidal  fracture, 
and  the  characteristics  of  semi-anthracite  with  the  exception  of  hard- 
ness.     The  difference  between  these  coals  and  those  of  Cook  Inlet  is 

103 


104  MAPS    AND    DERCRimONS    OF    ALASKA. 

ascribed  t<)  llu-  prcsciic*'  of  larj^c  bodies  of  igneous  rock  in  the  moun- 
tiiius,  which  has  so  altered  both  the  coal  and  the  accompanying  strata 
as  entirely  to  chanjije  them  in  physical  appearance  and  character.  The 
sandstones  and  shales  are  indurate<l  and  resist  weatherin<^,  and  the 
coal  seams  immediately  contignous  to  the  main  intrusion  have  become 
valueless,  as  evidenced  by  float  specimens  found  well  up  the  Chilkat 
River.  In  the  lield  in  general,  alteration  has  been  such  as  to  raise  an 
otherwise  interior  coal  to  one  of  commeicial  value.  The  rocks  in  the 
field  are  conformable  and  the  structure  is  monoclinal.  There  is  no 
folding,  only  local  deviation  of  strike.  On  the  Chilkat  River,  10  or 
12  miles  east  of  the  coal  lield  and  2  miles  from  the  coast,  is  abundant 
tloal  coal  of  the  same  generally  high  character,  with  an  occusional 
specimen  of  the  more  altered  variety.  The  river  bed  at  this  point 
contains  evidence  of  near  approach  to  the  older  rocks,  and  specimens 
of  metamorphic  quartzite,  slaty  rocks,  and  an  occasional  piece  of 
granite  are  found.  The  coal  seams  in  the  Chilkat  field  are  said  to 
attiiin  a  maximum  thickness  of  27  feet,  while  many  of  them  are 
reported  from  10  to  12  feet  thick  and  fairly  clejin. 

The  oil-bearing  beds  which  are  found  in  the  same  field  as  the  coal 
are  a  heavy  series  of  black  shales  with  a  few  imperfect  plant  remains 
and  shell  casts;  they  are  said  to  underlie  the  coal-bearing  series. 
Both  the  coal-bearing  series  and  the  underlying  shales  must  be  several 
thousan<l  feet  thick. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Yakutagi  (Yaktag)  oil  is  found,  but  no  coal. 
The  oil  occurs  in  the  same  series  of  shales  that  is  mentioned  above, 
and  the  overlying  coal-bearing  series,  though  not  found  at  the  coast, 
is  thought  to  be  farther  inland.  The  structure  here  is  an  anticlinal 
fold  with  axis  practically  parallel  to  the  coast  and  to  the  mountain 
range.  At  Cape  Yakutagi,  in  sandstone  1,000  to  2,000  feet  high  on 
the  mountain,  are  found  well-characterized  Miocene  fossils.  The 
sandstone  is  interbedded  with  impure  limestone  and  some  shales. 
According  to  Mr.  Shepard,  this  sjindstoue  is  the  reservoir  of  the  oil, 
and  along  here  the  oil  springs  are  found.  Dr.  Dall,  on  examining  the 
fossils  from  the  sandstone,  observes  that  the  oil  here,  as  elsewhere  on 
the  Pacific  coast,  is  undoubtedly  derived  from  underlying  Eocene  beds. 

Kcviak  and  Little  Kayak  islands. — These  islands  are  formed  of  folded, 
slightly  indurated  conglomerates,  sandstones,  and  shales,  overlain  by 
gravels  and  sands. 

Middleton  Island. — On  the  ejist  side  of  Middleton  Island  the  beach 
sands  are  auriferous,  the  gold  being  often  coarse. 


THE  PKINCE  WILLIAM  SOUND  AND  COPPER  RIVER 

COUNTRY/ 


By   F.    C.    SCHRADKR. 


Topography. — Prince  William  Sound  is  a  large  bay  at  the  head  of 
the  Gulf  of  Alaska,  west  of  the  mouth  of  the  Copper  River.  A  some- 
what plateau-like  belt  of  mountains  about  60  miles  in  width — the 
western  continuation  of  the  St.  Elias  Range — separates  it  from  the 
Copper  River  Basin  on  the  north.  The  general  land  mass  of  these 
mountains  has  an  elevation  of  about  5,000  feet  and  slopes  gently 
toward  the  coast ;  its  surface  is  stadded  with  innumerable  peaks  and 
discontinuous  or  toothed  ridges  interspersed  with  local  glaciers  and 
nev^'S,  while  its  edges  are  cut  by  short,  deep  canyons,  which  carry  off 
the  drainage.  The  mountains  in  general  break  off  rather  abruptly 
both  on  the  coastward  and  on  the  inland  side.  In  Prince  William 
Sound  their  lower  reaches  have  been  in  part  submerged,  resulting  in 
a  drowned  topography,  with  the  mouths  of  the  former  valleys  con- 
verted into  fiords  and  inlets,  which  deeply  indent  the  coast  and  afford 
excellent  harborage  for  the  largest  vessels. 

The  Copper  River  breaks  through  the  range  near  the  coast  and 
spreads  out  into  a  broad  delta  extending  30  miles  to  the  sea.  The 
basin  of  the  river  back  of  the  mountains  is  about  80  miles  in 
diameter,  and  is  overlain  by  recent  lake  beds  composed  of  silts  and 
gravels,  about  1,000  feet  in  thickness ;  the  surface  slopes  gently  from 
the  base  of  the  mountains  toward  the  center  of  the  basin,  where  the 
elevation  is  about  1,500  feet.  Into  these  beds  the  Copper  and  its 
tributaries  have  cut  sharp  canyons  to  a  depth  of  500  to  600  feet,  and 
are  still  cutting  rapidly.  The  current  is  everywhere  vigorous,  aver- 
aging on  the  Copper  about  7  miles  an  hour,  while  the  tributaries  are 
not  safe  even  for  small  boats. 

A  northwest  spur  of  the  St.  Elias  Range  extends  into  the  basin  on 
the  east,  where  it  terminates  in  the  Wrangell  group  of  rugged  moun- 
tains, which  reach  a  maximum  height  of  more  than  17,000  feet  and 
are  supposed  to  be  mostly  of  volcanic  origin.  Between  this  spur  and 
the  main  range  on  the  south  is  the  Chittyna  River,  the  largest  tribu- 
tary of  the  Copper.  The  north  edge  of  the  basin  at  Mentasta  Pass  is 
reported  to  be  2,300  feet  high. 

Koutes. — The  only  route  which  has  thus  far  been  at  all  practicable 
for  getting  into  the  Copper  River  country  from  the  coast  is  the  Valdez 

'  For  more  detailed  statement  the  reader  is  referred  to  the  special  report,  p.  51. 

105 


lOT)  MAPS    AN'I>    DKSCItll'I'IONS    OF    ALASKA. 

glat'ier  trail,  which  crosses  lor  a  distance  of  25  miles  over  the  Valdez 
and  Kluteua  {jUu^ers.  The  highest  part  of  the  trail  is  4,800  feet 
above  sea  level,  and  the  whole  route  is  totally  destitute  of  vegetation. 
From  the  foot  of  the  Kluteua  glacier  the  way  leads  down  the 
Kluteua  River  to  Copper  Center,  whence  the  Millard  trail  leads  north 
toward  Meutasta  Pass,  the  gateway  to  the  Tanana,  Fortymile,  and 
Yukon.     Other  routes  arc  being  investigated. 

Explorations. — Prince  William  Sound  was  lirst  discovered  by  Captain 
Cook  in  1778 ;  it  was  further  explored  by  the  Spanish  through  Fidalgo 
in  1700,  and  by  Vancouver  in  1794. 

In  1779  Caudra  (Spanish)  correctly  surmised  the  location  of  the 
Copper;  in  1783  Nagaief  (Russian)  discovered  and  ascended  the 
Copper  for  a  short  distance;  in  1794  Purtof  made  a  pa»ssage  to  the 
second  mouth  of  the  Copper  from  the  west  side;  and  in  1796  an  expe- 
dition under  Smiloff  to  the  Copper  River  was  cut  off  by  the  natives.* 
Lastochiu  in  1798  visited  the  Copper  with  great  caution.*  In  1803 
Bazanolf  explored  the  Copper  River  for  a  short  distance, '  and  sixteen 
years  later  Klimofsky  made  another  attempt.*  In  1843  two  parties 
of  the  Russian- American  Company  explored  the  Susliitnaaud  Copper 
rivers  to  trade  with  the  natives."^  In  1848  Serebranikoff,  to  whose 
researches  our  best  knowledge  of  the  course  of  the  river  for  a  long 
time  was  due,  ascended  the  Copper,  but  was  killed  by  the  natives  for 
his  misconduct."  At  the  mouth  of  the  Chittyua  a  single  Russian 
remained  for  a  few  years  and  traded  with  the  natives.^  In  1882 
C.  G.  Holt  ascended  the  Copper  as  far  as  Taral.*  In  1884  Capt.  (then 
Lieut.)  W.  R.  Abercrombie,  of  the  United  States  Army,  ascended 
the  Copper  as  tar  as  the  Miles  glacier.*  In  the  same  year  John 
Bremmer,  a  miner,  ascended  as  far  as  Taral  and  wintered  there  with 
the  natives  until  the  spring  of  1885,  when  he  accompanied  Allen.'" 
During  the  spring  and  summer  of  1885  Lieut.  H.  T.  Allen,  of  the 
United  States  Army,  made  a  creditable  reconnaissance  trip  by  boat 
and  portage  up  the  Copper  from  its  mouth,  leaving  its  basin  north- 
ward by  way  of  Suslota  Pass.'*  In  1891  Lieut.  Frederick  Schwatka 
and  Dr.  C.  W.  Hayes,  in  exploring  overland  from  Fort  Selkirk  to  the 
cjoast,  crossed  the  divide  between  the  White  and  Copper  rivers,  at 
Scolai  Pass,  and  descended  the  Nizzena,  the  Chittyna,  and  thence  the 


•  Alaska  and  its  Resources,  by  W.  H.  Dall,  p.  817. 
»Op.  cit.,  p.  370. 

»0p.  cit..  p.  .321. 
*Op.  cit.,  p.  .3.31. 

•  Bancroft's  Historj-  of  Alaska,  p.  526. 

•  Alaska  and  its  Resources,  by  Dall,  pp.  272,  343. 
'Op.  cit..  p.  272. 

•  Lieut.  H.  T.  Allen's  Reconnais-sance  in  Alaska,  1885,  p.  223. 

•  W.  R.  Abercrombie's  unpublished  report  on  the  Copper  River  Expedition  No.  2,  of  1898. 
""Lieut.  H.  T.  Allen's  Reconnaissance  in  Alaska,  1885,  p.  23. 

"Op.  cit. 


PRINCE    WILLIAM    SOUND    AND    (M)PPER    RIVP:R    COUNTRY.     107 

Copper  to  its  mouth/  The  topographic  map  about  Scdai  Pass  and 
the  Upper  Chittyua  by  Hayes  is  the  only  one  made  of  that  district 
and  is  of  value.  It  shows  a  rugged  mountainous  district  with 
many  local  glaciers.  On  the  Lower  Copper,  at  the  Miles  glacier,  the 
river  tumbles  over  a  belt  of  huge  moraine  bowlders  and  is  impassable 
for  boats,  necessitating  a  portage  of  sometimes  a  couple  of  miles 
across  moraine  and  glacier.  During  the  summer  of  1898  the  delta  of 
the  Copper  was  surveyed  by  a  party  from  the  United  States  Coast  and 
Geodetic  Survey  in  charge  of  Mr.  Eitter. 

Native  population. — The  natives  about  Prince  William  Sound  prob- 
ably number  about  .300.  They  are  mostly  Aleuts,  who  are  peaceful 
and  have  long  been  under  missionary  influence.  Tatitlak,  Chenega, 
Eyak,  N"uchek,  and  Alaganik  are  their  chief  villages.  They  are  not 
a  healthy  people,  being  frequently  afflicted  with  pulmonary  complaints. 

About  a  dozen  white  men  have  married  into  the  native  tribes  and 
have  become  residents.  Two  large  salmon  canneries,  one  at  Orca  and 
the  other  at  Eyak,  are  operated  by  American  companies  during  the 
summer  months  only.  The  labor  they  employ  is  mostly  Chinese, 
imported  from  San  Francisco  for  each  season  only.  Orca  is  also  a 
United  States  post-office,  with  monthly  mail. 

The  Copper  Elver  natives  probably  number  fewer  than  300  in  all. 
Of  the  Kulchana,  the  Tezlinas  and  ' '  Sticks ' '  (or  Stephans)  dwell  on 
the  Upper  Copper,  the  Mcolai  or  Taral  natives  on  the  Chittyna.  They 
are  peaceful,  hospitable,  and  honest,  and  aided  the  whites  in  many 
ways  during  the  summer  of  1898. 

Prospectors  and  adventurers. — Led  by  the  gold  fever  in  1898,  it  is 
estimated  that  more  than  4,000  people,  mostly  Americans,  and  their 
outfits  landed  at  Valdez  during  the  spring  and  early  summer.  Of 
these,  about  3,000  are  supposed  to  have  entered  the  Copper  Eiver 
country  by  way  of  the  Valdez  glacier,  while  several  hundred  attempted 
to  ascend  the  Copper  from  its  mouth.  As  the  hardships  of  the  coun- 
try were  severe  and  but  little  gold  was  found,  the  exodus  began 
early  in  May  and  continued  till  late  in  October.  Of  these  people 
probably  about  300  in  all  remained  in  the  Copper  Eiver  country, 
mostly  at  Copper  Center,  during  the  winter  of  1898-99,  and  a  score  or 
so  at  Valdez,  on  the  coast.  Application  has  been  made  for  the  estab- 
lishment of  United  States  post-offices  at  Valdez  and  Copper  Center. 

Resources. — The  resources  of  Prince  William  Sound  are  timber, 
fish  (such  as  salmon  and  halibut),  copper  ore,  with  some  gold,  and 
fur-bearing  animals,  such  as  the  bear,  wolf,  fox,  and  seal.  The  busi- 
ness of  raising  blue  fox  for  their  pelts  has  attained  considerable 
development. 

In  the  Copper  Eiver  country  timber  abounds  almost  throughout  the 

•  An  expedition  through  the  Yukon  district,  by  C.  W.  Hayes:  Nat.  Geog.  Mag.,  May  15,  1893, 
Vol.  II,  p.  124. 


108  MAPS    AND    DESCRIPTIONS    OF    ALASKA. 

biisin.  S<ime  placer  gold  is  reported  to  have  been  discovered  and  as 
being  worked  on  the  Tonsina,  the  Slana,  and  theTeikell.  Apparently 
good  gold-bearing  (juartz  and  some  copper  ore  have  been  found  on  the 
Chistocheena.  Judging  from  specimens  in  the  possession  of  the 
natives  and  from  reports  of  prospectors  who  have  visited  the  region, 
the  indications  of  copper  on  the  Chittyna  Kiver  are  good.  Bear, 
beaver,  wolf,  mountain  sheep,  caribou,  and  some  moose  occur  in  the 
country. 

Climate  and  vegetation. — On  Prince  William  Sound  the  climate  is 
generally  mild,  with  much  niin  and  an  annual  snowfall  of  from  7  to 
10  feet.  Spruce,  cedar,  poplar,  alder,  and  grass  are  of  luxuriant 
growth. 

In  the  Copper  River  country  the  summers  are  fine,  much  as  on  the 
Upper  Yukon.  Spruce,  hemlock,  poplar,  aspen,  alder,  birch,  and 
willow  abound.  Large  areas  of  good  pasture  and  hay  grass,  wild 
currants,  gooseberries,  raspberries,  and  many  species  of  wild  flowers, 
including  roses,  are  common.  The  winters  are  severe,  but  not  so  cold 
as  those  of  the  Upper  Yukon. 


THE  KEN^AI  PENINSULA.' 


By  W.  C.  Mendenhall, 


Topography. — The  northern  part  of  the  Kenai  Peninsula  is  treated 
in  the  special  report  on  the  region  between  Eesurrection  Bay  and  the 
Tauana  (p.  40).  South  of  Resurrection  Bay,  on  the  east,  the  coast 
continues  very  irregular,  with  numerous  deep  fiords,  the  most  impor- 
tant being  Nuka  Bay  and  Port  Dick,  to  Cook  Inlet,  The  shore  line  is 
everywhere  abrupt,  the  mountains  rising  directly  from  the  water,  and 
the  drainage  is  in  almost  all  instances  glacial. 

On  the  Cook  Inlet  side,  Port  Graham  and  Kachemak  Bay,  near  the 
southern  end  of  the  peninsula,  and  the  East  Foreland,  farther  north, 
are  the  only  interruptions  to  a  comparatively  regular  shore  line, 
Kachemak  Bay  separates  the  two  topographic  types  of  1  he  west  side 
of  the  peninsula ;  south  of  the  bay  the  scenery  is  alpine  and  irregular, 
while  toward  the  north  and  east  a  low  wooded  plain  extends  as  far  as 
Turnagain  Arm  and  the  foot  of  the  Kenai  Mountains. 

Inhabitants. — Along  the  western  shore  several  small  settlements  are 
scattered.  At  English  Bay,  within  Port  Graham,  a  village  of  100  or 
more  Kadiak  natives  and  a  few  whites  and  Russian  Creoles  live  by 
hunting  and  fishing.  Saldovia,  on  Herring  Bay,  just  south  of  the 
larger  bay  of  Kachemak,  is  a  village  very  similar  in  all  respects. 
On  the  north  shore  of  the  entrance  to  Kachemak  Bay  is  the  post- 
office  of  Homer,  and  scattered  along  the  beach  within  the  long  spit 
known  as  Coal  Point  are  buildings  occupied  at  various  times  by  the 
coal  companies  which  have  operated  on  the  deposits  here.  At  the 
mouth  of  the  Kussilof  River  are  some  large  canning  establishments, 
and  the  inhabitants  of  the  village  are  mostly  white  and  Chinese 
employees,  A  few  miles  to  the  south  is  a  cluster  of  native  houses 
with  perhaps  a  hundred  inhabitants.  Near  the  mouth  of  Kenai 
Eiver,  which  enters  the  inlet  15  miles  north  of  the  Kussilof,  the  first 

'  The  authorities  from  which  most  of  the  information  concerning  the  Kenai  Peninsula,  the  Kadiak 
Islands,  the  Alaska  Peninsula,  and  the  Aleutian  Islands  has  been  gathered,  and  which  should  be 
consulted  by  those  who  want  much  more  complete  accounts  of  these  regions,  their  inhabitants, 
industries,  climate,  and  resources,  are — 

Alaska  and  its  Resources,  by  W   H.  Dall;  Lee  &  Shepard,  Boston,  1870. 

Report  on  the  coal  and  lignite  of  Alaska,  by  W.  H.  Dall:  Seventeenth  Ann.  Rept.  U.  S.  Geol. 
Survey,  Part  I,  1896,  pp.  771-908. 

Reconnaissance  of  the  gold  fields  of  southern  Alaska,  by  George  F.  Becker:  Eighteenth  Ann. 
Rept.  U.  S.  Geol.  Survey,  Part  III,  189 -t,  pp.  1-S6. 

Report  on  the  Population,  Industries,  and  Resources  of  Alaska,  by  Ivan  Petroflf ;  Tenth  Census 
U.  S.,  1884. 

Report  on  the  Population  and  Resources  of  Alaska;  Eleventh  Censas  U.  S.,  1890. 

109 


110  MAPS    AND    DESCRIPTIONS    OF    ALASKA. 

pennanont  liiissiau  settlement  in  Cook  Inlet  wa«  eatablished,  and  a 
stoekaileil  iVnt,  the  redoubt  St.  Nieholas,  wjis  built  here.  At  present 
a  lar{i;e  salmon  cannery,  employing  about  125  white  and  Chinese 
laborers,  oec-upies  the  site,  and  near  by  is  a  village  of  1.50  natives. 

Geology. — The  mountain  range  forming  the  central  and  eastern  part 
of  the  peninsula  is  probably  made  up  of  the  slates  and  coarser  altered 
sedimentary  rocks  of  the  Sunrise  series,  described  elsewhere,  while 
the  platciiu  of  the  northwestern  shore  is  supposed  to  be  underlain  by 
the  Tertiarj^  beds  which  outcrop  at  Kachemak  Bay  and  a  few  points 
farther  north.  More  or  less  regularly  over  this  Tertiary  plateau 
unconsolidated  gravels  are  distributed,  and  extend  for  some  distance 
up  the  valleys  which  dissect  the  mountainous  part  of  the  peninsula. 

Gold. — Last  season  gold  in  paying  quantities  was  reported  in  veins 
at  Port  Dick,  but  no  tests  have  been  made  of  the  value  of  the  deposit. 
At  Anchor  Point,  25  miles  northwest  of  Kachemak  Bay,  a  concen- 
tration of  gold  from  the  bluff  gravels  by  wave  action,  sufficiently  rich 
to  induce  prospectors  to  attempt  its  extraction,  has  given  employment 
to  several  miners  during  past  seasons,  and  it  is  claimed  that  these 
gravels  have  yielded  as  high  as  $7  a  day  to  the  man.  The  most 
important  gold  fields  of  the  peninsula  are  in  the  northern  part,  about 
Turnagain  Arm,  and  are  treated  more  fully  in  the  special  report  (p.  47). 

Coal. — The  coals  of  Kachemak  Bay  and  vicinity  are  among  the  most 
valuable  and  the  best  known  in  Alaska.  Dr.  Dall  reports  several 
seams  here,  varying  in  thickness  up  to  4  feet  7  inches,  and  the  analyses 
which  accompany  his  report,  while  usually  showing  excessive  ash 
and  an  amount  of  water  which  classes  the  deposits  as  lignites,  indicate 
a  fair  volatile  and  fixed  carbon  relation  and  show  low  sulphur. 
Experiments  conducted  by  Lieutenant  Schwerin  in  1891  indicate  for 
these  coals  about  75  per  cent  of  the  fuel  value  of  the  Nanaimo, 
British  Columbia,  product. 

The  attitude  of  the  beds  here  and  the  harbor  facilities  are  very 
favorable  for  exploitation,  and  the  coal  is  used  whenever  the  local 
needs  demand  it  as  a  fuel.  Some  test  shipments  have  been  made  to 
San  Francisco  and  other  points  in  the  States,  but  in  these  markets  the 
Kachemak  coals  are  unable  to  compete  with  the  better  products  of 
Puget  Sound  and  vicinity.  Port  Graham  also  contains  coal  beds,  but 
the  rocks  here  are  much  folded  and  faulted,  making  extraction  diffi- 
cult and  hazardous. 


THE  SUSHJTNA  DRAINAGE  AREA. 
By  G.  H.  Eldridge. 


This  region  will  be  treated  very  briefly  here,  since  a  fuller  account 
may  be  found  in  the  special  report  of  the  Sushitna  expedition  in  the 
first  part  of  this  publication  (p.  15), 

Topography  and  general  features. — The  Sushitna  Valley  is  100  miles 
wide  by  150  long,  and  is  inclosed  by  the  Alaskan,  Tordrillo,  and 
Talkeetna  ranges  on  the  north,  west,  and  east  respectively.  The 
Alaskan  Range  carries  the  highest  peak  in  North  America,  Mount 
McKinley,  20,461  feet  in  elevation.  The  Sushitna  River  drains  this 
\  ast  watershed  on  the  south.  It  has  four  important  branches :  20 
miles  above  the  mouth  the  Yentna,  150  miles  long,  comes  in  from 
the  northwest;  78  miles  from  the  mouth  the  Talkeetna  enters  from 
the  east ;  and  80  miles  from  the  mouth  the  Chulitna  flows  in  from 
the  north.  Between  the  delta  and  the  mouth  of  the  Chulitna  the 
Sushitna  maintains  a  width  of  one-half  to  2  miles,  with  a  current  in 
the  main  channels  of  4  to  5  miles  an  hour.  The  banks  of  the  river 
in  the  delta  region  are  but  5  or  6  feet  above  ordinary  water  level,  but 
above  the  Yentna  they  range  from  60  to  250  feet  above  the  river 
water  line.  Beyond  a  point  5  to  10  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the 
Chulitna  the  main  river  lies  in  a  gorge  400  to  500  feet  deep,  carved  in 
the  bottom  of  an  earlier  valley  from  2  to  8  miles  wide,  with  ranges  on 
either  side  rising  to  an  elevation  of  4,500  feet.  This  topography  pre- 
vails to  a  point  60  or  70  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Chulitna,  when 
the  river  is  reported  to  lie  in  a  high  open  country  with  mountains  on 
its  edges.  The  Chulitna  drains  the  slopes  of  Mount  McKinley  and 
the  adjacent  portion  of  the  Alaskan  Range.  At  the  head  of  two  or 
three  of  its  larger  branches  are  low  passes — 2,700  to  4,200  feet  in 
elevation — to  the  waters  of  the  Cantwell  River,  a  tributary  of  the 
Tan  ana. 

Geology. — The  Sushitna  Valley  embraces  in  its  formations  a  bright- 
gray,  moderately  coarse- textured,  massive  or  gneissoid  granite;  a 
series  of  slates,  apparently  many  thousand  feet  thick,  which  consti- 
tute the  chief  outcrops  of  the  Alaskan  Range  and  its  foothills ;  and 
the  Kenai  sandstones,  shales,  and  interbedded  coal  seams,  of  Upper 
Eocene  age.  A  conglomerate  was  observed  on  the  north  side  of  the 
range,  consisting  of  a  coarse  sand  matrix  with  pebbles  of  slate,  prob- 
ably from  the  slate  series  below ;  its  age  is  unknown. 

Mineral  resources. — The  mineral  resources  of  the  region  traversed 

B- Alaska.  •  HI 


112  MAPS    AND    DESCIUm'IONS    OF    ALASKA. 

are  ^old  and  ooal,  (Jold  is  found  in  placers,  and  wa.s  observed  in 
every  bar  of  the  Sushitna  Kiver  that  w;us  prospecte<l  for  a  distance  of 
125  miles  from  its  mouth.  Placer  gold,  coarser  than  in  the  bars  of 
the  Sushitna,  was  also  found  in  the  mountain  torrents  tributary  to 
this  stream  running  oil'  the  slates.  It  is  highly  probable  that  all  of 
fcbis  placer  gold  is  derived  from  mineralized  (piartz  seams  in  the 
elates.  Gold  was  found  last  season  on  the  Cheualdna,  a  tributary  of 
the  Talkeetna,  also  rising  in  the  slate  series. 

The  coal  is  found  in  the  Keuai  formation.  The  beds  vary  in  thick- 
ness from  a  few  inches  up  to  IG  feet,  but  all  are  badly  interrupted  by 
elate.  Moreover,  the  coal  itself  is  a  very  low  grade  lignite,  the 
youngest  perhaps  that  can  be  observed  anywhere  outside  of  a  modern 
peat  bog. 

AgricuUure. — The  possibilities  for  extensive  agricultural  interests  in 
the  region  bordering  Cook  Inlet  and  the  Sushitna  Valley  are  most 
promising.  In  the  vicinity  of  Tyonek,  and  again  at  a  point  20  miles 
up  the  Sushitna  River,  Irish  potatoes,  peas,  turnips  of  the  finest 
flavor,  beets,  lettuce,  and  radishes  grow  readily.  In  the  wilds  of  the 
valleys  and  mountains  berries  abound.  The  soils  of  the  valley  are 
rich  and  extend  to  depths  of  4  to  10  feet.  The  marsh  lands  are 
heavily  grassed,  those  adjacent  to  the  mountains  with  blue-stem,  a 
rich  grass  which  is  well  known  in  northern  United  States.  The 
climate  of  the  Sushitna  Valley  is  said  to  be,  for  average  years,  neither 
dry  nor  wet. 

Foittes. — The  Sushitna  Valley  is  at  present  accessible  only  by  row- 
boats  or  canoes  which  follow  the  main  tributaries,  but  our  observations 
led  to  the  conclusion  that  trails,  wagon  roads,  and  even  railways  can 
be  built  with  easy  grade  and  at  comparatively  small  expense.  More- 
over, the  valley  would  furnish  the  most  direct  route  to  the  interior  of 
Alaska  by  way  of  the  Cantwell  Ri\'er,  which  heads  against  the 
Sushitna. 


THE   KADIAK   ISLANDS. 
By  W.  C.  Mendenhall. 


General  description. — This  important  group  lies  southwest  of  the 
Kenai  Peninsula,  to  which  it  is  topographically  and  structurally 
related,  and  west  of  the  Alaska  Peninsula,  being  separated  from  the 
latter  by  the  open  waters  of  Shelikof  Stiaits. 

Beginning  at  the  north,  the  principal  islands  areShuyak,  Afognak, 
Kadiak,  Sitkalidak,  Sitkinak,  and  Tugidak.  Afognak  and  Kadiak 
are  much  the  largest  of  these  and  support  the  greater  part  of  the 
population  of  the  group.  Shuyak  contains  the  best  timber,  but  all 
of  AfogQak  and  the  northern  part  of  Kadiak  are  densely  wooded. 
There  is  no  timber  whatever  in  the  southern  part  of  the  group. 

The  village  of  Kadiak  (St.  Paul)  is  situated  on  the  northwestern 
part  of  the  island  of  the  same  name.  It  is  a  substantial  town  of  per- 
haps 500  inhabilan(s,  and  has  long  been  the  trade  center  for  this  part 
of  the  Alaskan  coavSt.  Before  the  settlement  of  Sitka  the  Russian- 
American  Trading  Company  had  its  headquarters  here,  and  since  the 
acquisition  of  the  territory  by  the  United  States  the  Alaska  Commer- 
cial Company  has  made  this  a  base  from  which  the  local  stations  on 
Cook  Inlet  and  the  xVlaska  Peninsula  draw  their  supplies.  Other 
settlements  within  the  group  are  Afognak,  on  Afognak  Island;  and 
Orlova,  Old  Harbor  Village,  and  Karluk,  on  Kadiak  Island.  Karluk 
is  especially  important  as  the  seat  of  the  most  important  salmon- 
canning  industry  in  Alaska.  In  1890  eight  salmon  canneries  were 
represented  here,  and  it  is  estimated  that  3,000,000  fish  were  caught. 

\\'ith  further  development  the  fishing  industry  promises  to  become 
much  more  important  in  the  Kadiak  Islands  than  it  is  at  present,  for 
besides  the  salmon  Avhich  abound  in  all  the  rivers,  cod  and  halibut 
are  abundant  in  the  surrounding  waters.  The  government  has 
recognized  the  future  importance  of  this  industry  by  making  the 
entire  Island  of  Afognak  a  United  States  fishery  reserve. 

The  inhabitants  are  whites,  representing  the  commercial  companies 
and  larger  enterprises ;  (^hinese,  employed  in  the  salmon  canneries ;  a 
few  Russians  and  Creoles,  and  the  native  Aleuts,  probably  a  branch  of 
the  Eskimo  family.  The  latter  still  engage  in  sea-otter  hunting,  seal- 
ing, and  trapping,  but  also  in  many  instances  cultivate  considerable 
gardens  and  raise  cattle. 

Geologn  and  mineral  resourcea. — Tertiary  beds  are  reported  to  (Xicur 
in  many  places  on  the  islands.     The  Russian  authorities  give  vague 

113 


114  MAPS    AND    IUCSCRIPTIONS    OK    ALASKA. 

<loH(Tij)ti(>ns  of  several  localities  alxtiit  the  middle  of  Kadiak  Island 
itself  where  plant-bearing  sediments  occur.  Dr.  liecker  and  Mr. 
Piiriugfton  collected  samples  of  coat  near  the  l»each  at  Ked  Kiver, 
Kadiak;  and  in  the  Eleventh  (\*nsus  report  coal  of  <>^ood  (juality  but 
inconvenient  of  access  is  stated  as  occurring  at  Sitkinak  Islan<l. 
Besides  thewe  coal-bearing  rocks,  an  older  series,  apparently  very 
closely  related  to  that  Avliich  forms  the  axis  of  the  Kenai  Peninsula, 
is  described  by  Dr.  Becker.  Several  gold  properties  have  been  lo«ited 
on  TJyak  Bay,  along  the  west  shore  of  Kadiak  Island,  in  these  rocks. 
They  are  described  as  sandstones  and  carbonaceous  slates,  and  the 
quartz  veins  in  which  the  g(>l(l  occurs  average  j)robal)ly  1  to  2  feet  in 
width  and  cut  across  the  cleavage.  Associated  with  the  gold  are  the 
sulphurets  pyrite  and  mispickel.  Fi-ee  gold  is  easily  panned  from  the 
quartz  outcrops,  but  )io  definite  determination  of  values  has  been 
made.  Along  the  southern  shore  of  Kadiak  Island,  at  Portage  and 
Ayukulik  rivers,  the  beach  gravels  have  been  washed  for  the  light 
gold  which  they  contain.  The  sands  carrying  this  gold  are  probably 
derived  from  the  mountains  several  miles  back  from  the  beach ;  they 
occur  in  patches  seldom  more  than  an  inch  in  thickness  and  a  few 
square  yards  in  area.  The  industry  is  as  yet  unimportant  and  does 
not  promise  well  unless  some  cheap  process,  such  as  cyanidiug,  which 
will  save  all  of  the  fine  gold,  can  be  used  in  its  extraction.  By  the 
methods  at  present  used  a  great  deal  of  this  flour  gold  is  lost. 


THE  ALASKA  PENINSULA  AND  THE  ALEUTIAN  ISLANDS. 


Bv  W.  C.  Mendknhall. 


Geographji. — The  Alaska  Peuiusula  and  the  Aleutian  Islands  from 
Lake  Iliamna  to  the  island  of  Attn,  and  including  the  westernmost 
possessions  of  the  United  States,  are  geographically  a  unit  and  will 
be  treated  as  such.  This  region  is  the  southwestern  extension  of  the 
volcanic  chain  west  of  Cook  Inlet,  and  as  the  mountains  are  more  or 
less  completely  submerged  they  appear  as  isolated  islands  or  a  con- 
tinuous laud  mass.  From  Kamishak  Bay  the  group  extends  south- 
west, gradually  curving  to  the  west  and  northwest,  and  with  the 
Commander  Islands,  oft"  the  Kamchatkan  coast,  which  belong  to  the 
Russians,  it  constitutes  the  southern  boundary  of  Bering  Sea.  Topo- 
graphically two  types  are  represented — the  rough  volcanic  backbone, 
lying  close  to  the  southern  shore  line  of  the  peninsula,  and  the  low 
tundra  apron,  flat  and  lake-covered,  stretching  northward  from  this 
backbone  to  Bristol  Bay  and  the  adjacent  parts  of  Bering  Sea.  Of 
these  two  types,  all  of  the  Aleutian  Islands  and  the  southern  edge 
of  the  peninsula  belong  to  the  first,  while  only  the  remainder  of  the 
peninsula  is  included  under  the  second.  All  of  the  islands  are 
mountainous,  heights  of  more  than  8,000  feet  being  reached.  These 
elevations  and  the  abundance  of  precipitation  give  conditions  favora- 
ble for  the  production  of  glaciers,  many  of  which  flow  down  from  the 
higher  summits. 

Geology. — No  systematic  study  of  the  geology  of  this  peninsular 
and  island  belt  has  thus  far  been  made,  although  many  observers  have 
contributed  limited  notes  on  portions  of  the  region.  Chief  among 
these  is  Dr.  W.  H.  Dall,  from  whose  publications  most  of  the  notes 
for  this  summary  have  been  taken. 

The  sedimentary  rocks,  where  found,  are  generally  of  Tertiary  age, 
sandstones  and  conglomerates  prevailing,  with  some  beds  of  associated 
shale ;  in  these  Tertiary  rocks  occur  the  coal  and  lignite  seams  which 
have  been  exploited  with  indifferent  success  in  manj^  localities.  The 
sediments  are  sometimes  undisturbed,  but  are  more  usually  folded, 
faulted,  intruded,  metamorphosed,  or  buried  under  flows — phe- 
nomena of  vulcanism  of  later  date  than  the  sediments  and  con- 
tinuing in  fact  down  to  the  present.  There  seem  to  be  fragments  of 
an  earlier  sedimentary  record  than  the  Tertiary  in  places;  e.  g.,  on 
the  Island  of  Attn,  the  westernmost  of  the  Aleutians,  metamorphic 
slates  and  quartzites  are  known,  and  in  the  middle  members  of  the 

115 


11()  MAPS    AND    DESCRIPTIONS    OF    ALASKA. 

Shuniajiin  <^i()up  of  islands  a  similar  series  is  reported.  Jurassic  rocks 
occur  in  the  region  of  Katmai  and  Naknek  Lake  and  at  many  other 
localities. 

Hut  the  recent  volcanic  phenomena  of  the  belt  are  much  the  most 
conspicuous  geologic  feature.  The  island  of  Bogoslof  rose  from  the 
sea  in  1790,  and  a  neighboring  island,  called  fJrewingk,  appeared  in 
188;>  and  has  ohangetl  considerably  in  elevation  and  outline  since  its 
appeanmce.  Akutan  Island  is  usually  active  and  is  regarded  by  Dr. 
Dall  as  emitting  more  lava  than  any  other  volcano  in  the  chain.  The 
Semisopochnoi,  the  Four  C-raters,  Unalaska,  Uniniak,  Atka,  Great 
Sitkin,  and  many  other  of  the  islands  are  the  sites  of  historical 
eruptions. 

The  recent  lavas,  according  to  Dr.  Becker,  are  andesites  and  dacites, 
the  latter  having  been  found  only  on  Unga  Islajid  near  the  Apollo 
mine.     Granites  are  reported  also  from  the  interior  of  this  island. 

Many  hot  springs  occur  throughout  the  peninsula  and  on  the  islands, 
and  are  undoubtedly  a  phase  of  the  volcanic  phenomena. 

Gold. — The  Apollo  Consolidated,  on  the  Island  of  Unga,  one  of  the 
Shumagins,  is  the  only  mine  west  of  Kadiak  which  has  yielded  any 
considerable  amount  of  gold.  The  deposit,  according  to  Dr.  Becker, 
is  a  reticulated  vein  or  mineralized  shear  zone,  and  stands  nearly 
vertical,  striking  about  N.  40°  E.  The  country  rocks  are  andesites 
and  dacites,  which  probably  overlie  sediments.  Besides  sulphurets, 
calcite,  native  copper,  and  probably  orthoclase  occur  as  gangue  min- 
erals. The  ore  averages  about  ^S  to  the  ton.  There  are  other  deposits 
in  the  immediate  neighborhood,  apparently  along  the  strike  of  the 
same  Icjid  which  is  worked  at  the  Apollo.  Except  this  deposit,  we 
have  no  reliable  reports  of  gold  on  either  the  peninsula  or  the 
islands. 

CoaL — Since  the  explorations  of  the  Russians,  coal  has  been  known 
at  many  points  in  the  peninsula  and  adjacent  islands,  one  of  the  most 
promising  localities  being  that  of  Herendeen  Bay,  on  the  northern 
shore  of  the  peninsula.  A  4-foot  coal  bed  was  opened  here  in  1890 
and  several  hundred  tons  of  the  mineral  were  taken  out;  but  after 
pushing  the  tunnel  for  200  or  300  feet,  the  coal  was  cut  off  by  a  fault 
and  persistent  search  failed  to  relocate  it.  Two  or  three  hundred  tons 
were  used  bj'^  the  U.  S.  S.  Albatross,  whose  engineer  reported  very 
encouragingly  on  its  steaming  qualities.  At  Anialik  Harbor,  east  of 
Katmai  Bay,  three  scjims  of  impure  coal,  each  about  18  inches  thick, 
are  known  to  exist,  and  other  beds  are  reported  on  the  Ugashik 
Lakes,  at  the  head  of  the  river  of  the  sjime  name.  On  the  west  shore 
of  Chignik  Bay  a  small  IG-iuch  seam  has  furnished  fuel  for  a  near-by 
cannery,  and  proves  to  have  very  satisfactory  steaming  qualities. 
At  Portage  Bay  and  at  Coal  Bay,  farther  west,  coal  is  also  reported. 
Mining  operations  have  been  carried  on  in  a  small  way  at  several 


ALASKA    PENINSULA    AND    ALEUTIAN    ISLANDS.  117 

localities  in  the  Shumagin  Islands,  but  the  coal  here  is  in  thin  beds 
and  proves  to  be  of  poor  quality.  On  the  Aleutian  Islands  proper 
there  have  been  no  developments,  but  coal  is  reported  on  TJnalaska 
and  on  one  or  two  of  the  other  islands.  Tertiary  rocks,  which  may 
carrj-  lignite,  occur  at  many  points  throughout  the  group. 

liontes  across  the  peninsula. — Three  routes  long  in  use  by  Eussian 
traders  and  Indians  converge  at  Katniai;  two  cross  the  peninsula  by 
way  of  Naknek  River  and  Lake,  and  one  by  way  of  Igagik  River  and 
Lake.  Farther  west  Herendeen  Bay,  an  arm  of  Port  Moller  on  the 
Bering  Sea  side,  is  connected  by  easy  portages  with  Pavlof  Bay  and 
Portage  Bay  on  the  south. 

Inhabitants  and  industries. — The  inhabitants  of  the  region  are  mostly 
Aleuts,  probably  belonging  to  the  Eskimo  race.  They  live  in  small 
villages  scattered  among  the  islands  and  hidden  in  the  numerous  bays. 
With  them  are  a  few  white  traders  and  miners  who  have  married 
native  women  in  order  to  avoid  the  law  prohibiting  all  except  natives 
or  white  men  with  native  wives  from  hunting  the  sea  otter.  Twenty 
years  ago  many  an  Aleut  hunter  lived  in  affluence  on  the  income 
derived  from  the  sale  of  sea-otter  pelts;  now  the  animal  is  very  scarce 
and  the  industry  has  about  disappeared;  but  in  recent  years  cod  and 
salmon  fisheries  have  become  more  important  and  bid  fair  to  restore 
in  a  measure  the  vanished  prosperity.  Bears,  foxes,  and  land  otters, 
and  in  places  on  the  peninsula  caribou,  are  important  sources  of  food 
and  income. 

A  few  Russian  priests  still  preside  in  their  districts,  and  the  little 
churches  are  a  source  of  much  pride  to  the  natives. 

Villages. — The  village  of  TJnalaska,  on  the  island  of  the  same  name, 
is  the  most  important  town  in  the  islands,  and  the  westernmost  post- 
office  in  the  United  States  has  been  established  here.  Belkovsky,  on 
the  peninsula,  was  formerly  of  much  importance  as  the  center  of  the 
sea-otter  trade,  but  has  declined  with  the  disappearance  of  this 
animal.     Unga,  Atka,  and  Attn  all  have  populations  of  100  or  more. 


LAKES    TLIAMNA   AND   CLARK, 


By  J.  E.  Spurr. 


These  two  lakes  are  the  largest  iu  Alaska,  Lake  Ilianina  being  half 
as  large  as  Lake  Ontario.  As  may  be  seen  on  the  map  (No.  1),  they 
have  the  same  general  trend  and  are  CHmuected  by  a  broad  river. 
They  are  drained  bj^  the  Kvichak,  which  is  not  navigable  for  steamers. 
These  lakes  are  surrounded  on  nearly  all  sides  by  high  mountains. 
Along  the  southeast  side  of  both  rise  the  volcanic  peaks  of  the  Chig- 
mit  Range,  of  w^hich  the  chief  are  Mounts  Iliamna  and  Redoubt.  The 
Iliamna  volcano  was  active  in  1778-79,  and  again  in  1876.  The  St. 
Augustine  volcano,  in  the  sea  near  by,  had  a  violent  eruption  in  1883, 
and  is  still  steaming.  North  of  Lake  Clark  rise  the  peaks  of  the 
Tordrillo  Range,  which  forms  the  Sushitna-Kuskokwim  divide. 

From  Kamishak  Bay  a  portage  route  extends  along  the  valley  of  a 
small  river  across  the  mountains  to  Lake  Iliamna.  By  another  gap 
in  the  mountains  the  inhabitants  of  Lake  Clark  cross  to  Cook  Inlet  at 
Kustatan. 

Lake  Iliamna  was  early  known  to  the  Russians,  but  Lake  Clark  was 
known  only  by  vague  rumors  until  1891,  when  Schanz  and  Clark 
visited  it  with  dog  sledges,  making  a  map  and  describing  the  inhabit- 
ants. 

Iliamna  Village,  on  the  lake  of  that  name,  is  populated  by  half- 
breed  Russian  Eskimos,  whose  progenitors  settled  here  from  the  Island 
of  Kadiak.  The  other  inhabitants  of  Lake  Iliamna  are  Eskimo  as  far 
^  the  Nogheliug  River,  while  the  inhabitants  of  Lake  Clark  are 
purely  Indian. 

A  trading  past  for  natives  has  been  maintained  for  some  time  at 
Iliamna  Village,  the  provisions  being  taken  over  the  portage  across  the 
Chigmit  Range.  Last  summer  some  prospecting  was  also  done  by 
people  who  reached  the  lake  by  the  same  route.  Lake  Clark,  on  the 
other  hand,  has  been  very  little  visited  by  white  men. 

118 


THE  NUSHAGAK  RIVEK 


By  J.  E.  Spurr. 

The  country  at  the  mouth  of  the  Nushagak  and  for  some  distauce  up 
is  very  flat,  while  the  upper  tributaries  run  through  a  mountainous 
country.  The  Xushagak  derives  most  of  its  water  from  the  large 
Tikchik  Lake  and  the  Mulchatna  Eiver,  which  heads  in  the  Tordrillo 
Range.  The  whole  valley  is  densely  wooded,  and  on  the  Mulchatna 
many  very  large  trees  are  found,  sometimes  over  3  feet  in  diameter. 

The  region  at  the  mouth  of  the  Jfushagak  was  early  visited  by 
Russians,  and  the  traders  and  priests  made  lon^  journeys  throughout 
the  surrounding  country,  of  which,  however,  little  record  exists.  As 
early  as  1890  prospectors  are  known  to  have  been  on  the  Mulchatna 
and  to  have  found  fine  gold.  In  1891  Schanz  and  Clark,  as  already 
noted,  ascended  the  Mulchatna  and  crossed  to  Lake  Clark.  The  same 
year  Greenfield  passed  from  the  Kuskokwim  to  Nushagak  by  the 
Holiknuk.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Nushagak  large  canneries  have  been 
established,  which  have  a  capacity  of  about  120,000  cases  of  salmon 
during  the  season  of  five  weeks.  There  is  a  central  trading  post  at 
Nushagak,  and  a  Moravian  and  a  Greek  mission.  The  valley  of  the 
Nushagak  and  its  tributaries  is  populated  by  Eskimos  of  the  ISTushagak 
type,  and  several  branch  trading  posts  are  found  here,  Avhich  are  sup- 
plied from  the  main  station. 

119 


THE  COAST   FROM   BRISTOL   BAY   TO  THE  YUKON. 


By  J.  E.  Spurr. 


Topography. — The  region  around  the  month  of  the  Kvichak  River, 
at  the  head  of  Bristol  Bay,  is  flat  and  swampy,  and  the  shores  are 
blnlVs  running  up  to  150  or  200  feet  in  height.  This  is  also  true  of  the 
shores  from  Nushagak  as  far  as  the  western  shore  of  Togiak  Bay.  At 
Cape  Newenham  the  mountains  which  form  the  divide  between  the 
Togiak  and  the  Kuskokwim  come  down  to  the  coast.  On  the  eastern 
shore  of  Kuskokwim  Bay  a  broad  strip  of  tundra,  growing  wider  to 
the  north,  separates  the  mountains  from  the  salt  water.  The  shore 
between  Kuskokwim  Bay  and  the  Y''ukon  delta  is  in  general  compara- 
tively low,  although  in  places  mountains  of  considerable  height  come 
down  to  the  sea,  especially  at  Cape  Vancouver  and  at  Cape  Dyer. 

Along  this  whole  coast  the  tides  are  very  great,  especially  in  the 
funnel-shaped  bays,  such  as  Nushagak  Bay,  Togiak  Bay,  and  Kus- 
kokwim Bay.  Since  the  water  in  the  vicinity  of  the  shore  is  very 
shallow  these  enormous  tides  leave  great  stretches  of  sand  flats  bare 
at  ebb  tide,  and  these  often  run  out  to  sea  5  or  10  miles  from  the 
actual  shore  line.  Outside  of  the  flats  are  shoals  which  are  never 
laid  quite  bare,  so  that  on  the  whole  the  coast  is  a  dangerous  one. 

Population. — The  entire  length  of  the  coast  line  is  fairly  well  popu- 
lated, and  all  the  people  belong  to  the  common  Eskimo  race,  although 
to  many  different  tribes.  Those  in  the  vicinity  of  Nushagak  are  some- 
what civilized  from  long  contact  with  the  Russians,  and  later  with 
Americans  brought  by  the  salmon-canning  industry.  Northwestw  ard, 
however,  the  population  becomes  more  primitive,  till  in  the  region 
between  the  Kuskokwim  and  the  Yukon,  and  especially  on  Nunivak 
Island,  they  are  reported  to  be  untouched  by  any  civilizing  influence 
whatever. 

Settlements. — The  head  of  Bristol  Bay  is  the  scene  of  a  great  salmon- 
canning  industry.  At  the  mouth  of  the  I^aknek  River,  at  Koggiung, 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Kvichak,  and  especially  around  Nushagak,  there 
are  large  canneries.  The  season  is  five  weeks  long,  and  the  region  of 
Nushagak  then  presents  a  very  busy  appearance.  In  the  month  of 
September,  however,  the  vessels  depart,  carrying  with  them  the  men 
employed,  together  with  the  salmon  which  have  been  put  up,  so  that 
during  the  winter  only  about  twenty  white  men  remain  on  Nushagak 
Bay. 

120 


COAST    FROM    BRISTOL    BAY    TO    THE    YUKON.  121 

At  Togiak,  on  Togiak  Bay,  there  is  a  half-breed  trader  who  main- 
tains a  station  for  the  natives. 

Kiiskokwim  Bay  is  navigable  for  sea-going  craft  only  for  a  few  miles 
north  of  Kwinhaganint,  and  from  this  point  the  provisions  have  to  be 
taken  np  as  far  as  Bethel  in  a  small  sloop. 

At  Tnnuuak,  on  Cape  Vancouver,  there  is  a  half-breed  Russian 
trader.  A  Catholic  mission  school  was  formerly  established  here,  but 
did  not  prove  successful. 

Pfibilof  Islands. — These  lie  some  distance  southwest  of  the  coiist 
which  has  been  described,  in  Bering  Sea,  and  were  discovered  by  the 
Eussiau,  Pribilof,  in  1776.  In  1869  the  islands  were  declared  a 
Government  I'eservation  and  a  company  of  soldiers  was  stationed  there. 
From  1870  to  1890  the  islands  were  leased  to  the  Alaska  Commercial 
Company,  having  become  very  valuable  on  account  of  the  immense 
number  of  seals  which  congregated  there  during  the  season.  During 
the  twenty  years  of  occupancy  this  company  paid  to  the  Government 
in  seal  taxes  nearly  $6,000,000.  Since  1890  the  North  American 
Commercial  Company  has  held  the  lease  at  a  higher  tax.  On  account 
of  being  so  assiduously  hunted  the  number  of  seals  obtained  has 
decreased  to  20,000  annually. 


THE    KUSKOKWIM    DRAINAGE  AREA. 


Bv  J.   E.  SlM'UK. 


The  Kuskokwiiu  River  is  described  at  gieiiter  leiij;tli  iu  the  special 
report  of  the  Kuskokwim  expedition  iu  Part  I  of  this  publicatiou 
(p.  28).  The  river  is  the  second  largest  iu  Ahiska,  and  the  largest 
whose  drainage  area  is  confined  to  the  Territory.  Its  length  is  about 
700  miles  to  its  chief  source  iu  the  Tordrillo  IMountains,  and  it  is 
navigal)le  for  steamers  for  about  T)?")  miles  above  Apokagamut  (near 
the  mouth). 

Topograph;!. — The  main  bi-auch  of  the  Kuskokwim  rises,  as  stated, 
in  the  picturesque  Tordrillo  Range,  while  the  east  fork  probably  heads 
close  to  the  McKinley  Mountains.  A  short  distance  after  leaving 
these  I'anges,  however,  the  two  chief  branches  unite  and  flow  through 
a  level  country  —  the  Kuskokwim  Flats.  The  river  keeps  mostly  to 
the  north  side  of  the  flats,  and  the  hills  beyond,  forming  the  divide 
between  the  Kuskokwim  and  the  Tanana  and  Yukon,  are  compara- 
tively low,  timbered,  and  r(mnde<l.  On  leaving  the  level  country,  the 
river  entei'S  a  <lefiuite  mountain  valley,  in  which  it  continues  until 
past  Kolmakof;  these  mountains  also  are  of  very  moderate  height. 
Below  Kolmakof  the  river  flows  through  the  tundra,  with  mountains 
in  the  distance,  especially  on  the  east. 

Routes. — ^The  route  from  the  Skwentna  to  the  Kuskokwim,  traversed 
by  the  United  States  Geological  Survey  party  in  1898,  is  described  in 
the  special  report  (p.  37).  It  is  also  likely  that  a  route  exists  from 
the  head  of  the  Yentna  to  the  East  Fork  of  the  Kuskokwim.  A  port- 
age trail,  well  known  to  natives,  leads  from  the  East  Fork  of  the 
Kuskokwim  to  the  Toclat  River,  a  tributary  of  the  Tanana.  From 
the  Tachatna  River,  which  joins  the  Kuskokwim  at  its  chief  south- 
ward bend,  there  are  portages  to  the  Nowikakat,  and  also  to  the 
Tlegon,  an  affluent  of  the  Innoko.  From  the  Kuskokwim  above  Kol- 
makof a  p«^rtage  to  Nushagak  is  by  way  of  the  Holiknuk  River  across 
to  the  XiLshagak  River  and  down  that  stream.  From  the  Kuskokwim 
about  80  miles  above  Bethel  a  water  route  with  a  few  short  portages 
reaches  the  Yukon  at  the  Holy  Cross  Mission.  A  route  from  Kwin- 
hagamut  and  Kuskokwim  Bay  to  Togiak  Lake  is  described  in  the 
special  report  above  referred  to.  Many  other  routes  are  known  to  the 
natives,  who  traverse  the  country  in  all  directions. 

Explorations. — In  1832  the  Russian  half-breed,  Lukeen,  crossed  to  the 
Kuskokwim  by  way  of  the  Nushagak  and  the  Holiknuk,  and  estab- 


TIIF,    KUSKOKWIM    DRAINAGE    AREA.  123 

lished  a  statiou  at  what  was  afterwards  called  Kolmakof.  The  same 
point  was  reached  by  Kolmakof  by  way  of  the  Kuskokwim  in  18;J6. 
The  Tapper  Kuskokwim  was  not  explored  prior  to  the  Geological  Survey 
expedition,  except  possibly  by  prospectors  who  have  left  no  record. 
The  portage  route  from  the  Kuskokwim  by  way  of  the  Holiknuk  and 
the  Xushagak  was  traversed  by  Greenfield  in  1891. 

Popnlatlon. — A  line  across  the  country  from  the  region  of  Kolmakof 
on  the  Kuskokwim  to  the  junction  of  Lakes  Clark  and  Iliamna  con- 
veniently divides  the  native  races.  Southwest  of  this  line  are  the 
Rskimo  tribes,  northeast  the  Indian  peoples.  The  latter  are  far  less 
numerous  than  the  Eskimos.  The  only  white  men  on  the  Kuskokwim 
in  1898  were  the  Moravian  missionaries  at  Bethel  and  one  or  two 
traders.  There  are  trading  stations  at  Vinasale,  at  Kolmakof,  and 
at  Bethel,  but  the  last  is  the  only  reliable  one.  Besides  the  mission  at 
Bethel,  there  are  branch  missions  at  Oknavigamut  and  Kwinhagamut. 

Besources. — The  Upper  Kuskokwim  produces  a  variety  of  valuable 
furs,  but  in  no  great  quantity,  owing  to  the  scarcity  both  of  game  and 
of  hunters.  The  lower  part  of  the  river  has  very  little  game,  but  a 
great  abundance  of  wild  fowl  in  season,  and  of  salmon,  of  which  no 
use  has  yet  been  made  beyond  feeding  the  native  population.  Some 
parts  of  this  region,  especially  the  Kuskokwim  Flats,  may  very  likely 
be  valuable  in  time  for  raising  the  hardy  cereals  and  live  stock.  There 
is  also  a  certain  amount  of  mineral  wealth  in  the  mountains  which  lie 
in  or  border  the  district. 


iniOM  THE  YUKON  MOUTH  TO  POINT  BARROW. 
By  J.  E.  Spurr. 


Topof/raph)/. — In  the  vicinity  of  St.  Michael  the  country  consists  of 
low,  bare  mountains  of  volcanic  origin.  These  same  hills  run  north- 
ward parallel  with  the  coast,  being  usually  of  only  trifling  height, 
although  at  a  distance  inland  some  peaks  become  probably  1,000  or 
1,500  feet  high.  Golovin  Bay,  on  the  north  side  of  Norton  Sound,  is 
shut  in  by  two  high  promontories,  Cape  Derby  and  Stony  Cape.  The 
head  of  Golovin  Bay  is  low,  and  from  here  a  portage  extends,  by  lakes 
and  rivers,  to  Grantley  Harbor.  This  is  the  best  harbor  in  northern 
waters  and  has  been  long  used  by  the  whaling  fleet.  The  whole  coast 
from  here  to  Cape  Prince  of  Wales  is  ordinarily  low  and  rocky,  and 
the  shore  from  Cape  Prince  of  Wales  to  Cape  Espenberg,  on  the  south- 
ern side  of  Kotzebue  Sound,  is  sandy.  On  Ivotzebue  Sound  the  moun- 
tains at  times  come  quite  down  to  the  shore,  especially  the  Mulgrave 
Hills  at  the  mouth  of  the  Noatak.  From  Cape  Krusenstern,  on  the 
north  shore  of  Kotzebue  Sound,  to  Cape  Lisburne,  the  coast  is  generally 
low  and  rocky,  with  sandy  intervals.  Point  Hope  is  a  long  sandy 
tongue  of  laud,  backed  by  steep  (^litfs  at  its  landward  end.  From  Cape 
Lisburne  to  Point  Barrow  the  coast  is  also  low  and  rocky,  Mith 
many  sandy  stretches. 

I'JuphiratioHfi. — The  Bering  Straits  were  first  passed  by  the  Russians 
in  1618,  and  again  by  Vitus  Bering,  in  the  Russian  service,  in  1728. 
Neither  saw  America.  Captain  Cook  in  1778  discovered  Cape  Prince 
of  Wales,  and  pushed  a  long  tlistance  northward  along  the  coast.  In 
1816  von  Kotzebue,  a  German  in  a  Russian  ship,  discovered  the  sound 
which  bears  his  name.  Since  that  time  many  exp<iditions  have  sailed 
along  these  shores,  especially  such  as  in  the  early  days  were  seeking  a 
northwest  passage,  or  those  which  later  were  engaged  in  Arctic 
exploration.  For  many  years  this  whole  coast  has  been  known  to 
whalers  and  to  Government  revenue  cutters.  In  the  winter  of  1897 
Lieutenants  Jarvis  and  Bertholf,  and  Dr.  Call,  of  the  Revenue  Marine 
Service,  made  a  remarkable  trip  with  dogs  and  reindeer  from  Cape 
Vancouver  to  Point  Barrow;'  while  two  mates  of  whalers  in  distress 
at  Point  Barrow,  Tilton,  and  Walker,  made  long  overland  trips,  the 
former  reaching  Katmai,  on  Shelikof  Straits,  and  the  latter,  by  way 
of  the  Arctic  coast  and  the  Mackenzie  mouth,  reaching  Edmonton,  on 

*  For  drtails  of  this  trip,  wliich  lack  of  space  compels  us  to  omit,  the  reader  is  referred  to  the 
forthcoming  report  by  the  Revenue  Cutter  Service  Department. 
1^ 


FROM  THE  YUKON  MOUTH  TO  POINT  BAKKOW.      125 

the  Canadiiiu  Pacitic.  Last  summer  many  prospectors  were  in 
Kotzebiie  and  Norton  sounds. 

Norton  Sound. — St.  Michael  is  an  ancient  and  well-known  trading 
post  and  requires  no  mention.  The  country  within  a  considerable 
radius  of  St.  Michael  has  been  reserved  for  military  purposes  by  the 
Government.  There  is  a  tradiujif  post  of  the  Alaska  Commercial 
Company  at  Unalaklik,  and  there  are  missions  of  the  Swedish 
Evangelical  Church  at  Unalaklik,  at  Kangekosook,  and  at  Golovin 
Bay. 

Gold  was  long  ago  reported  on  the  Fish  Eiver,  which  heads  in 
Golovin  Bay,  but  no  mining  was  attempted.  On  the  same  river  30 
miles  above  the  mouth  the  Oouilak  mine  of  silver-bearing  galena  was 
discovered  long  ago  and  the  Golovin  Bay  Mining  Company,  of  San 
Francisco,  formed  to  work  it.  There  was  ditticulty,  however,  in  get- 
ting the  ore  down  the  shallow  river  to  the  vessel  which  took  it  to  San 
Francisco;  and,  in  addition  to  this,  two  vessels  with  all  on  board  were 
lost  by  the  company  previous  to  1885.  In  1890  operations  were  sus- 
pended, owing  to  the  report  of  experts  that  there  was  no  coutinnous 
vein;  but  in  1891  work  was  renewed.  The  overflow  of  the  Klondike 
rush  turned  prospectors  into  Golovin  Bay,  and  in  the  summer  of 
1898  many  claims  were  located  on  the  Fish  River  and  other  streams 
in  the  district.  The  gold  is  said  to  be  fine,  but  of  high  grade,  and  to 
be  ea^y  of  access;  and  it  is  reported  that  there  is  plenty  of  water  for 
sluicing.  There  were  300  or  400  people  on  Golovin  Bay  last  summer, 
and  last  winter  probably  200  prospectors  spent  the  winter  on  the 
peninsula  between  Kotzebue  and  Norton  sounds. 

St.  Lawrence  Island. — St.  Lawrence  is  a  large  island  off  Norton 
Sound,  south  of  Bering  Straits.  It  is  comparatively  barren,  and  is 
inhabited  only  by  natives,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  Presbyterian 
missionaries. 

Cape  Prince  of  ^Wilea  and  vicinity. — At  Port  Clarence,  already  men- 
tioned on  account  of  its  splendid  harbor,  is  the  Teller  reindeer  station, 
established  by  the  Government  in  1892  through  the  efforts  of  Dr. 
Sheldon  Jackson,  Mr,  William  A.  Kjellnian  is  the  principal  super- 
intendent, and  there  are  a  number  of  herders  imported  from  Lap- 
land, There  is  also  a  reindeer  station  at  Cape  Nome,  on  Norton 
Sound.  The  herd  increases  very  slowly,  and  a  large  part  of  it  was 
driven  to  Point  Barrow  in  1897  to  relieve  the  distressed  whalers. 
Capo  Prince  of  Wales,  the  westernmost  point  of  the  American  main- 
land, is  a  bob!  promontory.  Here  is  the  Congregational  mission  of 
the  American  Missionary  Society,  in  charge  of  W.  T.  Lopp,  and  a 
village  of  500  or  600  Eskimos. 

Kotzebve  Sound. — At  Kiktarak,  north  of  Cape  Blossom  on  Kotzebue 
Sound,  there  is  a  Quaker  mission.  The  "Fort  Morton"  appearing 
on  the  maps  does  not  exist  and  never  has  existed.     Near  Chamisso 


126  MAI'S  A\P  nEsciiirrioNs  ok  Alaska. 

Islaiiti,  on  th«'  inaiiilaiHl,  llicre  is  a  small  Iradinji'  jxist  for  natives. 
Kotzchuf  Sonnd,  as  already  noted,  was  early  visited  by  explorers,  and 
the  iee  elilVs,  especially  those  in  tlie  vicinity  of  Elephiint  Point,  where 
the  iee  plays  the  j)art  ol"  a  <;eolo^ie  formation,  liave  been  described  by 
many  writers.  The  region  has  a  fairly  nnmerons  native  population, 
who  s])eak  the  l']skimo  tongue.  On  the  north  shore,  however, 
betweiMi  Caiic  Krnsenstern  and  ("ape  Sep]>inf2^,  there  are  no  natives. 
In  the  country  between  Norton  Hay  and  Ksehscholt/  Bay  there  are 
also  no  inhabitants,  althoui,di  a  village — Attemut — has  been  repre- 
sented on  maps. 

During  the  summer  of  1.S98  discouraging  reports  from  the  Klon- 
dike reaching  the  west  coast,  many  prospectors  turned  their  attention 
to  unknown  parts  of  the  Territory,  and  a  hirge  number  poured  into 
Kot/.ebue  Sound.  Probably  a  thousand  men  prospected  there  during 
the  summer,  ascending  also  the  various  rivers  which  empty  into  the 
sound.  So  far  as  learned,  however,  no  one  had  any  luck,  although 
tine  gold  exists  on  some  of  the  streams;  the  conclusion  was  reached  by 
most,  therefore,  that  the  region  is  worthless  as  a  gold-mining  country. 

Point  Hope  to  Point  Barrow. — At  Point  Plope  there  is  an  Episcopal 
mission,  and  between  Point  Hope  and  Point  Barrow  are  several  w'hal- 
ing  stations,  the  principal  one  15  miles  east  of  Point  Hope  and  owned 
by  Liebes  &  Company,  of  San  Francisco.  Between  Cape  Lisburne 
and  Cape  Sepping  there  are  occasionally  small  Eskimo  villages,  and 
around  the  mission  at  Point  Hope  there  is  a  large  village.  Between 
Icy  Cape  and  Cape  Lisburne  there  are  no  natives,  and  very  few 
between  Icy  Cape  and  Point  Barrow.  At  Cape  Beaufort,  and  in 
many  places  thence  northward  to  Point  Belcher,  coal  of  good  quality, 
probably  belonging  to  the  Carboniferous  period,  has  been  reported. 
The  climate  along  here  is  extremely  bleak,  large  packs  of  floating  ice 
being  in  the  sea  all  summer.  At  Point  Barrow  and  at  Point  Hope 
the  lowest  winter  temperature  is  only  about  30°  below"  zero,  while  at 
Point  Hope  the  average  winter  temperature  is  15°  below  zero.  At 
Point  Barrow  there  is  a  Government  relief  station,  designed  princi- 
pally for  whalers. 


THE  KOWAK  EIVEE. 


By  J.  E.  Spurr. 


The  word  Kowak  seems  to  be  a  corruption  of  the  native  pronun- 
ciation, which  is  more  nearly  Kubuk  or  Kuvuk,  the  word  meaning 
great  river,  and  being  the  same  as  the  Eskimo  name  for  the  Yukon, 
KivikpaJc,  although  in  a  different  dialect,  and  also  the  same  as  the 
Kookpuk,  which  enters  the  Arctic  above  Point  Hope.  The  Kowak 
River  was  partly  ascended  by  Lieut.  John  C.  Cantwell,  U.  S.  R.  M., 
in  1884,  in  a  small  boat,  and  more  successfully  the  following  year, 
when  a  steam  launch  was  used  to  carry  the  party  up  the  lower  part  of 
the  river.  At  about  the  same  time  Lieutenant  Stoney,  U.  S.  N".,  also 
explored  the  Kowak.  The  report  of  the  latter  officer  is  not  yet 
available,  so  that  most  of  our  knowledge  of  the  river  comes  from 
Cantwell 's  report.^  According  to  this  report,  in  twelve  days  from  the 
mouth  the  head  of  boat  navigation — a  narrow  canyon,  filled  with 
sharp- pointed  rocks  over  which  a  rapid  current  flowed — was  reached. 
Above  this  point  the  journey  was  made  in  a  skin  boat.  N^ear  the  head 
the  river  splits  into  two  branches,  one  coming  from  a  lake,  while  the 
other  rises  in  mountains  across  which  a  portage  leads  to  the  Koyukuk . 
This  route  is  that  always  used  by  the  Kowak  Indians  when  going  to 
the  Koyukuk  to  trade. 

Near  the  mouth  of  the  river  a  short  range  of  mountains  separates 
the  Kowak  from  the  north  branch  of  the  Selawik.  Above  this  for 
hundreds  of  miles  the  river  flows  in  intricate  channels  with  many 
sand  bars,  while  on  both  sides  is  low,  rolling  tundra.  Farther  up  the 
timber  becomes  plentiful,  and  then  the  tundra  is  succeeded  by  the 
mountains,  where  the  head  of  boat  navigation  is  reached.  ,  Above  this 
the  skin  boat  had  to  be  towed.  The  shores  were  very  rocky,  with 
forests  of  spruce,  pine,  birch,  and  balm  of  Gilead.  Between  the 
Kowak  and  the  Noatak  the  country  is  very  mountainous,  with 
numerous  deep  lakes  and  small  rivers. 

As  reported  by  Lieutenant  Cantwell,  the  climate  of  the  Kowak 
region  is  remarkable  for  its  extremes.  In  the  middle  of  July  the 
temperature  rose  by  day  as  high  as  96°  in  the  shade,  and  seldom  fell 
below  88°.  On  the  .Slst  of  July  it  Avas  noted  that  the  mosquitoes  were 
still  terribly  annoying,  while  on  the  8th  of  August  the  mountains  were 
snow-covered  and  there  were  heavy  frosts  at  night,  after  which  time 

'  Cruise  of  the  Convin  in  the  Year  1885,  Washington,  Goyemment  Printing  Office,  1887. 
9-Alaska.  127 


128  MAI'S    AND    DESCRIPTIONS    OF    ALASKA. 

there  wius  an  iniich  hardship  fnmi  the  cold  as  there  had  been  pre- 
viously from  llie  heat. 

Along  most  of  the  route  game,  fish,  and  berries  were  comparatively 
abundant,  and  there  were  many  fresh  signs  of  bear,  porcupine,  and 
deer.  Not  far  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  seams  of  impure  clayey 
coal  Avere  observed;  and  similar  liguitic  coal,  but  of  finer  quality,  was 
brought  by  the  Indians  from  several  of  the  tributaries.  A  remarkable 
feature  of  the  Kowak  is  the  ice  cliffs,  described  by  Cantwell.  These 
border  the  river,  rising  from  it  steeply  for  many  feet,  and  are  com- 
posed of  pure,  hard  ice,  on  top  of  which  is  a  greater  or  less  thickness 
of  clays  and  silts,  which  in  turn  support  a  growth  of  trees  and  shrubs. 
The  ice,  therefore,  appears  to  play  the  part  of  a  geologic  formation. 
Similar  ice  cliffs  were  early  reported  from  Elephant  Point  in 
Eschscholtz  Bay,  and  what  appears  to  be  the  same  phenomenon  has 
been  personally  described  to  the  writer  by  Lieut.  E.  P.  Bertholf  as 
occurring  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kookpuk  Eiver,  north  of  Point  Hope. 

CantwelPs  party  reports  having  found  colors  of  gold  in  nearly 
every  part  of  the  Kowak.  Last  summer  (1898)  many  of  the  pros- 
pectors who  sailed  for  Kotzebue  Sound  attempted  to  explore  the 
Kowak,  but,  so  far  as  known,  with  no  great  success.  A  number  of 
steamers  started  up  the  river,  but  on  account  of  the  low  water  the 
ftirthest  point  reached  was  about  125  miles  from  the  coast.  N^o  well- 
authenticated  finds  of  gold  have  been  reported. 


THE  NOATAK  RIVEE. 


By  J.  E.  Spurr. 


Hotham  Inlet  was  first  explored  and  named  by  Captain  Beechey, 
R.  N.,  in  1825.  In  1849  the  mouth  of  the  Noatak  was  observed  by 
H.  M.  S.  Herald,  and  was  reported  as  being  unnavigable  for  any  dis- 
tance, even  for  ship's  boats.  The  river  itself,  so  far  as  known,  was 
first  explored  by  white  men  in  1885,  in  which  year  S.  B.  McLenegan, 
of  the  Revenue  Marine  Service,  was  sent  out  to  explore  it,  and  suc- 
ceeded in  ascending  nearly  to  the  head. 

Near  its  mouth  the  Noatak  cuts  through  the  Mulgrave  Hills,  but 
just  before  entering  the  inlet  the  river  forms  a  delta  and  divides  into 
two  branches,  which  are  about  equal  in  volume.  Back  of  the  moun- 
tains the  river  runs  through  a  flat  country,  in  which  it  divides  into 
many  channels.  Here  the  valley  is  bounded  on  both  sides  by  parallel 
ranges  of  hills  about  10  miles  distant,  which  farther  upstream  become 
higher;  at  the  same  time  the  valley  becomes  narrower,  till  the  river 
runs  in  deep  gorges  or  canyons.  Above  this  region  a  beautiful  moun- 
tain valley,  3  to  5  miles  in  width,  is  again  found;  and  still  higher, 
around  the  head  of  the  river,  is  an  elevated  plateau  with  occasional 
hills  and  vast  tracts  of  swamp.  This  upper  region  is  full  of  lakes, 
but  bears  no  timber  of  any  description. 

The  journey  by  Mr.  McLenegan  up  the  Noatak  lasted  from  the  2d 
of  July  until  about  the  31st,  the  trip  being  made  in  a  3-hatch  bidarky, 
or  skin  boat.  Frequent  rains  and  floods  made  traveling  difficult,  and 
the  moorlands  at  the  head  of  the  river  were  reported  at  the  end  of 
July  as  a  scene  of  utter  desolation,  being  without  life  and  covered  with 
snow  and  water.  The  general  current  of  the  river  is  reported  to  be 
10  to  12  miles  an  hour. 

The  people  inhabiting  the  Noatak  Valley  are  Eskimos,  and  were 
estimated  by  McLenegan  to  be  about  225  in  number.  There  are 
several  native  routes  between  the  Kowak  and  the  J^oatak,  and  proba- 
bly also  between  the  I^oatak  and  the  Koyukuk.  ]S^o  coal  was  seen 
along  the  river,  and  no  gold.  Tools  of  jade  were  in  use  by  the  natives, 
and  it  was  supposed  that  this  mineral  came  from  the  mountains 
near  by. 

In  1898  a  party  of  prospectors  ascended  the  Noatak  in  rowboats 
250  miles  in  twenty-seven  days,  returning  in  thirty  hours.  They 
found  no  gold.  Many  wild  berries,  especially  currants,  were  reported 
along  the  route,  and  many  waterfowl  and  ptarmigan,  l>ut  there  were 
no  signs  of  large  game. 

139 


THE  (^OAST  FROM  POINT  BARROW  TO  THE  MACKENZIE. 


By  Alfred  H.  Brooks. 


On  tlu'  north  Alaska  is  bounded  by  the  bleak  Arctic  coast,  which 
tor  ten  months  in  the  year  is  locked  in  ice.  The  coast  line  is  com- 
panitively  even,  but  is  broken  here  and  there  by  the  deep  embay- 
ments  which  mark  the  mouths  of  the  larger  rivers.  Shallow  water  is 
usually  found  near  the  coast,  and  sand  bars  and  reefs  are  numerous. 
From  the  international  boundary  westward  to  Poiut  Barrow  stretches 
a  low  tundra  plain,  covered  with  moss  and  scant  grass,  and  dotted 
with  numerous  lakes.  Through  this  plain  meander  sluggish  streams 
and  rivers.  During  the  short  summer  this  tundra  belt  is  little  more 
than  a  marsh .  Near  the  stream  banks  are  found  a  few  stunted  alders 
and  willows,  but  elsewhere  the  coast  is  devoid  even  of  these  low 
shrubs.  To  the  south  the  plain  merges  into  a  rolling  country,  also 
moss  covered,  and  beyond  these  foothills  is  a  mountain  range  which 
separates  the  North  Arctic  drainage  from  the  rivers  of  Bering  Sea 
and  Kotzebue  Sound.  At  the  international  boundary  this  range  is  but 
a  few  miles  from  the  coast,  with  elevations  of  4,000  to  7,000  feet,  but 
in  its  western  extension  it  recedes  rapidly  from  the  shore  line,  and 
decreases  in  elevation,  so  that  opposite  Point  Barrow  it  is  150  miles 
inland  and  has  an  elevation  of  from  3,000  to  4,000  feet.  The  region 
is  drained  by  numerous  rivers,  but  only  a  few  of  these  have  been 
visited  by  white  men.  Turner  River  was  discovered  and  approxi- 
mately mapped  by  Mr.  Turner;  the  Colville  and  the  Ikpikpung  are 
known  through  the  investigations  of  Lieutenant  Howard;  and  Lieu- 
tenant Rjiy  mapped  the  lower  course  of  the  Mead  River. 

'  Thie  brief  summarj'  is  based  on  the  following  publications,  to  which  the  reader  is  referred  for 
further  information: 

Voyage  from  Montreal  on  the  River  St.  Lawrence  through  the  Continent  of  North  America  to 
the  Frozen  and  Pacific  Oceans,  in  the  Years  1789  and  1793,  by  Sir  Alexander  Mackenzie;  Piiila- 
delphia,  1802. 

Narrative  of  a  Second  Expedition  to  the  Shores  of  the  Polar  Sea  in  the  Years  1825,  1826,  and  1827, 
by  John  Franklin:  Philadelphia,  1828. 

Narrative  of  the  Discoveries  on  the  North  Coast  of  America  effected  by  the  OflScers  of  the  Hudson 
Bay  Company  during  the  Years  1836  and  1839,  by  Thomas  Simpson;  London,  1813. 

Narrative  of  the  Voyage  of  the  Blossom  to  the  Pacific  and  Bering  Straits,  by  Capt.  F.  W. 
Beechey,  London,  1831. 

A  Personal  Narrative  of  the  Discovery  of  the  Northwest  Passage,  by  Alexander  Armstrong; 
London,  1K")7. 

Alaska  and  its  Resources,  by  William  H.  Dall,  1870. 

Report  of  the  International  Polar  Expedition  to  Point  Barrow,  1881-1883,  by  Lieut.  P.  H.  Ray. 

Report  of  J.  H.  Turner;  United  States  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey,  Part  I,  1891,  p.  87. 

Lieutenants  Stoney  and  Howard's  reports  have  unfortunately  not  been  published.  A  map  of  the 
region  they  explored,  which  embodies  their  work,  was  published  by  A.  L.  McDonald  at  San  FVan- 

cisco  in  1 8*.>8. 
130 


COAST    FROM    POINT    BARROW    TO    THE    MACKENZIE.  131 

Strauii^ely  euouf^^h,  this  north  coast  of  Ahiska  was  explored  long 
before  some  of  the  more  accessible  parts  of  the  Territory  were.  As 
early  as  1789  Mackenzie  reached  the  Arctic  Ocean  at  the  mouth  of  the 
great  river  which  besirs  his  name.  In  1826  a  boat  expedition  in 
charge  of  Mr.  Elson,  sent  out  by  Capt.  F.  W.  Beechey,  of  H.  M,  S. 
Blossom,  reached  Point  Barrow,  and  the  same  year  Sir  John  Franklin 
pushed  his  way  westward  from  the  mouth  of  the  Mackenzie  to  Return 
Eeef,  where  he  was  stopped  by  the  ice.  It  remained  for  Peter  Warren 
Dease  and  Thomas  Simpson  to  complete  this  line  of  exploration  some 
ten  years  later.  These  men  went  westward  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Mackenzie  and  were  stopped  by  the  ice;  but  Simpson  continued  on 
foot  and  in  native  boats,  and  on  August  4,  1837,  reached  Point  Barrow. 
The  activity  in  Arc^tic  exploration  which  followed  the  disappearance 
of  the  Sir  John  Franklin  expedition  resulted  in  a  better  knowledge  of 
this  region,  because  of  the  numerous  vessels  which  passed  its  shores. 
Important  among  these  was  H.  M.  S.  Investigator,  whose  crew  was  the 
first  to  make  the  ISTorthwest  Passage. 

Since  these  early  expeditions  but  little  exploration  has  been  done 
on  this  north  coast.  The  Signal  Service  maintained  a  station  at  Point 
Barrow  from  1881  to  1883,  in  charge  of  Lieut.  P.  H.  Ray,  and  in  the 
spring  of  1886  Lieut.  W.  C.  Howard,  U.  S.  N.,  left  Lieut.  G.  M. 
Stoney's  winter  camp  on  the  Kowak  and,  with  one  white  man  and 
several  natives,  made  the  long  trip  to  Point  Barrow.  Mr.  Turner's 
trip  from  the  Porcupine  River  to  the  Arctic  coast  along  the  inter- 
national boundary,  made  in  1890,  is  described  in  the  account  of  the 
Yukon  district  (p.  88). 

A  relief  station  for  the  benefit  of  whalers  and  a  mission  school  are 
now  maintained  at  ^  Point  Barrow  and  are  annually  visited  by  the 
vessels  of  the  United  States  Revenue  Service.  The  Pacific  Steam 
Whaling  Company  also  maintains  a  station  at  Herschel  Island,  to 
which  a  vessel  is  sent  every  year.  The  Eskimos  have  settlements  at 
Point  Barrow  near  the  Colville  River,  and  at  Herschel  Island  and 
adjacent  portions  of  the  mainland.  They  depend  on  the  abundant 
driftwood  for  fuel,  and  on  the  products  of  the  sea  and  the  wild  rein- 
deer (caribou)  for  food.  The  reindeer  migrate  northward  in  the 
spring  and  return  to  the  mountains  in  the  more  southern  parts  of  the 
Territory  in  the  fall.  The  natives  of  the  interior  are  said  to  make 
annual  visits  to  the  coast  for  trading  purposes,  following  the  reindeer 
northward  and  returning  with  them  to  the  mountains  again  in  the  fall. 

In  1848  the  American  whaler  Superior,  commanded  by  Captain 
Roys,  ventured  through  the  Bering  Straits,  and  this  example  was  fol- 
lowed by  many  in  the  succeeding  years.  Since  then  the  Arctic  Ocean 
is  visited  ever  summer  by  numerous  vessels  employed  in  whaling, 
which  pursue  their  calling  close  to  the  ice  pack,  and  frequently  are 
forced  to  spend  the  winter  in  this  inhospitable  region. 


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134 


MAPS    AND    DESCRIPTIONS    OF   ALASKA. 


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136 


MAPS    AND    DESCRIPTIONS    OF    ALASKA. 


PERIODS     DURING     WHICH     CERTAIN     ALASKAN     WATERS    ARE    FREE 

FROM   ICE. 


Elver. 


Time  of  ice  breaking. 


Time  of  final  freezing. 


Yukon: 


Lakes  on  Lewes . . 
Miles  Canyon  . . . 
Mouth  of  Tanana. 


Russian  Mission. 


Port  of  St.  Michael 

Stikine 

Copper 

Sushitna 

Matanuska 


About  June  1,  1898.. 
AboutApril  26,  185)8. 


May  23  (average  of 
twelve  years;  ex- 
tremes, May  15 
and  June  5). 

May  22,  earliest ; 
generally  last 
week  in  June. 

April  28,  1898 

May  10  (average) . . . . 

May  20,  1898 

Middle  of  May 


About  Oct.  5,  1898. 


Oct.  12,  1898,  Oct.  1, 
1897  (exception- 
ally early). 

Nov.  4  (average  of 
five  years ;  ex- 
tremes, Oct.  30 
and  Nov.  10). 

About  Oct.  15. 


About  Oct.  30. 


Generally  in   Octo- 
ber. 


REPORT  OF  POSTAL  SERVICE  IN  OPERATION  IN  ALASKA,  MARCH  1,  1899. 

Postal  routes. 

STEAMBOAT  SERVICE. 


Ap- 
proxi- 
mate 
length 

No.  of 
route. 

From— 

To- 

Number  of 
round  trips. 

GflBces  supplied. 

miles. 

78,(»4 

San  Francisco,  Cal . . 

Dawson,  Canada  . . 

4,408 

3      during 
summer. 

Unalaska,     St. 
Michael,  Cir- 
cle,   and    all 
Yukon  River 

points. 

78,085 

Seattle.  Wash 

Dyea,  Alaska 

1,000 

2  a  month... 

Pkagway. 

78,086 

Juneau,  Alaska 

Kadiak,  Alaska 

1,150 

2  a  month, 
April   to 
Oct. 

Sitka,  Yakutat, 
Orca,    Seldo- 
via,  Tyonek. 

78,087 

Seldovia,  Alaska 

Tyonek,  Alaska — 

110 

2  a  month. 
May     to 
Oct. 

Sunrise   (when 
steamer  lands). 

78,088 

Sitka,  Alaska 

Unalaska,  Alaska. . 

1,G36 

1  a  month 
for     five 
m  o  nths, 
Nov.     to 
March. 

Y'akutat,     Nu- 
chek  (n.  o.), 
Orca.  Valdez, 
Seldovia,  Ka- 
diak, Karluk, 
Sandpoint, 
Unga,Belkof- 

ski  (n.  o. ). 

78,089 

Juneau,  Alaska 

Skagway,  Alaska. . 

106 

3  a  week 

Haines.  Dyea. 

78,093 

Seattle,  Wash 

Skagway,  Alaska . . 

1,012 

2  a  month 
or  oft«n- 
er;    usu- 
ally 6  to 
7. 

PortTownsend, 
Mary  Island, 
Sax  man, 
Ketchikan, 
Fort     Wran- 
gell.  Juneau, 
Skagway. 

POSTAL    SERVICE    IN    OPERATION. 

Postal  routes — Continued. 

STEAMBOAT  SERVICE— Continued. 


137 


No.  of 
route. 

From— 

To- 

Ap- 
proxi- 
mate 
length 

in 
miles. 

Number  of 
round  trips. 

Offices  supplied. 

78,094 

Seattle,  Wash 

Dyea,  Alaska 

1,043 

2  a  month . . . 

Mary  Island, 

Metlakahtla, 
Fort  Wran- 
gell,  Juneau, 
Skagway. 

Mary  Island, 
S  a  X  m  a  n  , 
Ketchikan, 
Fort  Wran- 
gell,  Juneau, 
Skagway. 

Unalaska,  St. 
Michael,  Cir- 
cle, and  all 
Yukon  River 
points. 

Orca. 

Yakutat.Seldo- 
via,    Kadiak, 
Karluk, Sand- 
point,  Unga. 

78,095 

Seattle,  Wash 

Dyea,  Alaska 

1,022 

2  a  month . . . 

78,097 

Seattle,  Wash 

Dawson,  Canada.. 

4,018 

3  trips  dur- 
ing sum- 
mer. 

78,099 
78,100 

Valdez,  Alaska 

Sitka,  Alaska 

Nuehek,  Alaska  . . . 
Unalaska,  Alaska . 

120 
1,526 

2  a  month, 
April  1  to 
Oct.  31. 

1  a  month, 
April  1  to 
Oct.  31 
each  year. 

STAR  SERVICE. 


78,101 

Fort   Wrangell, 
Alaska. 

Jackson,  Alaska. . . 

195 

20  a  year 

Shakan,    Kla- 
wock. 

78,104 

Ketchikan,  Alaska  . . 

Loring,  Alaska .... 

22 

2  a  month. .. 

78,105 

Juneau,  Alaska 

Tanana,  Alaska.... 

1,276 

2  a  month . . . 

Dyea,    Sheep 
Camp,    Daw- 
son,     Foi-ty- 
mile.    Eagle, 
Star,    Circle, 
Rampart. 

78,106 

St.  Michael,  Alaska. . 

Tanana,  Alaska  . . . 

900(?) 

1  a  month . . . 

Kutlik  (n.   0.), 
K  o  s  e  r  ef  sky 
(n.    0.),    An- 
vik,     Nulato 
(n.  o.),  Koyu-    | 
kuk,  Nowika- 
kat  (n.  0.) 

78,107 
78,108 

Metlakahtla,  Alaska. 
Chilkat,  Alaska 

15 

1  a  week. . . . 

Haines,  Alaska     . . 

2 

1  a  week .... 

» 

Post-offices  established. 


Anvik. 

Chilkat. 

Circle. 

Douglas. 

Dyea. 

Eagle. 

Fort  Wrangell. 

Haines. 

Homer. 

Hope.  ^ 

Jackson. 


Juneau. 

Karluk. 

Kenai.  ^ 

Ketchikan. 

Killisnoo. 

Klawock. 

Kodiak. 

Koyukuk. 

Kuthk.i 

Loring. 

Mary  Island. 


Metlakahtla. 

Nowikakat.  ^ 

Orca. 

Peavy.  ^ 

Rampart. 

St.  Michael. 

Sandpoint. 

Saxman. 

Seldovia. 

Shakan. 

Sheep  Camp. 


Sitka. 

Skagway. 

Star. 

Sumdum. 

Tanana. 

Tyonek. 

Unalaska. 

Unga. 

Yakutat. 

Yukon.  ^ 


Postmasters  not  commissioned. 


138 


M.\l»8    AND    DESORIPTIONS    <>F    ALASKA. 


UNITED   HTATEH    LAND   OFFICES. 

United  States  locsvl  land  ofticew  have  been  estiibliahed  in  Alaska  at 
Circle  City,  Pejivy,  Sitka,  and  We^ire,  but  aH  yet  (Mar.  13,  1899)  the 
only  oflice  opeu  for  businevsa  is  at  Sitka. 

GOM)    PRODUCTION    OF    ALASKA,    HY    DISTliK VPS.' 


Districts. 

1896. 

1897. 

1896. 

Admiralty,  Douglas,  and 

Unga  i.slands. 
Juneau        

SI. 370,861. 65 

$1,238,082'* 

86.300 
225,000 
185,000 

31,890 

17,000 
191,300 

15,000 
400,000 

50,000 

Figures  not 
recei  ved, 
but  total 
gold     pro- 
duction es- 
timated as 
about — 

SilviT  Bow  Basin 

Korntr.s  Bav     

241,273.73 
160,000.00 

90,171.23 

39,000.00 
120.000.00 

15,000.00 
800,000.00 

25,000.00 

Suuulum 

Ijituva  13av         

Cook  Inlet 

Norton  Sound 

Yukon  River 

Territorial 

Totals 

§2,861,306.61 

$2,439,572 

$2,839,572 

>  Taken  from  reports  of  the  Director  of  the  Mint.  »  Douglas  and  Unga. 

Wells,  Fargo  &  Co.  estimate  the  total  gold  production  of  Alaska  for 
1898  as  $3,321,491. 


RATION    LIST    ADOPTED    BY    J.    E.    SPURR. 

(For  one  man  one  month.) 

Farinaceous  food  (three-quarters  flour) 

Meats  and  fatty  foods  (chiefly  bacon) 

Nitrogeneous  food  (three-quarters  beans) 

Sugar 

Tea 

Dried  fruits  and  vegetables  (three-quarters  dried  fruits). . 

Baking  powder  (1  lb.  to  each  35  lbs.  of  flour) about 

Salt 


Pounds. 

38i 
28 


Total about 


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